I have just inherited a Ping 85029 Putter. The hosel is in fine condition. The problem is the shaft has some rust spots on it. If I send this putter to Ping in Arizona and have them reshaft and regrip the putter does anyone know approximately how much I will decrease the $300.00 current book collectors value. Thank you, Vivian
Vivian: I’m not an expert, but I have read that you cannot change ANYTHING on a collector club. If you do, it will diminish it’s value and collectability to any collector. It will be a non contender. While you can try to remove the rust spots with oil, WD40, or something that will not mar the shaft, do not use any abrasive material on the shaft. Good luck. — Michael J. MacMahon Captain (ret.) KCPD Golf is not a matter of Life or Death; it is MUCH more important than that.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have just inherited a Ping 85029 Putter. The hosel is in fine condition. The problem is the shaft has some rust spots on it. If I send this putter to Ping in Arizona and have them reshaft and regrip the putter does anyone know approximately how much I will decrease the $300.00 current book collectors value. Thank you, Vivian
Good luck and I know you’ll enjoy your new tool. :) JesterX
When and if I get it.Thanks for your input.
A word of caution, check out the thead on "forgiving putter." After a relatively brief period of trying the Two-Ball and others similar to it, I bought a Rossa Monza a few months ago. I loved the alignment help and I thought a face-balanced putter (like the Two Ball) would smooth out my stroke. As it turns out, I have an inside-square-inside stroke and the face balanced Monza produced a pretty distinct tendancy to leave the ball out to the right. This wan’t immediately apparent in the golf shop putting of plastic but was consistent over several rounds out on the golf course and on the practice green. I’ve since learned that this type of putter favors those with a true straight back-straight thru pendulum putting stroke. I seem to be better of with a more traditional shape (Ping Anser, Cameron Newport) and I’ve made the switch back, sadder, poorer and (maybe) wiser. YMMV Jeff – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Good luck and I know you’ll enjoy your new tool. :) JesterX When and if I get it.Thanks for your input.
had my putter regripped yesterday.while there tried 2 ball model.felt hard to miss with it?who has it? do you love it?
Yes – I have the Odyssey DXF model 2-ball putter, and it’s been in my bag since April. I like it very much – the face insert has a nice soft feel when the ball is struck, and the overall weight and grip are very pleasing. It replaced my Ping B60, which I had used for about five years, so I don’t replace putters often. I have heard some disparaging remarks about how the two-ball concept doesn’t necessarily improve aim, and that some owners have added a straight line across the top to help their alignment, but I haven’t felt any need to do so myself. I’m really happy with this putter…..
which shaft?
had my putter regripped yesterday.while there tried 2 ball model.felt hard to miss with it?who has it? do you love it?
I’ve had my 2 ball putter for about 3 weeks now and absolutely love it! My confidence in putting before getting this new club was high mind you, so that wasn’t the reason I doled out the bucks for this new model. There were several reasons (which I won’t bore you with) but the end result is a putter that "feels like butta" when I stroke the ball. The style I purchased was the 35" RH White Hot with the double bend shaft. I tried out the center shafted model, but the double bend suits my straight back and straight through style better. If you have a tendency to arc your swing, the center shaft would probably be the better bet. On the alignment issue…ie, drawing a line through the two balls for a better visual…I found that to be unnecessary in my case. I’m one of those that always lines up the logo to my intended line and that procedure still works great with this putter. Good luck and I know you’ll enjoy your new tool. :) JesterX
Your hear the stories of the pros switching club manufacturers and taking months to adjust to the new clubs. I’ve just played two rounds with a new set of Taylor Made and my game is back to crap. They felt great on the range, but the results on the course were terrible. Or is it that Mars is rapidly approaching Earth that is having the effect on me and Tiger?
Your hear the stories of the pros switching club manufacturers and taking months to adjust to the new clubs. I’ve just played two rounds with a new set of Taylor Made and my game is back to crap. They felt great on the range, but the results on the course were terrible. Or is it that Mars is rapidly approaching Earth that is having the effect on me and Tiger?
The first time I played with my Ping ISI irons they were great. I never looked back. I went from shooting in the 90’s to the 80’s. The feel and the confidence the Pings gave me really helped my game. — Regards, Irish Golf Lad "Truth was in our hearts and strength in our arms, and what we said, that we fulfilled." [Keelta of the Fianna]
Your hear the stories of the pros switching club manufacturers and taking months to adjust to the new clubs. I’ve just played two rounds with a new set of Taylor Made and my game is back to crap. They felt great on the range, but the results on the course were terrible. Or is it that Mars is rapidly approaching Earth that is having the effect on me and Tiger?
Yep, it’s those terrible clubs. Mail them to me and I’ll relieve you of the burden. 
Seriously, I’d check with the club fitter at your pro shop and make sure they’re adjusted to fit you. If they’re sufficiently different in lie and length from your old clubs, your "old swing" isn’t going to work the same with them. Good luck and don’t give up. Eliyahu
I too recently switched from Ping I3 oversized Cavity Backs to Mizuno MP-30 Musclebacks and figured that I’d have to adjust to the Blades which are suppose to be harder to hit than "More Forgiving" Cavity backs, but I hit the Mizunos AWESOME first time out and never looked back either. Your hear the stories of the pros switching club manufacturers and taking months to adjust to the new clubs. I’ve just played two rounds with a new set of Taylor Made and my game is back to crap. They felt great on the range, but the results on the course were terrible. Or is it that Mars is rapidly approaching Earth that is having the effect on me and Tiger?
Thanks in advance!!! Regards, Steve B.
If the irons fit you, getting used to them takes almost no time at all. Maybe some new distance numbers with specific irons but not usally dramatic, more subtle in nature. I went from Taylor made, to Zevo and most recently to PING. I had the ZEVO’s reshafted (didn’t like sensicore) with Rifle lites and they were fine. The PINGS I’ve loved right out of the box (except the Wedges). Bottom line, I don’t waste a lot of time if they don’t feel good and produce results. Also have not bought a stock set of irons in about 6 years (only buy fitted now). – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’ve just played two rounds with a new set of Taylor Made and my game is back to crap. They felt great on the range, but the results on the course were terrible.
I got used to my new iron almost immediately. In fact, I ironed all my shirts and slacks the first day I bought the thing.
If they don’t start producing for you within a couple of days, I would have the fit checked. Assuming that they are designated as a standard set of Taylormades, I would also want to make sure that the clubs are set up the way they are supposed to be. I bought a set of Callaway irons several years ago that were marked as standard lies and stiff shafts; when they were checked, they turned out to be 2 degrees flat! You never know…. Jeff – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Your hear the stories of the pros switching club manufacturers and taking months to adjust to the new clubs. I’ve just played two rounds with a new set of Taylor Made and my game is back to crap. They felt great on the range, but the results on the course were terrible. Or is it that Mars is rapidly approaching Earth that is having the effect on me and Tiger?
Rowena? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I got used to my new iron almost immediately. In fact, I ironed all my shirts and slacks the first day I bought the thing.
I got used to my new iron almost immediately. In fact, I ironed all my shirts and slacks the first day I bought the thing.
LOL!!
by mid 2004 you wont notice a thing!
Do any of you use Tommy Armour or Snake Eyes Irons? Looking for feedback about quality, use, feel, etc. I’ve read some of the reviews online and they all seem to be glowing. The problem with some review sites is that often people post glowing reviews simply to justify their own purchase. I know that’s not always the case, but honesty seems to be pretty rampant in here. Thoughts? -bill
Do any of you use Tommy Armour or Snake Eyes Irons? Looking for feedback about quality, use, feel, etc. I’ve read some of the reviews online and they all seem to be glowing. The problem with some review sites is that often people post glowing reviews simply to justify their own purchase. I know that’s not always the case, but honesty seems to be pretty rampant in here. Thoughts? -bill
The Tommy Armour 845s Silver Scot irons are still considered one of the finest cast cavity back clubs ever made. They were taken out of production about 5 years ago, but demand was great enough that they were reintroduced (with a parallel hosel instead of taper) less than 18 months later. I believe they were recently retired again, but I wouldn’t be surprised if they made another comeback, the design is that good. (FYI, the current 845FS is NOT the same club as the 845s, although it looks very similar.) My first set of decent clubs were regular flex graphite shafted Tommy Armour 855s irons, basically an oversized, game improvement version of the 845. They were very good and I played with the for 2 years. I changed clubs about 5 years ago, but it was because my swing speed had increased to the point where I needed a stiff flex shaft and I wanted to switch to steel shafts, not because I wasn’t happy with the 855s. I gave very serious consideration to steel shafted TA 845 irons, but they were out of production at the time, so I decided to build a set of Golfsmith Tour Cavity irons instead. TA is not a major player in the business anymore, but from all accounts they still make good quality clubs. Snake Eyes was an OEM at one time, but now is one of the Golfsmith house brands. In the US you can buy them assembled or as components. I have the 22* and 18* QuickStrike hybrid clubs that I assembled myself and have been very happy with the, especially the 22*. Some people have complained that the finish isn’t very durable and the finish on mine is flaking. However, the club performs very well, so I couldn’t care less what it looks like. — Dan Driscoll Member – NCGA RSG FAQ: http://ttsoft.com/thor/rsggolf.html RSG Roll Call http://rec-sport-golf.com/members/?rollcall=driscolld
The Tommy Armour 845s Silver Scot irons are still considered one of the finest cast cavity back clubs ever made. They were taken out of production about 5 years ago, but demand was great enough that they were reintroduced (with a parallel hosel instead of taper) less than 18 months later. I believe they were recently retired again, but I wouldn’t be surprised if they made another comeback, the design is that good. (FYI, the current 845FS is NOT the same club as the 845s, although it looks very similar.)
I’ve been looking at the 845U – that’s the black-and-red one…I’ll have to look up the differences, but the prices have certainly been good.
In article Do any of you use Tommy Armour or Snake Eyes Irons? Looking for feedback about quality, use, feel, etc. I’ve read some of the reviews online and they all seem to be glowing. The problem with some review sites is that often people post glowing reviews simply to justify their own purchase. I know that’s not always the case, but honesty seems to be pretty rampant in here. Thoughts?
I’ve been playing TA 845 Titaniums (graphite shafts) for about 4 or 5 years now. I had been playing Bullets up until then. I went to the local golf shop and hit just about every brand they had and the TA’s were as close to the Bullets as I could find as far as feel – I favor clubs where I can really feel the heads at the end of the club. Most of the others felt too light. I had to get them ordered straight from the factory because I needed them bent 3- degrees upright. As near as I can remember, the shop did not have Snake Eyes irons, so I cannot comment on those. — Jeff Chung SF Bay Area Golf Course Reviews http://u1.netgate.net/~kirby34/golf1.htm
I have been playing Armour 845’s for about 10 years. My first set were stiff flex, steel shafted, regular sized 845’s. I played with them for about 6 years before giving them to my son and switching to Armour 845 Titanium faced irons with a regular flex, steel shaft. I felt my swing speed had decreased to the point where I was losing distance playing a stiff shaft. I have been playing the "Ti’s" for about 4 years. The Armours are a great club. Good feedback and somewhat forgiving of off-hits. That having been written, I recently purchased a 5 and 8 iron along with a pitching wedge from a company online. They are clones of the Ping I3 irons. I ordered these with a regular flex, graphite shaft. They came in yesterday and tonight will be my first time hitting them. I will let you know if there is any big difference in the Armours vs. the cloned Pings. Just one man’s opinion. Bernie – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Do any of you use Tommy Armour or Snake Eyes Irons? Looking for feedback about quality, use, feel, etc. I’ve read some of the reviews online and they all seem to be glowing. The problem with some review sites is that often people post glowing reviews simply to justify their own purchase. I know that’s not always the case, but honesty seems to be pretty rampant in here. Thoughts? -bill
Do any of you use Tommy Armour or Snake Eyes Irons? Looking for feedback about quality, use, feel, etc. I’ve read some of the reviews online and they all seem to be glowing. The problem with some review sites is that often people post glowing reviews simply to justify their own purchase. I know that’s not always the case, but honesty seems to be pretty rampant in here.
I know what you mean about the reviews, very few people are going to take the trouble to admit they’re wrong about the money they just spent unless they’re really p*ssed off about it. You don’t see too many "I spent $700 for these irons and they suck!" write-ups. Do a search for "Ham and Eggs golf" and find their site, they’re pretty objective. I bought a set used of Amour 845s off eBay as my first set of clubs and I liked them a lot. I’d have them still except I bought stiff steel shafts not knowing any better and eventually replaced them with a set of regular flex Adams with graphite tips to see if my elbows would stop hurting. (they did) They’re very forgiving clubs, you don’t have to hit the sweetspot to get a decent result. And when you do hit it flush you can feel that too. I got to where I could easily tell a toe, heel or thin hit just by feel. You can certainly buy more expensive clubs, but if you’re like me, until your game gets to the level where you’re breaking 80, these will do just fine. And I doubt they’ll get in the way of breaking 80 as I’m sure there are plenty of better golfers playing Armours. It just seems many of them gravitate to Titleists and Pings for some reason. Consider buying a used set off eBay, there are plenty of sets available and if it turns out they don’t suit you, you can auction them off and not be out too much $$.
I have now played several rounds with the Ping clones that I purchased from Giga-golf. I see or feel no significant difference between them and the Tommy Armour 845’s I carry. My conclusion would be that I was foolish to pay $900 for the Armour’s and given the choice I would purchase the clones and save the money. This is just one man’s opinion but in the hands of a low to mid teens handicap player, I don’t think the clubs make a huge difference. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Do any of you use Tommy Armour or Snake Eyes Irons? Looking for feedback about quality, use, feel, etc. I’ve read some of the reviews online and they all seem to be glowing. The problem with some review sites is that often people post glowing reviews simply to justify their own purchase. I know that’s not always the case, but honesty seems to be pretty rampant in here. Thoughts? -bill
" My conclusion would be that I was foolish to pay $900 for the Armour’s and given the choice I would purchase the clones and save the money. This is just one man’s opinion but in the hands of a low to mid teens handicap player, I don’t think the clubs make a huge difference.
$900?! Every set of irons I’m looking at is $299-$399… -bill
Bill, Which set of Armours are you shopping for? www.rockbottomgolf.com has the Royal Scots for $139 and the Silver Scots for $219. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – " My conclusion would be that I was foolish to pay $900 for the Armour’s and given the choice I would purchase the clones and save the money. This is just one man’s opinion but in the hands of a low to mid teens handicap player, I don’t think the clubs make a huge difference. $900?! Every set of irons I’m looking at is $299-$399… -bill
I bought a set of T/A 845 Titanium faced irons. I paid $899 for them. In fact that was the going price for any set of top quality irons a few years ago. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – " My conclusion would be that I was foolish to pay $900 for the Armour’s and given the choice I would purchase the clones and save the money. This is just one man’s opinion but in the hands of a low to mid teens handicap player, I don’t think the clubs make a huge difference. $900?! Every set of irons I’m looking at is $299-$399… -bill
Bill, Which set of Armours are you shopping for? www.rockbottomgolf.com has the Royal Scots for $139 and the Silver Scots for $219.
I was looking at the 845U and the 845S. Both were $299 as of yesterday.
I built a set of irons that were nominally ferrule required that I left the ferrules off of. With steel shafts I think I’m OK, but I’m going to go back and install them next week. The goal is to take all the heads off on a Monday night and have the set back together & ready to roll by Thursday AM. My concern is that I tend to have issues getting the ferrules to stay in place on the shaft. They tend to push up above the head and that looks bad and probably defeats the purpose of them in the first place. What’s the best way to get them to be in the right place and to stay there. My thought is that I need to sand the inside out a little bit so there’s more room for epoxy and that will roughen up the surface too. Also, I was thinking I could push them up the shaft and epoxy the heads on first, then after that’s solid push the ferrule down and glue it in place. Thanks in advance for any tips and help you can all offer! Bob Ontario, Calfornia
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I built a set of irons that were nominally ferrule required that I left the ferrules off of. With steel shafts I think I’m OK, but I’m going to go back and install them next week. The goal is to take all the heads off on a Monday night and have the set back together & ready to roll by Thursday AM. My concern is that I tend to have issues getting the ferrules to stay in place on the shaft. They tend to push up above the head and that looks bad and probably defeats the purpose of them in the first place. What’s the best way to get them to be in the right place and to stay there. My thought is that I need to sand the inside out a little bit so there’s more room for epoxy and that will roughen up the surface too. Also, I was thinking I could push them up the shaft and epoxy the heads on first, then after that’s solid push the ferrule down and glue it in place. Thanks in advance for any tips and help you can all offer! Bob Ontario, Calfornia
Do all of the above, but dry fit the ferrule and head, then remove the head. Add your epoxy to the shaft between the ferrule and the tip and put the head back on. Make sure the ferrule and head are tight. Wipe off the excess and let dry. If you epoxy the head first and let dry – the epoxy will harden and will not allow the ferrule to slip between the hosel and the shaft. — David Sneddon Hi-Tech Turf Synthetic Turf Applications
To add to Dave’s comments….If you are mixing your epoxy on a flat surface as some do, (i.e.. a piece of cardboard) Roll the shaft tip around in the epoxy and then slide the ferrule on with the head to seat it properly. The epoxy provides a little lubrication, and then serves to hold the ferrule in place. (Make sure that there are no shafting beads in the initial mix.) Good Luck. Chris S.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I built a set of irons that were nominally ferrule required that I left the ferrules off of. With steel shafts I think I’m OK, but I’m going to go back and install them next week. The goal is to take all the heads off on a Monday night and have the set back together & ready to roll by Thursday AM. My concern is that I tend to have issues getting the ferrules to stay in place on the shaft. They tend to push up above the head and that looks bad and probably defeats the purpose of them in the first place. What’s the best way to get them to be in the right place and to stay there. My thought is that I need to sand the inside out a little bit so there’s more room for epoxy and that will roughen up the surface too. Also, I was thinking I could push them up the shaft and epoxy the heads on first, then after that’s solid push the ferrule down and glue it in place. Thanks in advance for any tips and help you can all offer! Bob Ontario, Calfornia
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I built a set of irons that were nominally ferrule required that I left the ferrules off of. With steel shafts I think I’m OK, but I’m going to go back and install them next week. The goal is to take all the heads off on a Monday night and have the set back together & ready to roll by Thursday AM. My concern is that I tend to have issues getting the ferrules to stay in place on the shaft. They tend to push up above the head and that looks bad and probably defeats the purpose of them in the first place. What’s the best way to get them to be in the right place and to stay there. My thought is that I need to sand the inside out a little bit so there’s more room for epoxy and that will roughen up the surface too. Also, I was thinking I could push them up the shaft and epoxy the heads on first, then after that’s solid push the ferrule down and glue it in place. Thanks in advance for any tips and help you can all offer! Bob Ontario, Calfornia
I normally drive the ferrules into the correct position by pushing the shaft into the head (no epoxy yet). When I stick the head on, a little epoxy squishes out and I normally fond this epoxy between the top edge of the hosel and the bottom edge of the ferrule is enough to hold it in place.
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I built a set of irons that were nominally ferrule required that I left the ferrules off of. With steel shafts I think I’m OK, but I’m going to go back and install them next week. The goal is to take all the heads off on a Monday night and have the set back together & ready to roll by Thursday AM. My concern is that I tend to have issues getting the ferrules to stay in place on the shaft. They tend to push up above the head and that looks bad and probably defeats the purpose of them in the first place. What’s the best way to get them to be in the right place and to stay there. My thought is that I need to sand the inside out a little bit so there’s more room for epoxy and that will roughen up the surface too. Also, I was thinking I could push them up the shaft and epoxy the heads on first, then after that’s solid push the ferrule down and glue it in place. Thanks in advance for any tips and help you can all offer! Bob Ontario, Calfornia
If the ferrule tends to slide, then what you should do is to prep the shaft part of the way up under where the ferrule goes. Then, use a bit of epoxy under the ferrule to hold it in place. One thing: Prior to epoxying, I always take a small piece of paper towel with rubbing alcohol on it and wipe off the shaft and the inside of the hosel. This helps remove any oils that would prevent a good surface for the epoxy to bond to. If you prep the shaft under the ferrule (2/3 of the way up under the ferrule, say), and use a bit of epoxy when you push the ferrule on, you should have no problems. Mike Mike Dalecki GCA Accredited Clubmaker http://clubdoctor.com RSG-Wisconsin 2003 Information: http://dalecki.net/rsgwis2003 RSG Roll Call: http://rec-sport-golf.com/members/?rollcall=daleckim I do not patronize spammers. Help keep RSG clean!
If you prep the shaft under the ferrule (2/3 of the way up under the ferrule, say), and use a bit of epoxy when you push the ferrule on, you should have no problems.
What I’ve been doing is getting the ferrule started on the tip, then soaking it in very hot water for a few seconds before sliding it into place. I do have a problem with them creeping up on some of my clubs and I end up having to remove some dried epoxy before I can slide them back down with a little superglue on the end. If there’s anything wrong with that approach, I’d sure like to know. I just took delivery of a set of Golfsmith Tour Cavity Forged heads and I want to do these suckers right!! Dave Clary/Corpus Christi, Tx Home: http://home.stx.rr.com/dclary Never Forget: http://www.politicsandprotest.org RSG Roll Call http://www.rec-sport-golf.com/members/?rollcall=claryd
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I built a set of irons that were nominally ferrule required that I left the ferrules off of. With steel shafts I think I’m OK, but I’m going to go back and install them next week. The goal is to take all the heads off on a Monday night and have the set back together & ready to roll by Thursday AM. My concern is that I tend to have issues getting the ferrules to stay in place on the shaft. They tend to push up above the head and that looks bad and probably defeats the purpose of them in the first place. What’s the best way to get them to be in the right place and to stay there. My thought is that I need to sand the inside out a little bit so there’s more room for epoxy and that will roughen up the surface too. Also, I was thinking I could push them up the shaft and epoxy the heads on first, then after that’s solid push the ferrule down and glue it in place. Thanks in advance for any tips and help you can all offer! Bob Ontario, Calfornia If the ferrule tends to slide, then what you should do is to prep the shaft part of the way up under where the ferrule goes. Then, use a bit of epoxy under the ferrule to hold it in place. One thing: Prior to epoxying, I always take a small piece of paper towel with rubbing alcohol on it and wipe off the shaft and the inside of the hosel. This helps remove any oils that would prevent a good surface for the epoxy to bond to. If you prep the shaft under the ferrule (2/3 of the way up under the ferrule, say), and use a bit of epoxy when you push the ferrule on, you should have no problems. Mike <snip
I’ve got two problems with ferrules and I know I’m buying what are nominally the correct sized ones from my friends at Golfsmith. They’re invariably either too lose (only on graphite shafts) or too tight (only on irons). I took the heads off of my irons this weekend (wife just got out of the hospital and even I’m not so classless as to golf in those circumstances) so I could put ferrules on. The ones I have (Golfsmith #SE9020, IIRC) are really snug. So snug that there’s no way I’m going to believe that any epoxy is going to fit between the ferrule & the shaft. Should I use a drill bit and try to ream it out? Or just use some sand paper on a drill and do it that way? I would like to stick with the ferrules I bought if possible if only for aesthetic reasons. Thanks a ton! Bob Ontario, California
Round file (I think it’s called a rat tail) is perfect. It roughs up the inside of the ferrule enough so that the epoxy bonds to the shaft and the ferrule. Since I did this, I’ve had no problems with ferrules riding up. I hate ferrules, Ping had the right idea. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -I’ve got two problems with ferrules and I know I’m buying what are nominally the correct sized ones from my friends at Golfsmith. They’re invariably either too lose (only on graphite shafts) or too tight (only on irons). I took the heads off of my irons this weekend (wife just got out of the hospital and even I’m not so classless as to golf in those circumstances) so I could put ferrules on. The ones I have (Golfsmith #SE9020, IIRC) are really snug. So snug that there’s no way I’m going to believe that any epoxy is going to fit between the ferrule & the shaft. Should I use a drill bit and try to ream it out? Or just use some sand paper on a drill and do it that way? I would like to stick with the ferrules I bought if possible if only for aesthetic reasons. Thanks a ton! Bob Ontario, California
My grips are logo side down because I don’t like looking at the logos when I am over the ball.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – It’s really a two part question. The grip itself. He likes the way this particular one feels. And the exposure. If he’s not getting paid, he’s not carrying or showing the logo. its also why he has the golf pride grips with the logo side down. No endorsment deal.
My grips are logo side down because I don’t like looking at the logos when I am over the ball.
I dunno. It never occurred to me to focus on my grips when I’m trying to hit the ball… –Blair "Which way is the hole?"
My grips are logo side down because I don’t like looking at the logos when I am over the ball. It’s really a two part question. The grip itself. He likes the way this particular one feels. And the exposure. If he’s not getting paid, he’s not carrying or showing the logo. its also why he has the golf pride grips with the logo side down. No endorsment deal.
Can you see the logos when you are gripping the club? I doubt if he really has the grips upside down. The only time you can see the logo on a grip is when the player is not gripping the club for a shot. The club could be in any orientation then, so you’ll probabaly see it anyway. Also, I wasn’t aware that any pro had an direct endorsement deal with a grip manufacturer (or a shaft manufacturer come to that)
If you will notice almost all tour players have the name on the grip facing down. It’s because the logo is distracting. From going to lots of tournaments I can tell you that a LOT of players use Golf Pride grips…all facing down. GoLow
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – It’s really a two part question. The grip itself. He likes the way this particular one feels. And the exposure. If he’s not getting paid, he’s not carrying or showing the logo. its also why he has the golf pride grips with the logo side down. No endorsment deal.
Unfortunately, it is a Ping Anser design that has been ripped off.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – It’s really a two part question. The grip itself. He likes the way this particular one feels. And the exposure. If he’s not getting paid, he’s not carrying or showing the logo. — Doug Main "It’s never too late to have a happy childhood." I suspect it’s more that Titleist doesn’t want ANYONE thinking Tiger uses a Ping putter. Dave
Tiger has a Ping Grip on his putter because that is the grip he started with, and no other grip feels the same to him. It is blacked out because he has no endorsement with Ping. I read this in a Golf magazine a couple of years back. HTH, Mike – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – A better question would be "Why does Tiger have a Ping grip on a Titliest putter?" As far as the course is/was concerned. It was long and tight in places. It is difficult to assess a golf course on television as there is no 3rd dimension to view the contours. All in all I thought it was an enjoyable event. you will find most private courses do to make it a little easier for the members. From the TV perspective, it looked like downhill,straight-away holes, with little trouble to get into for the average golfer. Between the four players it seemed to come down to putting for birdies, and nothing else. (except for that trap shot Tiger pulled off). No trees, no doglegs, no interfering ponds, no ranger to speed up play, no gators. And how many courses do we play that have first cut and second cut roughs? And most importantly: Why does Tiger have the letters PING blacked out on the grip of his Scotty Cameron putter? I’ve noticed that for a couple of years now.
It’s really a two part question. The grip itself. He likes the way this particular one feels. And the exposure. If he’s not getting paid, he’s not carrying or showing the logo. — Doug Main "It’s never too late to have a happy childhood."
I suspect it’s more that Titleist doesn’t want ANYONE thinking Tiger uses a Ping putter. Dave
From the TV perspective, it looked like downhill,straight-away holes, with little trouble to get into for the average golfer. Between the four players it seemed to come down to putting for birdies, and nothing else. (except for that trap shot Tiger pulled off). No trees, no doglegs, no interfering ponds, no ranger to speed up play, no gators. And how many courses do we play that have first cut and second cut roughs? And most importantly: Why does Tiger have the letters PING blacked out on the grip of his Scotty Cameron putter? I’ve noticed that for a couple of years now.
A better question would be "Why does Tiger have a Ping grip on a Titliest putter?" As far as the course is/was concerned. It was long and tight in places. It is difficult to assess a golf course on television as there is no 3rd dimension to view the contours. All in all I thought it was an enjoyable event. you will find most private courses do to make it a little easier for the members.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – From the TV perspective, it looked like downhill,straight-away holes, with little trouble to get into for the average golfer. Between the four players it seemed to come down to putting for birdies, and nothing else. (except for that trap shot Tiger pulled off). No trees, no doglegs, no interfering ponds, no ranger to speed up play, no gators. And how many courses do we play that have first cut and second cut roughs? And most importantly: Why does Tiger have the letters PING blacked out on the grip of his Scotty Cameron putter? I’ve noticed that for a couple of years now.
A better question would be "Why does Tiger have a Ping grip on a Titliest putter?" snip And most importantly: Why does Tiger have the letters PING blacked out on the grip of his Scotty Cameron putter? I’ve noticed that for a couple of years now.
Tiger’s used a Ping grip on whatever putter for years. It’s about the feel of the thing in his hands. And since he has no endorsement deal with ping, he blacks out the brand name. It’s really a two part question. The grip itself. He likes the way this particular one feels. And the exposure. If he’s not getting paid, he’s not carrying or showing the logo. — Doug Main "It’s never too late to have a happy childhood."
Here’s a trick you might want to try. (I did this last weekend to pick out my new putter.) 1. Take your favorite three or four putters out to the practice green and spend a little bit of time getting used to each one. 2. Find a fairly level hole, move about ten feet back, and lay down a tee or some other marker. 3. Pick up a club and hit some practice putts, then try to sink 10 balls. Keep track of how many you make. 4. Repeat step 3 for the other putters. 5. Buy the putter that yields the highest score. FYI: My lower back gets sore when I practice putting so I went to the store to try out their tall putters. My results were as follows: TALL PUTTER #1: 3 out of 10 TALL PUTTER #2: 2 out of 10 MY OLD PUTTER: 4 out of 10 After my little test I decided to stick with my old putter but just as I was about to leave the store I caught sight of an Odyssey 2 Ball putter. It felt good so I took it back out to the green and sank 6 of my 10 putts! Although I hated to pony up $176.00 for a putter I bought it anyway and so far I’m very happy with it!
I have come to the conclusion, over the years, that good putting records are made with the puttee in focus, and with a putter he likes. My best advice to a fledging wannabe – "a good putter"- is to choose one you like the looks of, one that is enjoying a good track records with your friends, and go for it. We seldom, if ever, get just – "the right putter", on the first, second, or third try. However, there are still some sane ones out there, that have been using the same putter – for years, with delight.:–) I hope you fall in this category. Good luck. === Re: Putter opinions
I’m late to this party but I thought I’d say that I’ve had a Monza for
a couple of weeks now and I really like it. I had been using a Never Compromise but I was having touble aiming and
keep the putter on line during the strokle. The Monza’s big aiming line seems to help with both problems and I find that I can control the distance better than ever, perhaps because I’m not so worried about the line. Putters are a crapshoot, but I like the Monza.
Jeff Hi there, I am in the market for a new putter and after 2 hours of
putting on the practice green at my local shop I have narrowed it down to the Taylor Made Rossa Monza and the Odyssey DFX 2 ball. Has anybody had any "real" play times with these? What do you think of
them? Thanks Bryan
I have an old set of Lynx Master Models 17-4 Stainless steel irons that I have grown attached to. I have heard that over time, clubs can go out of whack(loft,lie, etc) due to range use and the such.Is that true. I had thought about bringing them to a pro shop to have them looked at to see if they need to be adjusted back to the proper specs. I have no idea what these clubs may have gone through during the first 20-25 years of their lives. Asthetically they are in good shape. Is it worth the time and money to do this. I am kind of anal when it comes to keeping things in good working order(car, computer, and most important -golf clubs :- ). Thanks for any input Mike
I think there’s little chance they’re out of whack, but you can have them checked for just a few dollars. Adjustments shouldn’t be more than a few more dollars. Even if a few are skeewhiff, I bet you’ll get enough change from a $50 to buy a sleeve of ProV1s — Doug Main "It’s never too late to have a happy childhood."
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have an old set of Lynx Master Models 17-4 Stainless steel irons that I have grown attached to. I have heard that over time, clubs can go out of whack(loft,lie, etc) due to range use and the such.Is that true. I had thought about bringing them to a pro shop to have them looked at to see if they need to be adjusted back to the proper specs. I have no idea what these clubs may have gone through during the first 20-25 years of their lives. Asthetically they are in good shape. Is it worth the time and money to do this. I am kind of anal when it comes to keeping things in good working order(car, computer, and most important -golf clubs :- ). Thanks for any input Mike
I was fortunate to have a great club fitter in business in my area for a very short time. I bought a used set of Ping ISI irons, and not knowing what they had been through, and the fact that they were a progressive set of lie angles, I had him let me hit them on a impact board for a dynamic fitting. He adjusted all of the lie angles to my personal specs and we looked on the internet and found what the lofts should be, from the factory, and adjusted all of the lofts to the original Ping specs. Yes… some of them were out a few degrees here and there. The whole process cost me like $25. I though it was too cheap and even tried to give the guy some more money. I think you’re doing the right thing. Find a good clubfitter in your area.
I have an old set of Lynx Master Models 17-4 Stainless steel irons that I have grown attached to. I have heard that over time, clubs can go out of whack(loft,lie, etc) due to range use and the such.Is that true. I had thought about bringing them to a pro shop to have them looked at to see if they need to be adjusted back to the proper specs. I have no idea what these clubs may have gone through during the first 20-25 years of their lives. Asthetically they are in good shape. Is it worth the time and money to do this. I am kind of anal when it comes to keeping things in good working order(car, computer, and most important -golf clubs :- ). Thanks for any input Mike
I have an old set of Lynx Master Models 17-4 Stainless steel irons that I have grown attached to. I have heard that over time, clubs can go out of whack(loft,lie, etc) due to range use and the such.Is that true. I had thought about bringing them to a pro shop to have them looked at to see if they need to be adjusted back to the proper specs. I have no idea what these clubs may have gone through during the first 20-25 years of their lives. Asthetically they are in good shape. Is it worth the time and money to do this. I am kind of anal when it comes to keeping things in good working order(car, computer, and most important -golf clubs :- ). Thanks for any input Mike
I’d ask this, though: Do you have any problems w/ ballflight that leads you to believe you have some loft/lie problems? If so, get ‘em checked out. If you play fine with them and there are no inexplicable problems, then I’d ask why fool w/ what’s working? Mike — Mike Dalecki GCA Accredited Clubmaker http://clubdoctor.com RSG-Wisconsin 2003 Information: http://dalecki.net/rsgwis2003 RSG Roll Call: http://rec-sport-golf.com/members/?rollcall=daleckim I do not patronize spammers. Help keep RSG clean!
I own a Ping Tisi 10 degree driver with an alida one shaft x stiff. My swing speed is 105 to 110 with about 260+ carry. But I am prone to fade to slice the ball. No matter what I do, I don’t seem to be able to straighten out the drive. I generally hit my three wood straight about 235 to 240. Yesterday we were sharing clubs and I got to hit a Taylormade R580 with a regular taylormade shaft. After 30 balls I had no slices and all balls went straight or slight draw. Is there some design feature in the Taylormade that would account for this or could it be a balance/rotation feature in the Taylormade that is allowing me to rotate my hands through the swing. Any thought appreciated. I am about to throw away the Pings in favor of Taylormade…and I am a real ping fan!
1. It may be the shaft. 2. Ping drivers come in many configurations: Upright to flat lie angles and open to closed faces. Who knows what you’ve got. 3. Taylormade drivers are all somewhat upright and somewhat closed face. Generally Taylormade drivers all will promote a draw. PS: I play a Taylormade 360 and love it. I’ve never hit a Ping driver, but I have read about their driver fitting program and it is arguably the most extensive of any company out there. Since Ping drivers are so customized, I find it hard to believe some one could just buy one *without* being fitted by a pro.
Bruce, I don’t have any specific information for you on why the Taylor Made would straighten you out, but I do own an R580 with a stock stiff shaft and I absolutely love it. I have never had a driver as long or as forgiving as this one. In fact, I know three people that bought R580s themselves after swinging mine on a golf course just to try it out. It is that good – it’s like a drug for golfers seeking distance and forgiveness. OK, I am waxing a bit enthusiastic here – ’nuff said… However, I am a Ping fan as well, but not for their woods – I have i3 irons and I really like them a lot. But I have never liked the Ping drivers, whatever the shaft, and I have tried several. Likewise I am not a fan of the i3 fairway metals after trying them. But I know many people who love ‘em, so it is definitely a personal preference thing. I recently made the mistake of having a sales rep at a local Dick’s Sporting Goods tape up a Taylor Made V-Steel 3 wood (steel, stiff) for me to swing. Holy moly, does it feel good. I need to go try it at a range where I can see the actual ball flight, not just in the little tunnel they have there. But it sure felt sweet. I get the premonition that I might be parting with $200 in the near future… Rich. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I own a Ping Tisi 10 degree driver with an alida one shaft x stiff. My swing speed is 105 to 110 with about 260+ carry. But I am prone to fade to slice the ball. No matter what I do, I don’t seem to be able to straighten out the drive. I generally hit my three wood straight about 235 to 240. Yesterday we were sharing clubs and I got to hit a Taylormade R580 with a regular taylormade shaft. After 30 balls I had no slices and all balls went straight or slight draw. Is there some design feature in the Taylormade that would account for this or could it be a balance/rotation feature in the Taylormade that is allowing me to rotate my hands through the swing. Any thought appreciated. I am about to throw away the Pings in favor of Taylormade…and I am a real ping fan!
I own a Ping Tisi 10 degree driver with an alida one shaft x stiff. My swing speed is 105 to 110 with about 260+ carry. But I am prone to fade to slice the ball. No matter what I do, I don’t seem to be able to straighten out the drive. I generally hit my three wood straight about 235 to 240. Yesterday we were sharing clubs and I got to hit a Taylormade R580 with a regular taylormade shaft. After 30 balls I had no slices and all balls went straight or slight draw. Is there some design feature in the Taylormade that would account for this or could it be a balance/rotation feature in the Taylormade that is allowing me to rotate my hands through the swing. Any thought appreciated. I am about to throw away the Pings in favor of Taylormade…and I am a real ping fan!
Pings come in multiple lie angles. What is the lie angle of yours? The lie angle of the TaylorMades is a little upright – about 3* more upright than the Titleist drivers, for example. This helps close the face and avoid a slice. Also, the new TaylorMades have multiple shafts. Which one was in yours? They are more or less tip stiff, etc.
I own a Ping Tisi 10 degree driver with an alida one shaft x stiff. My swing speed is 105 to 110 with about 260+ carry. But I am prone to fade to slice the ball. No matter what I do, I don’t seem to be able to straighten out the drive. I generally hit my three wood straight about 235 to 240. Yesterday we were sharing clubs and I got to hit a Taylormade R580 with a regular taylormade shaft. After 30 balls I had no slices and all balls went straight or slight draw. Is there some design feature in the Taylormade that would account for this or could it be a balance/rotation feature in the Taylormade that is allowing me to rotate my hands through the swing. Any thought appreciated. I am about to throw away the Pings in favor of Taylormade…and I am a real ping fan!
Or possibly the differing shafts? Bob
Bruce, If a shaft is too stiff, shots will tend to fade more and if a shaft is too weak shots will draw more. It could be you Ping shaft is too strong (X-Stiff). Also the large headed drivers (R580) are usually built with a draw bias weighting and closed face (2* or more). One more thing to consider, the Ping hosel comes in many configurations. Read the code on the hosel to tell. Fore example mine is RUO when means Regular, Upright lie, and Open Face Angle. Maybe you need to have shaft and hosel configuration changed. Ping can do this for a competitive price (approx $100). http://www.pinggolf.com/wrx/hosels.html Ed
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I own a Ping Tisi 10 degree driver with an alida one shaft x stiff. My swing speed is 105 to 110 with about 260+ carry. But I am prone to fade to slice the ball. No matter what I do, I don’t seem to be able to straighten out the drive. I generally hit my three wood straight about 235 to 240. Yesterday we were sharing clubs and I got to hit a Taylormade R580 with a regular taylormade shaft. After 30 balls I had no slices and all balls went straight or slight draw. Is there some design feature in the Taylormade that would account for this or could it be a balance/rotation feature in the Taylormade that is allowing me to rotate my hands through the swing. Any thought appreciated. I am about to throw away the Pings in favor of Taylormade…and I am a real ping fan!
I’d certainly take a look at the the new Titleist 690.CB’s. Forged cavity-backs. Nice!
Agreed … the MBs are pretty sweet too. FV
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’d certainly take a look at the the new Titleist 690.CB’s. Forged cavity-backs. Nice! Jeff Excuse me … I stand corrected. I did indeed mean Blades vs. Cavity Back. Thanks for all the replies and advice so far … I’m sure the issue has been beat to death but I’m new so thanks for the slack. My current instructor says I need stiff (S300) and said I could learn blades fairly quick and very forgiving CBs would be somewhat of an injustice in the long term. So far I’ve hit Hogan blades, Ping I3+, I3+ Blades and I’ve been using my son’s set of Ping Eye 2s. All 4 "feel" good but I have to admit that the "sense and feel" of a truly clean hit off the I3+ blades and Hogan Apex feels great. Also I hate buying twice … yes, I know I’ll probably buy 10 sets over the years but I have this overwhelming sense at this beginning stage that I should get and need what’s best for me so I’ve been putting myself through the ringer over the decision. I just don’t want to get or do anything at my green stage that will catch up with me later. I’m looking and thinking long term. I think I put less thought into getting married. I now view golf as a lifestyle as well as a sport and the idea of doing anything dumb in my formative stage erks the hell out of me. Thanks, FreddyV SNIP
I hit the Pings well, but I love the MB-1s I had the opportunity to hit the MB-1s … thought they were very nice. Too bad they are out of production. If you ever sell them you know who to tell ;]. FreddyV
<snip They are sweet! It’s really a shame that Snake Eyes didn’t make it and was bought out by Golfsmith. I think Golfsmith would have a best seller if they got Smith & Wesson to start forging the heads again. You can sometimes find used sets on Ebay and GCE, usually in the $300 range. — Jim Sabatke Hire Me!! – See my resume at http://my.execpc.com/~jsabatke Do not meddle in the affairs of Dragons, for you are crunchy and good with ketchup.
http://www.golfclubexchange.com/ GCE?
<snip — Jim Sabatke Hire Me!! – See my resume at http://my.execpc.com/~jsabatke Do not meddle in the affairs of Dragons, for you are crunchy and good with ketchup.
Excuse me … I stand corrected. I did indeed mean Blades vs. Cavity Back. Thanks for all the replies and advice so far … I’m sure the issue has been beat to death but I’m new so thanks for the slack. My current instructor says I need stiff (S300) and said I could learn blades fairly quick and very forgiving CBs would be somewhat of an injustice in the long term. So far I’ve hit Hogan blades, Ping I3+, I3+ Blades and I’ve been using my son’s set of Ping Eye 2s. All 4 "feel" good but I have to admit that the "sense and feel" of a truly clean hit off the I3+ blades and Hogan Apex feels great. Also I hate buying twice … yes, I know I’ll probably buy 10 sets over the years
Well I have been playing Hogan Apex blades for 20 years now, so maybe not! Those clean hits are sweet. Blades are currently out of fashion, so you can get used ones really cheap, in fact, its cheaper for me to buy a used set then to put new grips on mine. My pro shop has an nice looking Hogan Apex 2-PW set(early 90’s vintage) for $50 and today had a "tent sale" and they were marked down to $10 and still nobody wants them. I would recommend you buy a cheap used set of blades, and if you don’t like them get the cavity back. The feel is definitely different between the two, but the results are the same as far as where the ball goes, the forgiveness of the cavity backs I think is all marketing hype.
GCE?
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I hit the Pings well, but I love the MB-1s I had the opportunity to hit the MB-1s … thought they were very nice. Too bad they are out of production. If you ever sell them you know who to tell ;]. FreddyV <snip They are sweet! It’s really a shame that Snake Eyes didn’t make it and was bought out by Golfsmith. I think Golfsmith would have a best seller if they got Smith & Wesson to start forging the heads again. You can sometimes find used sets on Ebay and GCE, usually in the $300 range. — Jim Sabatke Hire Me!! – See my resume at http://my.execpc.com/~jsabatke Do not meddle in the affairs of Dragons, for you are crunchy and good with ketchup.
I would seriously look at the Cleveland TA-3’s.
I think my shop has a demo set … I’ll take a look. Thanks, Freddy – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi Freddy, I would seriously look at the Cleveland TA-3’s. These are forged cavity backs that are very close to a blade. I played them for over three years and I was very pleased with them. I now play Hogan Apex blades (for about 3 months) and really enjoy them. Surprisingly the Hogan’s hit just about as far as the TA-3’s but are 2 degrees weaker in loft. The real difference I find between them is that the Hogan’s hit the ball much higher and are easier to draw than the TA-3s. Larry Excuse me … I stand corrected. I did indeed mean Blades vs. Cavity Back. Thanks for all the replies and advice so far … I’m sure the issue has been beat to death but I’m new so thanks for the slack. My current instructor says I need stiff (S300) and said I could learn blades fairly quick and very forgiving CBs would be somewhat of an injustice in the long term. So far I’ve hit Hogan blades, Ping I3+, I3+ Blades and I’ve been using my son’s set of Ping Eye 2s. All 4 "feel" good but I have to admit that the "sense and feel" of a truly clean hit off the I3+ blades and Hogan Apex feels great. Also I hate buying twice … yes, I know I’ll probably buy 10 sets over the years but I have this overwhelming sense at this beginning stage that I should get and need what’s best for me so I’ve been putting myself through the ringer over the decision. I just don’t want to get or do anything at my green stage that will catch up with me later. I’m looking and thinking long term. I think I put less thought into getting married. I now view golf as a lifestyle as well as a sport and the idea of doing anything dumb in my formative stage erks the hell out of me. Thanks, FreddyV I’m new to the game (1 month). Having a son that works at Desert Pines Las Vegas I have ample discounted range and tee time. I learned to hit a driver first which I was told was taking the hard route but I can hit long, straight drives now. I promptly signed up for lessons. Using Nike Learning Center now (you get 4 times what you pay in free goods and time) but have already contacted Jimmy Bullard and the Harmon boys (Las Vegas) for further lessons. Here’s the hitch … I’m now having a bit of a hard time hitting irons … but that’s another story. I borrowed a set from my son but I now want my own. I know that this stage of learning is most likely my formative period so I am looking to do what is right for my long term game and I’m willing to put in the time and pay my dues. I get to the range 4 – 5 times per week and can play every day if that is what I choose to do. On to the I’ve been told the cavity back clubs such as X-16 and the like are very easy to hit but will mask some faults, hiding a less than perfect swing. It is also my understanding that forged clubs are less forgiving and have a longer learning curve but will lead to a better swing and game in the long run. I’ve also seen the hybrids such as the Hogan Apex. I’ve hit all 3 flavors but truthfully can’t discern the differences at this point … except that a bad hit with a blade tends to hurt and a good hit goes long, straight and feels like I hit a cotton ball. I’m also being told that if I start with CBs I can get out a play decent in short order but if I switch later I’ll have to relearn much and for certain faults it might be too late. Also, if I start with forged my swing/game will be better in the long run but it could take six months to a year to learn. So here it is What type should I start with? Thanks in advance, FreddyV
I don’t think you can go wrong w/ the Hogans. Since you are–quite smartly, BTW–getting lessons, and your instructor thinks that blades would work for you, get the Hogans. Beautiful clubs, IMO. I agree w/ the instructor, very forgiving CBs are clubs you’ll outgrow.
I love the look as well as the feel of the Hogans. Thanks to my local Pro Shop Vegas Golf’s, demo policy I’ve been able to try quite a few different brand clubs. I couldn’t image not getting instruction. I also own a video production co. and have been using that to my advantage by taping my swing each week. I also had my staff brainiac write a program that analyzes the swing from various angles in slowmo. Nothing like seeing your own swing … makes it so much easier to set goals to improve. FreddyV
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Excuse me … I stand corrected. I did indeed mean Blades vs. Cavity Back. Thanks for all the replies and advice so far … I’m sure the issue has been beat to death but I’m new so thanks for the slack. My current instructor says I need stiff (S300) and said I could learn blades fairly quick and very forgiving CBs would be somewhat of an injustice in the long term. So far I’ve hit Hogan blades, Ping I3+, I3+ Blades and I’ve been using my son’s set of Ping Eye 2s. All 4 "feel" good but I have to admit that the "sense and feel" of a truly clean hit off the I3+ blades and Hogan Apex feels great. Also I hate buying twice … yes, I know I’ll probably buy 10 sets over the years but I have this overwhelming sense at this beginning stage that I should get and need what’s best for me so I’ve been putting myself through the ringer over the decision. I just don’t want to get or do anything at my green stage that will catch up with me later. I’m looking and thinking long term. I think I put less thought into getting married. I now view golf as a lifestyle as well as a sport and the idea of doing anything dumb in my formative stage erks the hell out of me. Thanks, FreddyV I don’t think you can go wrong w/ the Hogans. Since you are–quite smartly, BTW–getting lessons, and your instructor thinks that blades would work for you, get the Hogans. Beautiful clubs, IMO. I agree w/ the instructor, very forgiving CBs are clubs you’ll outgrow. And keep up w/ the lessons and practicing. Mike I’m new to the game (1 month). Having a son that works at Desert Pines Las Vegas I have ample discounted range and tee time. I learned to hit a driver first which I was told was taking the hard route but I can hit long, straight drives now. I promptly signed up for lessons. Using Nike Learning Center now (you get 4 times what you pay in free goods and time) but have already contacted Jimmy Bullard and the Harmon boys (Las Vegas) for further lessons. Here’s the hitch … I’m now having a bit of a hard time hitting irons … but that’s another story. I borrowed a set from my son but I now want my own. I know that this stage of learning is most likely my formative period so I am looking to do what is right for my long term game and I’m willing to put in the time and pay my dues. I get to the range 4 – 5 times per week and can play every day if that is what I choose to do. On to the I’ve been told the cavity back clubs such as X-16 and the like are very easy to hit but will mask some faults, hiding a less than perfect swing. It is also my understanding that forged clubs are less forgiving and have a longer learning curve but will lead to a better swing and game in the long run. I’ve also seen the hybrids such as the Hogan Apex. I’ve hit all 3 flavors but truthfully can’t discern the differences at this point … except that a bad hit with a blade tends to hurt and a good hit goes long, straight and feels like I hit a cotton ball. I’m also being told that if I start with CBs I can get out a play decent in short order but if I switch later I’ll have to relearn much and for certain faults it might be too late. Also, if I start with forged my swing/game will be better in the long run but it could take six months to a year to learn. So here it is What type should I start with? Thanks in advance, FreddyV — Mike Dalecki GCA Accredited Clubmaker http://clubdoctor.com RSG-Wisconsin 2003 Information: http://dalecki.net/rsgwis2003 RSG Roll Call: http://rec-sport-golf.com/members/?rollcall=daleckim I do not patronize spammers. Help keep RSG clean!
I hit the Pings well, but I love the MB-1s
I had the opportunity to hit the MB-1s … thought they were very nice. Too bad they are out of production. If you ever sell them you know who to tell ;]. FreddyV
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Excuse me … I stand corrected. I did indeed mean Blades vs. Cavity Back. Thanks for all the replies and advice so far … I’m sure the issue has been beat to death but I’m new so thanks for the slack. My current instructor says I need stiff (S300) and said I could learn blades fairly quick and very forgiving CBs would be somewhat of an injustice in the long term. So far I’ve hit Hogan blades, Ping I3+, I3+ Blades and I’ve been using my son’s set of Ping Eye 2s. All 4 "feel" good but I have to admit that the "sense and feel" of a truly clean hit off the I3+ blades and Hogan Apex feels great. Also I hate buying twice … yes, I know I’ll probably buy 10 sets over the years but I have this overwhelming sense at this beginning stage that I should get and need what’s best for me so I’ve been putting myself through the ringer over the decision. I just don’t want to get or do anything at my green stage that will catch up with me later. I’m looking and thinking long term. I think I put less thought into getting married. I now view golf as a lifestyle as well as a sport and the idea of doing anything dumb in my formative stage erks the hell out of me. Thanks, FreddyV I don’t think you can go wrong w/ the Hogans. Since you are–quite smartly, BTW–getting lessons, and your instructor thinks that blades would work for you, get the Hogans. Beautiful clubs, IMO. I agree w/ the instructor, very forgiving CBs are clubs you’ll outgrow. And keep up w/ the lessons and practicing. Mike I’m new to the game (1 month). Having a son that works at Desert Pines Las Vegas I have ample discounted range and tee time. I learned to hit a driver first which I was told was taking the hard route but I can hit long, straight drives now. I promptly signed up for lessons. Using Nike Learning Center now (you get 4 times what you pay in free goods and time) but have already contacted Jimmy Bullard and the Harmon boys (Las Vegas) for further lessons. Here’s the hitch … I’m now having a bit of a hard time hitting irons … but that’s another story. I borrowed a set from my son but I now want my own. I know that this stage of learning is most likely my formative period so I am looking to do what is right for my long term game and I’m willing to put in the time and pay my dues. I get to the range 4 – 5 times per week and can play every day if that is what I choose to do. On to the I’ve been told the cavity back clubs such as X-16 and the like are very easy to hit but will mask some faults, hiding a less than perfect swing. It is also my understanding that forged clubs are less forgiving and have a longer learning curve but will lead to a better swing and game in the long run. I’ve also seen the hybrids such as the Hogan Apex. I’ve hit all 3 flavors but truthfully can’t discern the differences at this point … except that a bad hit with a blade tends to hurt and a good hit goes long, straight and feels like I hit a cotton ball. I’m also being told that if I start with CBs I can get out a play decent in short order but if I switch later I’ll have to relearn much and for certain faults it might be too late. Also, if I start with forged my swing/game will be better in the long run What type should I start with? Thanks in advance, FreddyV I switched a few years ago from Ping Eye 2s to Snake Eyes MB-1 muscle backs. I hit the Pings well, but I love the MB-1s. I get crisper hits with a high, yet more boring trajectory. I also love the sensory feedback I get. My wife used to hit DCIs, but after she tried hitting my MB-1s, she went out and bought herself a set, and she hits them very well also. I have also hit the Hogan Apex irons and I really like them too, in fact my 2 iron is an Apex. For me it’s a feel thing and probably a bit of a mental attitude thing, but I feel like I have a lot more control and confidence with muscle backs. A lot of really good players and pros do use cast cavity backs though, and they also get good results. So, I would go with your pro’s advice and what feels good to you. BTW, you can often get really good deals on used muscle backs in golf stores, or online. — Jim Sabatke Hire Me!! – See my resume at http://my.execpc.com/~jsabatke Do not meddle in the affairs of Dragons, for you are crunchy and good with ketchup.
In fact, the last four Major winners all played cavity back irons. British Open- Ernie Els- Taylormade 300 series PGA- Rich Beem- Taylormade 300 series Masters- Mike Weir- Taylormade 300 series US Open- Jim Furyk- Hogan Apex Plus James
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Lot’s of pros use cavity back clubs, even Callaways. Charles Howell and Brian Henninger both play Callaway irons and there a ton of players using Pings James What pros out there use Cavity backs? I’m new to the game (1 month). Having a son that works at Desert Pines Las Vegas I have ample discounted range and tee time. I learned to hit a driver first which I was told was taking the hard route but I can hit long, straight drives now. I promptly signed up for lessons. Using Nike Learning Center now (you get 4 times what you pay in free goods and time) but have already contacted Jimmy Bullard and the Harmon boys (Las Vegas) for further lessons. Here’s the hitch … I’m now having a bit of a hard time hitting irons … but that’s another story. I borrowed a set from my son but I now want my own. I know that this stage of learning is most likely my formative period so I am looking to do what is right for my long term game and I’m willing to put in the time and pay my dues. I get to the range 4 – 5 times per week and can play every day if that is what I choose to do. On to the I’ve been told the cavity back clubs such as X-16 and the like are very easy to hit but will mask some faults, hiding a less than perfect swing. It is also my understanding that forged clubs are less forgiving and have a longer learning curve but will lead to a better swing and game in the long run. I’ve also seen the hybrids such as the Hogan Apex. I’ve hit all 3 flavors but truthfully can’t discern the differences at this point … except that a bad hit with a blade tends to hurt and a good hit goes long, straight and feels like I hit a cotton ball. I’m also being told that if I start with CBs I can get out a play decent in short order but if I switch later I’ll have to relearn much and for certain faults it might be too late. Also, if I start with forged my swing/game will be better in the long run but it could take six months to a year to learn. So here it is What type should I start with? Thanks in advance, FreddyV
Lot’s of pros use cavity back clubs, even Callaways. Charles Howell and Brian Henninger both play Callaway irons and there a ton of players using Pings James
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – What pros out there use Cavity backs? I’m new to the game (1 month). Having a son that works at Desert Pines Las Vegas I have ample discounted range and tee time. I learned to hit a driver first which I was told was taking the hard route but I can hit long, straight drives now. I promptly signed up for lessons. Using Nike Learning Center now (you get 4 times what you pay in free goods and time) but have already contacted Jimmy Bullard and the Harmon boys (Las Vegas) for further lessons. Here’s the hitch … I’m now having a bit of a hard time hitting irons … but that’s another story. I borrowed a set from my son but I now want my own. I know that this stage of learning is most likely my formative period so I am looking to do what is right for my long term game and I’m willing to put in the time and pay my dues. I get to the range 4 – 5 times per week and can play every day if that is what I choose to do. On to the I’ve been told the cavity back clubs such as X-16 and the like are very easy to hit but will mask some faults, hiding a less than perfect swing. It is also my understanding that forged clubs are less forgiving and have a longer learning curve but will lead to a better swing and game in the long run. I’ve also seen the hybrids such as the Hogan Apex. I’ve hit all 3 flavors but truthfully can’t discern the differences at this point … except that a bad hit with a blade tends to hurt and a good hit goes long, straight and feels like I hit a cotton ball. I’m also being told that if I start with CBs I can get out a play decent in short order but if I switch later I’ll have to relearn much and for certain faults it might be too late. Also, if I start with forged my swing/game will be better in the long run What type should I start with? Thanks in advance, FreddyV
by the way, I mean the men, not the women..
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – What pros out there use Cavity backs? I’m new to the game (1 month). Having a son that works at Desert Pines Las Vegas I have ample discounted range and tee time. I learned to hit a driver first which I was told was taking the hard route but I can hit long, straight drives now. I promptly signed up for lessons. Using Nike Learning Center now (you get 4 times what you pay in free goods and time) but have already contacted Jimmy Bullard and the Harmon boys (Las Vegas) for further lessons. Here’s the hitch … I’m now having a bit of a hard time hitting irons … but that’s another story. I borrowed a set from my son but I now want my own. I know that this stage of learning is most likely my formative period so I am looking to do what is right for my long term game and I’m willing to put in the time and pay my dues. I get to the range 4 – 5 times per week and can play every day if that is what I choose to do. On to the I’ve been told the cavity back clubs such as X-16 and the like are very easy to hit but will mask some faults, hiding a less than perfect swing. It is also my understanding that forged clubs are less forgiving and have a longer learning curve but will lead to a better swing and game in the long run. I’ve also seen the hybrids such as the Hogan Apex. I’ve hit all 3 flavors but truthfully can’t discern the differences at this point … except that a bad hit with a blade tends to hurt and a good hit goes long, straight and feels like I hit a cotton ball. I’m also being told that if I start with CBs I can get out a play decent in short order but if I switch later I’ll have to relearn much and for certain faults it might be too late. Also, if I start with forged my swing/game will be better in the long run What type should I start with? Thanks in advance, FreddyV
Hi Freddy, I would seriously look at the Cleveland TA-3’s. These are forged cavity backs that are very close to a blade. I played them for over three years and I was very pleased with them. I now play Hogan Apex blades (for about 3 months) and really enjoy them. Surprisingly the Hogan’s hit just about as far as the TA-3’s but are 2 degrees weaker in loft. The real difference I find between them is that the Hogan’s hit the ball much higher and are easier to draw than the TA-3s. Larry
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Excuse me … I stand corrected. I did indeed mean Blades vs. Cavity Back. Thanks for all the replies and advice so far … I’m sure the issue has been beat to death but I’m new so thanks for the slack. My current instructor says I need stiff (S300) and said I could learn blades fairly quick and very forgiving CBs would be somewhat of an injustice in the long term. So far I’ve hit Hogan blades, Ping I3+, I3+ Blades and I’ve been using my son’s set of Ping Eye 2s. All 4 "feel" good but I have to admit that the "sense and feel" of a truly clean hit off the I3+ blades and Hogan Apex feels great. Also I hate buying twice … yes, I know I’ll probably buy 10 sets over the years but I have this overwhelming sense at this beginning stage that I should get and need what’s best for me so I’ve been putting myself through the ringer over the decision. I just don’t want to get or do anything at my green stage that will catch up with me later. I’m looking and thinking long term. I think I put less thought into getting married. I now view golf as a lifestyle as well as a sport and the idea of doing anything dumb in my formative stage erks the hell out of me. Thanks, FreddyV I’m new to the game (1 month). Having a son that works at Desert Pines Las Vegas I have ample discounted range and tee time. I learned to hit a driver first which I was told was taking the hard route but I can hit long, straight drives now. I promptly signed up for lessons. Using Nike Learning Center now (you get 4 times what you pay in free goods and time) but have already contacted Jimmy Bullard and the Harmon boys (Las Vegas) for further lessons. Here’s the hitch … I’m now having a bit of a hard time hitting irons … but that’s another story. I borrowed a set from my son but I now want my own. I know that this stage of learning is most likely my formative period so I am looking to do what is right for my long term game and I’m willing to put in the time and pay my dues. I get to the range 4 – 5 times per week and can play every day if that is what I choose to do. On to the I’ve been told the cavity back clubs such as X-16 and the like are very easy to hit but will mask some faults, hiding a less than perfect swing. It is also my understanding that forged clubs are less forgiving and have a longer learning curve but will lead to a better swing and game in the long run. I’ve also seen the hybrids such as the Hogan Apex. I’ve hit all 3 flavors but truthfully can’t discern the differences at this point … except that a bad hit with a blade tends to hurt and a good hit goes long, straight and feels like I hit a cotton ball. I’m also being told that if I start with CBs I can get out a play decent in short order but if I switch later I’ll have to relearn much and for certain faults it might be too late. Also, if I start with forged my swing/game will be better in the long run What type should I start with? Thanks in advance, FreddyV
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Excuse me … I stand corrected. I did indeed mean Blades vs. Cavity Back. Thanks for all the replies and advice so far … I’m sure the issue has been beat to death but I’m new so thanks for the slack. My current instructor says I need stiff (S300) and said I could learn blades fairly quick and very forgiving CBs would be somewhat of an injustice in the long term. So far I’ve hit Hogan blades, Ping I3+, I3+ Blades and I’ve been using my son’s set of Ping Eye 2s. All 4 "feel" good but I have to admit that the "sense and feel" of a truly clean hit off the I3+ blades and Hogan Apex feels great. Also I hate buying twice … yes, I know I’ll probably buy 10 sets over the years but I have this overwhelming sense at this beginning stage that I should get and need what’s best for me so I’ve been putting myself through the ringer over the decision. I just don’t want to get or do anything at my green stage that will catch up with me later. I’m looking and thinking long term. I think I put less thought into getting married. I now view golf as a lifestyle as well as a sport and the idea of doing anything dumb in my formative stage erks the hell out of me. Thanks, FreddyV I don’t think you can go wrong w/ the Hogans. Since you are–quite smartly, BTW–getting lessons, and your instructor thinks that blades would work for you, get the Hogans. Beautiful clubs, IMO. I agree w/ the instructor, very forgiving CBs are clubs you’ll outgrow. And keep up w/ the lessons and practicing. Mike I’m new to the game (1 month). Having a son that works at Desert Pines Las Vegas I have ample discounted range and tee time. I learned to hit a driver first which I was told was taking the hard route but I can hit long, straight drives now. I promptly signed up for lessons. Using Nike Learning Center now (you get 4 times what you pay in free goods and time) but have already contacted Jimmy Bullard and the Harmon boys (Las Vegas) for further lessons. Here’s the hitch … I’m now having a bit of a hard time hitting irons … but that’s another story. I borrowed a set from my son but I now want my own. I know that this stage of learning is most likely my formative period so I am looking to do what is right for my long term game and I’m willing to put in the time and pay my dues. I get to the range 4 – 5 times per week and can play every day if that is what I choose to do. On to the I’ve been told the cavity back clubs such as X-16 and the like are very easy to hit but will mask some faults, hiding a less than perfect swing. It is also my understanding that forged clubs are less forgiving and have a longer learning curve but will lead to a better swing and game in the long run. I’ve also seen the hybrids such as the Hogan Apex. I’ve hit all 3 flavors but truthfully can’t discern the differences at this point … except that a bad hit with a blade tends to hurt and a good hit goes long, straight and feels like I hit a cotton ball. I’m also being told that if I start with CBs I can get out a play decent in short order but if I switch later I’ll have to relearn much and for certain faults it might be too late. Also, if I start with forged my swing/game will be better in the long run What type should I start with? Thanks in advance, FreddyV
I switched a few years ago from Ping Eye 2s to Snake Eyes MB-1 muscle backs. I hit the Pings well, but I love the MB-1s. I get crisper hits with a high, yet more boring trajectory. I also love the sensory feedback I get. My wife used to hit DCIs, but after she tried hitting my MB-1s, she went out and bought herself a set, and she hits them very well also. I have also hit the Hogan Apex irons and I really like them too, in fact my 2 iron is an Apex. For me it’s a feel thing and probably a bit of a mental attitude thing, but I feel like I have a lot more control and confidence with muscle backs. A lot of really good players and pros do use cast cavity backs though, and they also get good results. So, I would go with your pro’s advice and what feels good to you. BTW, you can often get really good deals on used muscle backs in golf stores, or online. — Jim Sabatke Hire Me!! – See my resume at http://my.execpc.com/~jsabatke Do not meddle in the affairs of Dragons, for you are crunchy and good with ketchup.
I’d certainly take a look at the the new Titleist 690.CB’s. Forged cavity-backs. Nice! Jeff – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Excuse me … I stand corrected. I did indeed mean Blades vs. Cavity Back. Thanks for all the replies and advice so far … I’m sure the issue has been beat to death but I’m new so thanks for the slack. My current instructor says I need stiff (S300) and said I could learn blades fairly quick and very forgiving CBs would be somewhat of an injustice in the long term. So far I’ve hit Hogan blades, Ping I3+, I3+ Blades and I’ve been using my son’s set of Ping Eye 2s. All 4 "feel" good but I have to admit that the "sense and feel" of a truly clean hit off the I3+ blades and Hogan Apex feels great. Also I hate buying twice … yes, I know I’ll probably buy 10 sets over the years but I have this overwhelming sense at this beginning stage that I should get and need what’s best for me so I’ve been putting myself through the ringer over the decision. I just don’t want to get or do anything at my green stage that will catch up with me later. I’m looking and thinking long term. I think I put less thought into getting married. I now view golf as a lifestyle as well as a sport and the idea of doing anything dumb in my formative stage erks the hell out of me. Thanks, FreddyV
SNIP
What pros out there use Cavity backs?
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m new to the game (1 month). Having a son that works at Desert Pines Las Vegas I have ample discounted range and tee time. I learned to hit a driver first which I was told was taking the hard route but I can hit long, straight drives now. I promptly signed up for lessons. Using Nike Learning Center now (you get 4 times what you pay in free goods and time) but have already contacted Jimmy Bullard and the Harmon boys (Las Vegas) for further lessons. Here’s the hitch … I’m now having a bit of a hard time hitting irons … but that’s another story. I borrowed a set from my son but I now want my own. I know that this stage of learning is most likely my formative period so I am looking to do what is right for my long term game and I’m willing to put in the time and pay my dues. I get to the range 4 – 5 times per week and can play every day if that is what I choose to do. On to the I’ve been told the cavity back clubs such as X-16 and the like are very easy to hit but will mask some faults, hiding a less than perfect swing. It is also my understanding that forged clubs are less forgiving and have a longer learning curve but will lead to a better swing and game in the long run. I’ve also seen the hybrids such as the Hogan Apex. I’ve hit all 3 flavors but truthfully can’t discern the differences at this point … except that a bad hit with a blade tends to hurt and a good hit goes long, straight and feels like I hit a cotton ball. I’m also being told that if I start with CBs I can get out a play decent in short order but if I switch later I’ll have to relearn much and for certain faults it might be too late. Also, if I start with forged my swing/game will be better in the long run What type should I start with? Thanks in advance, FreddyV
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m new to the game (1 month). Having a son that works at Desert Pines Las Vegas I have ample discounted range and tee time. I learned to hit a driver first which I was told was taking the hard route but I can hit long, straight drives now. I promptly signed up for lessons. Using Nike Learning Center now (you get 4 times what you pay in free goods and time) but have already contacted Jimmy Bullard and the Harmon boys (Las Vegas) for further lessons. Here’s the hitch … I’m now having a bit of a hard time hitting irons … but that’s another story. I borrowed a set from my son but I now want my own. I know that this stage of learning is most likely my formative period so I am looking to do what is right for my long term game and I’m willing to put in the time and pay my dues. I get to the range 4 – 5 times per week and can play every day if that is what I choose to do. On to the I’ve been told the cavity back clubs such as X-16 and the like are very easy to hit but will mask some faults, hiding a less than perfect swing. It is also my understanding that forged clubs are less forgiving and have a longer learning curve but will lead to a better swing and game in the long run. I’ve also seen the hybrids such as the Hogan Apex. I’ve hit all 3 flavors but truthfully can’t discern the differences at this point … except that a bad hit with a blade tends to hurt and a good hit goes long, straight and feels like I hit a cotton ball. I’m also being told that if I start with CBs I can get out a play decent in short order but if I switch later I’ll have to relearn much and for certain faults it might be too late. Also, if I start with forged my swing/game will be better in the long run What type should I start with? Thanks in advance, FreddyV
Fredd, it isn’t "forged vs. cavity back." It’s forged vs. cast, or blade vs. cavity back. The first involves the manufacturing method; forged is much more expensive than cast methods; the second is whether the clubhead has perimeter weighting or not. Someone at your stage of game/learning should almost certainly use a cavity-back design. Do you need forged, which will really run up the price? No. Forged irons are usually thought of as being for better players, though that’s been challenged lately by the OEMs. Some claim the feel is better with forged; others say you can’t tell the difference. The truth is, you can get forged cavity backs, cast blades, and variations here and there. Since you’re taking lessons, you might ask the pro for some advice. Mike Mike — Mike Dalecki GCA Accredited Clubmaker http://clubdoctor.com RSG-Wisconsin 2003 Information: http://dalecki.net/rsgwis2003 RSG Roll Call: http://rec-sport-golf.com/members/?rollcall=daleckim I do not patronize spammers. Help keep RSG clean!
The only part of your post I would disagree with is the comment that switching to forged blades later in your golfing career will force you to relearn some things….whoever told you this is giving far too much credit to a cavity-back cast-iron club’s ability to "mask" swing flaws. I think the point they were trying to make is a good one, however: don’t get clubs with such a high degree of "forgiveness"—like offset in the woods, large offset in the irons — that it delays your swing development over time. In other words, most beginners slice the ball and take awhile to improve their technique to the point where they hit the ball fairly straight and can hit a draw when they want to….offset clubs or deep cavity back clubs help to mask (to some degree) your swing tendencies that cause this effect….
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m new to the game (1 month). Having a son that works at Desert Pines Las Vegas I have ample discounted range and tee time. I learned to hit a driver first which I was told was taking the hard route but I can hit long, straight drives now. I promptly signed up for lessons. Using Nike Learning Center now (you get 4 times what you pay in free goods and time) but have already contacted Jimmy Bullard and the Harmon boys (Las Vegas) for further lessons. Here’s the hitch … I’m now having a bit of a hard time hitting irons … but that’s another story. I borrowed a set from my son but I now want my own. I know that this stage of learning is most likely my formative period so I am looking to do what is right for my long term game and I’m willing to put in the time and pay my dues. I get to the range 4 – 5 times per week and can play every day if that is what I choose to do. On to the I’ve been told the cavity back clubs such as X-16 and the like are very easy to hit but will mask some faults, hiding a less than perfect swing. It is also my understanding that forged clubs are less forgiving and have a longer learning curve but will lead to a better swing and game in the long run. I’ve also seen the hybrids such as the Hogan Apex. I’ve hit all 3 flavors but truthfully can’t discern the differences at this point … except that a bad hit with a blade tends to hurt and a good hit goes long, straight and feels like I hit a cotton ball. I’m also being told that if I start with CBs I can get out a play decent in short order but if I switch later I’ll have to relearn much and for certain faults it might be too late. Also, if I start with forged my swing/game will be better in the long run What type should I start with? Thanks in advance, FreddyV
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Excuse me … I stand corrected. I did indeed mean Blades vs. Cavity Back. Thanks for all the replies and advice so far … I’m sure the issue has been beat to death but I’m new so thanks for the slack. My current instructor says I need stiff (S300) and said I could learn blades fairly quick and very forgiving CBs would be somewhat of an injustice in the long term. So far I’ve hit Hogan blades, Ping I3+, I3+ Blades and I’ve been using my son’s set of Ping Eye 2s. All 4 "feel" good but I have to admit that the "sense and feel" of a truly clean hit off the I3+ blades and Hogan Apex feels great. Also I hate buying twice … yes, I know I’ll probably buy 10 sets over the years but I have this overwhelming sense at this beginning stage that I should get and need what’s best for me so I’ve been putting myself through the ringer over the decision. I just don’t want to get or do anything at my green stage that will catch up with me later. I’m looking and thinking long term. I think I put less thought into getting married. I now view golf as a lifestyle as well as a sport and the idea of doing anything dumb in my formative stage erks the hell out of me. Thanks, FreddyV
I don’t think you can go wrong w/ the Hogans. Since you are–quite smartly, BTW–getting lessons, and your instructor thinks that blades would work for you, get the Hogans. Beautiful clubs, IMO. I agree w/ the instructor, very forgiving CBs are clubs you’ll outgrow. And keep up w/ the lessons and practicing. Mike – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m new to the game (1 month). Having a son that works at Desert Pines Las Vegas I have ample discounted range and tee time. I learned to hit a driver first which I was told was taking the hard route but I can hit long, straight drives now. I promptly signed up for lessons. Using Nike Learning Center now (you get 4 times what you pay in free goods and time) but have already contacted Jimmy Bullard and the Harmon boys (Las Vegas) for further lessons. Here’s the hitch … I’m now having a bit of a hard time hitting irons … but that’s another story. I borrowed a set from my son but I now want my own. I know that this stage of learning is most likely my formative period so I am looking to do what is right for my long term game and I’m willing to put in the time and pay my dues. I get to the range 4 – 5 times per week and can play every day if that is what I choose to do. On to the I’ve been told the cavity back clubs such as X-16 and the like are very easy to hit but will mask some faults, hiding a less than perfect swing. It is also my understanding that forged clubs are less forgiving and have a longer learning curve but will lead to a better swing and game in the long run. I’ve also seen the hybrids such as the Hogan Apex. I’ve hit all 3 flavors but truthfully can’t discern the differences at this point … except that a bad hit with a blade tends to hurt and a good hit goes long, straight and feels like I hit a cotton ball. I’m also being told that if I start with CBs I can get out a play decent in short order but if I switch later I’ll have to relearn much and for certain faults it might be too late. Also, if I start with forged my swing/game will be better in the long run What type should I start with? Thanks in advance, FreddyV
– Mike Dalecki GCA Accredited Clubmaker http://clubdoctor.com RSG-Wisconsin 2003 Information: http://dalecki.net/rsgwis2003 RSG Roll Call: http://rec-sport-golf.com/members/?rollcall=daleckim I do not patronize spammers. Help keep RSG clean!
Excuse me … I stand corrected. I did indeed mean Blades vs. Cavity Back. Thanks for all the replies and advice so far … I’m sure the issue has been beat to death but I’m new so thanks for the slack. My current instructor says I need stiff (S300) and said I could learn blades fairly quick and very forgiving CBs would be somewhat of an injustice in the long term. So far I’ve hit Hogan blades, Ping I3+, I3+ Blades and I’ve been using my son’s set of Ping Eye 2s. All 4 "feel" good but I have to admit that the "sense and feel" of a truly clean hit off the I3+ blades and Hogan Apex feels great. Also I hate buying twice … yes, I know I’ll probably buy 10 sets over the years but I have this overwhelming sense at this beginning stage that I should get and need what’s best for me so I’ve been putting myself through the ringer over the decision. I just don’t want to get or do anything at my green stage that will catch up with me later. I’m looking and thinking long term. I think I put less thought into getting married. I now view golf as a lifestyle as well as a sport and the idea of doing anything dumb in my formative stage erks the hell out of me. Thanks, FreddyV
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m new to the game (1 month). Having a son that works at Desert Pines Las Vegas I have ample discounted range and tee time. I learned to hit a driver first which I was told was taking the hard route but I can hit long, straight drives now. I promptly signed up for lessons. Using Nike Learning Center now (you get 4 times what you pay in free goods and time) but have already contacted Jimmy Bullard and the Harmon boys (Las Vegas) for further lessons. Here’s the hitch … I’m now having a bit of a hard time hitting irons … but that’s another story. I borrowed a set from my son but I now want my own. I know that this stage of learning is most likely my formative period so I am looking to do what is right for my long term game and I’m willing to put in the time and pay my dues. I get to the range 4 – 5 times per week and can play every day if that is what I choose to do. On to the I’ve been told the cavity back clubs such as X-16 and the like are very easy to hit but will mask some faults, hiding a less than perfect swing. It is also my understanding that forged clubs are less forgiving and have a longer learning curve but will lead to a better swing and game in the long run. I’ve also seen the hybrids such as the Hogan Apex. I’ve hit all 3 flavors but truthfully can’t discern the differences at this point … except that a bad hit with a blade tends to hurt and a good hit goes long, straight and feels like I hit a cotton ball. I’m also being told that if I start with CBs I can get out a play decent in short order but if I switch later I’ll have to relearn much and for certain faults it might be too late. Also, if I start with forged my swing/game will be better in the long run What type should I start with? Thanks in advance, FreddyV
BTW, Golfsmith has their Tour Cavity Forged heads on sale for 19.98 each (regularly $25.50). Dave Clary/Corpus Christi, Tx Home: http://home.stx.rr.com/dclary Never Forget: http://www.politicsandprotest.org RSG Roll Call http://www.rec-sport-golf.com/members/?rollcall=claryd
As others will tell you, there’s no necessary connection between the style of clubhead and method of manufacture. As a beginner you’d likely be more happy with cavity back clubs, since you’re going to mis-hit more often than not. There’s a whole world of cavity back clubs, from low-handicap player’s designs like the Mizuno MP-30 to ultra-forgiving game improvement clubs like the X-16’s you mention. I’d suggest something in between – a reasonable cavity that will be more forgiving than a blade, but without the extreme bottom-weighting and offset of the X-16 that could be a hindrance when you improve. There are dozens if not hundreds of brands of irons in this range. But whatever clubs you choose, make sure you get fitted for proper shaft flex, lie angle, grip, etc. These are just as important as the style of clubhead you choose. Also, try to fight off the influence of testosterone when buying clubs. If the person fitting you suggests a senior flex shaft, then get a senior flex shaft. If the person fitting you gently suggests something like an X-16 after looking at your swing, be honest with yourself in assessing your potential future level of skill. You will not enjoy the game if you buy stiff-shafted blades and can’t hit them.
I’ve been told the cavity back clubs such as X-16 and the like are very easy to hit but will mask some faults, hiding a less than perfect swing. It is also my understanding that forged clubs are less forgiving and have a longer learning curve but will lead to a better swing and game in the long run.
You are mixing apples and oranges. "Cavity Back" is a design style. "Forged" is a manufacturing process. Many people confuse this too, which is one reason there is so much mystique surrounding forged irons. Generally, cavity back irons are considered to be more forgiving, whether they are forged or cast. Blade or muscle back irons are considered to be less forgiving, but easier to curve left or right, than cavity backs. Blades or muscle backs usually only come in forged, hence some of the confusion. I’ve also seen the hybrids such as the Hogan Apex. I’ve hit all 3 flavors but truthfully can’t discern the differences at this point …
That’s probably because there really isn’t much difference… except that a bad hit with a blade tends to hurt and a good hit goes long, straight and feels like I hit a cotton ball. I’m also being told that if I start with CBs I can get out a play decent in short order but if I switch later I’ll have to relearn much and for certain faults it might be too
late. Nah. Get some decent cavity back clubs, just like some of the pros. You’ll see mishits by how they fly in the air (or don’t.)
Just one misconception to clear up–it’s not either…or. You can buy forged cavity backs (golfsmith, kzg for starters). Forged refers to the process used to make the clubheads (forged versus cast). What you are really asking (and didn’t know it) is the old "blades vs cavity back" question which arises here often. And with that I’ll leave it to someone who has actually hit blades (and/or musclebacks to further cloud the issue). :-) Dave Clary/Corpus Christi, Tx Home: http://home.stx.rr.com/dclary Never Forget: http://www.politicsandprotest.org RSG Roll Call http://www.rec-sport-golf.com/members/?rollcall=claryd
I’m new to the game (1 month). Having a son that works at Desert Pines Las Vegas I have ample discounted range and tee time. I learned to hit a driver first which I was told was taking the hard route but I can hit long, straight drives now. I promptly signed up for lessons. Using Nike Learning Center now (you get 4 times what you pay in free goods and time) but have already contacted Jimmy Bullard and the Harmon boys (Las Vegas) for further lessons. Here’s the hitch … I’m now having a bit of a hard time hitting irons … but that’s another story. I borrowed a set from my son but I now want my own. I know that this stage of learning is most likely my formative period so I am looking to do what is right for my long term game and I’m willing to put in the time and pay my dues. I get to the range 4 – 5 times per week and can play every day if that is what I choose to do. On to the I’ve been told the cavity back clubs such as X-16 and the like are very easy to hit but will mask some faults, hiding a less than perfect swing. It is also my understanding that forged clubs are less forgiving and have a longer learning curve but will lead to a better swing and game in the long run. I’ve also seen the hybrids such as the Hogan Apex. I’ve hit all 3 flavors but truthfully can’t discern the differences at this point … except that a bad hit with a blade tends to hurt and a good hit goes long, straight and feels like I hit a cotton ball. I’m also being told that if I start with CBs I can get out a play decent in short order but if I switch later I’ll have to relearn much and for certain faults it might be too late. Also, if I start with forged my swing/game will be better in the long run What type should I start with? Thanks in advance, FreddyV