what do you make of this?
Mental illness. Ed
So, is he saying that his proxy got bumped, and he was mad about that? Probably. The sad thing is if he loses, he is not obilgated to accept second chance offer should the winning bidder doesn’t pay up so he doesn’t have to worry about the $475.
When I typed that I wasn’t clear that he *was* the second place bidder. I thought he was still in first, but had just been bumped up by an underbidder. A
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – what do you make of this? "When I see "brand new" members bidding at the last minute, i have to scratch my head and wonder why. The high bidder was created today and i’ve played this game before. If your latest bid is not retracted I will not buy the club at my last offer of $475." He’s been on ebay since Nov ‘04 with 87.5%….7 positive, 1 negative, 9 total. He left his 1st transaction feedback in April: "Over a week and still havent received" I sure blocked this person in a hurry! Wow. He’s accusing you of shilling. Damn! I hadn’t thought of that — but it sure makes his comment clearer. What an asshole! Cancel his other bid, while you’re at it, Jean.
I blocked him on both my selling accounts right after his email….but wait there was a part deux: "You need to understand my frustration. I have been trying to purchase a set of Big Berthas for the last week. It seems that every time the auction is about to close a "new" bidder enters the auction and jacks the price up. When I look at the "properties" of the "new" bidder it seems that they are newly created and used to drive up the price. I apologize if I offended you, but please feel my pain. I’m just a guy who loves to golf and wants to replace my 14 year old Ping Zing 2s with a new set of Big Berthas" Well, he won’t be buying them from ME. thanks guys!
muttered something like: Well, he won’t be buying them from ME.
Amen. If you’re supposed to sympathise with his pain, he can sympathize with yours too–you’re just a seller who’s been accused of dishonesty by a total stranger based on his experiences with people you don’t know. No need to make his problem into your problem. -Bertha — No one can ever know for sure what a deserted area looks like. –George Carlin
I am the seller and that was all he wrote me. Peculiar, isn’t it? Scary too!
what were the bids of that seller in relationship to others? Buck — But that’s just my opinion.
muttered something like: what do you make of this? "When I see "brand new" members bidding at the last minute, i have to scratch my head and wonder why. The high bidder was created today and i’ve played this game before. If your latest bid is not retracted I will not buy the club at my last offer of $475."
So… now that he’s not high bidder any more, he won’t buy the club? That kind of goes without saying, doesn’t it? I sure blocked this person in a hurry!
Good call. Might want to retract his bids too. And then reply with "as per your request I have retracted your latest bid. :) -Bertha — "Where do we find a precept in the Bible for Creeds, Confessions, Doctrines and Oaths, and whole carloads of other trumpery that we find religion encumbered with these days?" — John Adams
Good call. Might want to retract his bids too. And then reply with "as per your request I have retracted your latest bid. :)
I’d have blocked him from further bidding, but left his losing bid in place to keep the final value up. There’s almost no chance that he’d and up winning – and if he wins and turns into a non-payer he can be NPBd and negged if necessary. If he’s that worried he can cancel his own bid. — Crazy Dog wfh at crazy hyphen dog dot fsnet dot co dot uk
So, is he saying that his proxy got bumped, and he was mad about that?
Probably. The sad thing is if he loses, he is not obilgated to accept second chance offer should the winning bidder doesn’t pay up so he doesn’t have to worry about the $475. — When you hear the toilet flush, and hear the words "uh oh", it’s already too late. - by anonymous Mother in Austin, TX To reply, replace digi.mon with phreaker.net
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – what do you make of this? "When I see "brand new" members bidding at the last minute, i have to scratch my head and wonder why. The high bidder was created today and i’ve played this game before. If your latest bid is not retracted I will not buy the club at my last offer of $475." He’s been on ebay since Nov ‘04 with 87.5%….7 positive, 1 negative, 9 total. He left his 1st transaction feedback in April: "Over a week and still havent received" I sure blocked this person in a hurry! Wow. He’s accusing you of shilling.
Damn! I hadn’t thought of that — but it sure makes his comment clearer. What an asshole! Cancel his other bid, while you’re at it, Jean. — Ty Who is mostly just a slightly skewed Donna Reed A patriot must always be ready to defend his country against his government. –Edward Abbey
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – what do you make of this? "When I see "brand new" members bidding at the last minute, i have to scratch my head and wonder why. The high bidder was created today and i’ve played this game before. If your latest bid is not retracted I will not buy the club at my last offer of $475." He’s been on ebay since Nov ‘04 with 87.5%….7 positive, 1 negative, 9 total. He left his 1st transaction feedback in April: "Over a week and still havent received" I sure blocked this person in a hurry! Wow. He’s accusing you of shilling. Kris yeah, like I’m going to be shilling….I don’t need it with 99.8%, 3730 positives, 8 negs out of an overall of 4113.
A 10-stepper 
I wonder if there is a way to report him to ebay? not that it would accomplish anything…just might feel vindicated somehow.
Does blocking him remove his bid? I’d have been sure to do so. Kris
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – what do you make of this? "When I see "brand new" members bidding at the last minute, i have to scratch my head and wonder why. The high bidder was created today and i’ve played this game before. If your latest bid is not retracted I will not buy the club at my last offer of $475." He’s been on ebay since Nov ‘04 with 87.5%….7 positive, 1 negative, 9 total. He left his 1st transaction feedback in April: "Over a week and still havent received" I sure blocked this person in a hurry! Wow. He’s accusing you of shilling. Kris
yeah, like I’m going to be shilling….I don’t need it with 99.8%, 3730 positives, 8 negs out of an overall of 4113. I wonder if there is a way to report him to ebay? not that it would accomplish anything…just might feel vindicated somehow.
what do you make of this? "When I see "brand new" members bidding at the last minute, i have to scratch my head and wonder why. The high bidder was created today and i’ve played this game before. If your latest bid is not retracted I will not buy the club at my last offer of $475." He’s been on ebay since Nov ‘04 with 87.5%….7 positive, 1 negative, 9 total. He left his 1st transaction feedback in April: "Over a week and still havent received" I sure blocked this person in a hurry!
Wow. He’s accusing you of shilling. Kris
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – what do you make of this? "When I see "brand new" members bidding at the last minute, i have to scratch my head and wonder why. The high bidder was created today and i’ve played this game before. If your latest bid is not retracted I will not buy the club at my last offer of $475." He’s been on ebay since Nov ‘04 with 87.5%….7 positive, 1 negative, 9 total. He left his 1st transaction feedback in April: "Over a week and still havent received" I sure blocked this person in a hurry! I’m unable to make anything of that. Is the first paragraph something that some other person sent to you? Are you the buyer? Seller? Craig
I am the seller and that was all he wrote me. Peculiar, isn’t it? Scary too!
what do you make of this? "When I see "brand new" members bidding at the last minute, i have to scratch my head and wonder why. The high bidder was created today and i’ve played this game before. If your latest bid is not retracted I will not buy the club at my last offer of $475." He’s been on ebay since Nov ‘04 with 87.5%….7 positive, 1 negative, 9 total. He left his 1st transaction feedback in April: "Over a week and still havent received" I sure blocked this person in a hurry!
I’m unable to make anything of that. Is the first paragraph something that some other person sent to you? Are you the buyer? Seller? Craig
what do you make of this? "When I see "brand new" members bidding at the last minute, i have to scratch my head and wonder why. The high bidder was created today and i’ve played this game before. If your latest bid is not retracted I will not buy the club at my last offer of $475." He’s been on ebay since Nov ‘04 with 87.5%….7 positive, 1 negative, 9 total. He left his 1st transaction feedback in April: "Over a week and still havent received" I sure blocked this person in a hurry!
So, is he saying that his proxy got bumped, and he was mad about that? A
what do you make of this? "When I see "brand new" members bidding at the last minute, i have to scratch my head and wonder why. The high bidder was created today and i’ve played this game before. If your latest bid is not retracted I will not buy the club at my last offer of $475." He’s been on ebay since Nov ‘04 with 87.5%….7 positive, 1 negative, 9 total. He left his 1st transaction feedback in April: "Over a week and still havent received"
Off hand, it doesn’t look as if he’d buy it even if he won it. You got yourself a nutcase, it appears. I sure blocked this person in a hurry!
Good move. — Ty Who is mostly just a slightly skewed Donna Reed A patriot must always be ready to defend his country against his government. –Edward Abbey
Reply with a "California Howdy": m!m He’ll scratch his head on that one, too. :)
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – what do you make of this? "When I see "brand new" members bidding at the last minute, i have to scratch my head and wonder why. The high bidder was created today and i’ve played this game before. If your latest bid is not retracted I will not buy the club at my last offer of $475." He’s been on ebay since Nov ‘04 with 87.5%….7 positive, 1 negative, 9 total. He left his 1st transaction feedback in April: "Over a week and still havent received" I sure blocked this person in a hurry!
what do you make of this? "When I see "brand new" members bidding at the last minute, i have to scratch my head and wonder why. The high bidder was created today and i’ve played this game before. If your latest bid is not retracted I will not buy the club at my last offer of $475." He’s been on ebay since Nov ‘04 with 87.5%….7 positive, 1 negative, 9 total. He left his 1st transaction feedback in April: "Over a week and still havent received" I sure blocked this person in a hurry!
I didn’t state that they were identical. I did state that they are built to the same Federal Standard. That means they are quite similar in design.
I’m not sure on the validity of that statement. I’ll bet if one were to look one might find any number of different approaches to solving different issue via given sets of standards.one example which comes to mind was the issue of the grooves on ping golf clubs and those of others. Both were built to pga standards. But qualification was left to the interpretation of standards, resulting in different designs and different results. I’m willing to bet there are better examples out there. MLM
Per the Goodyear website (http://www.goodyear.com/rv/products/classes.html) they list 3 trailer rated tires: Marathon (ST) is recommended for 5W, TT and other trailers G614RST (ST) is recommended for 5W and TT Wrangler (LT) is recommended for 5W and Class B MH’s They do not list any other P, LT or RV tires for trailers nor any ST tires for motorized RV’s. I’m sure there is at least one among us who will point out that Goodyear doesn’t "forbid" using other tires and would therefore assume this implies that such use is OK. Personally I would base my tire purchase decision on the recommendations by the manufacturer. Use your own best judgement and buy whatever you feel is appropriate. CruzMastr
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – It’s time to replace the tires on my fifth wheel and I was thinking about switching from an ST ( Special Trailer ) to an LT ( Light Truck ) in a slighlty heavier range – like C to D. I’d like thoughts and opinions on such a move. TIA.
How do you conclude that some minimum federal standards makes the ST tire the same as the LT tire?
I didn’t state that they were identical. I did state that they are built to the same Federal Standard. That means they are quite similar in design. And yes I know P tires are different from LT tires just as ST tires are DIFFERENT from LT tires.
That statement leaves the wrong impression. ST and LT tires are quite similar, while P tires are far different from ST and LT tires. I don’t think I would put ST tires on my truck and LT tires on my trailer.
I wouldn’t put ST tires on my truck, but I might put LT tires on my trailer–just as do many trailer manufacturers. It just won’t be right.
Why would it not be "right"? — D.J., N8DO; FMCA 147762 davidjosborn at sbcglobal dot net
Per the Goodyear website
(http://www.goodyear.com/rv/products/classes.html) they list 3 trailer rated tires: Marathon (ST) is recommended for 5W, TT and other trailers G614RST (ST) is recommended for 5W and TT Wrangler (LT) is recommended for 5W and Class B MH’s They do not list any other P, LT or RV tires for trailers nor any ST tires for motorized RV’s. I’m sure there is at least one among us who will point out that Goodyear doesn’t "forbid" using other tires and would therefore assume this implies that such use is OK. Personally I would base my tire purchase decision on the recommendations by the manufacturer. Use your own best judgement and buy whatever you feel is appropriate.
Tires are controlled by the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards (FMVSS), which can be found at http://www.access.gpo.gov/nara/cfr/waisidx_00/49cfr571_00.html . Passenger tires are controlled by FMVSS 109 and FMVSS 120 and other tires are controlled by FMVSS 119 and FMVSS 120. Passenger tires must have their load ratings reduced by ten percent when they are used on vehicles other than passenger cars. Additional useful information can be found in the Goodyear "Engineering Data Over-The Road Truck Tires" book available at no charge from Goodyear. — D.J., N8DO; FMCA 147762 davidjosborn at sbcglobal dot net
DJ, Trailer tires are for trailers and truck tires are for trucks and like you said there is a difference. Some trailer manufactures do put on LT tires because they will "work". When I wear out my Goodyear Marathons load range "D" (2540 lbs) I will replace them with the same. I want the best tire for the application, thats why I will not use a LT tire on my trailer. Just for information I put over 8000 miles on my Marathons and they show little wear. Great tire! Enough of this tire Stuff I’m done
Hey TinFoil Dome, did you get what David said. Some manufacturers are equipping their 5th wheel trailers with LT tires. Glad you’re done with this tire stuff as you apparently don’t know what you’re talking about. HD in FL
Be aware that trailer tires have a compound that will hold up to more years of UV before drying out & cracking. Unless you’re putting on a lot of miles, chances are the tires will start to crack before they wear out if you switch to non trailer tires. -Jeff Deeney-
I question that. Maybe if the trailer sits for long periods that may be true but it doesn’t seem to be any different for ST or LT tires in the real world. Motorhomes certainly don’t use ST tires and they need new tires every 5 to 7 years same as trailers using ST tires. HD in FL
It’s time to replace the tires on my fifth wheel and I was thinking about switching from an ST ( Special Trailer ) to an LT ( Light Truck ) in a slighlty heavier range – like C to D. I’d like thoughts and opinions on such a move. TIA.
You didn’t say what size wheel this is on. However, if you’re talking about LR ‘C’ tires, they probably have 15" rims. Good luck finding an LT tire in that size. — James Summers 1996 turbo-diesel Chevy + 1994 30′ Carri-Lite fifth-wheel email to: UseNet1 ayt mcsummation dotting com
Be aware that trailer tires have a compound that will hold up to more years of UV before drying out & cracking. Unless you’re putting on a lot of miles, chances are the tires will start to crack before they wear out if you switch to non trailer tires. -Jeff Deeney-
Trailer tires are for trailers and truck tires are for trucks and like you said there is a difference. Some trailer manufactures do put on LT tires because they will "work".
They put LT tires on their trailers because they need the load-carrying capacity. When I wear out my Goodyear Marathons load range "D" (2540 lbs) I will replace them with the same.
What is the *measured* load on each tire? I want the best tire for the application, thats why I will not use a LT tire on my trailer.
LT tires *are* the "best tire for the application" on some trailers. Just for information I put over 8000 miles on my Marathons and they show little wear. Great tire!
I never indicated that they weren’t–although some people have had significant problems with them. Enough of this tire Stuff I’m done
Bye. — D.J., N8DO; FMCA 147762 davidjosborn at sbcglobal dot net
DJ, Trailer tires are for trailers and truck tires are for trucks and like you said there is a difference. Some trailer manufactures do put on LT tires because they will "work". When I wear out my Goodyear Marathons load range "D" (2540 lbs) I will replace them with the same. I want the best tire for the application, thats why I will not use a LT tire on my trailer. Just for information I put over 8000 miles on my Marathons and they show little wear. Great tire! Enough of this tire Stuff I’m done
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – How do you conclude that some minimum federal standards makes the ST tire the same as the LT tire? I didn’t state that they were identical. I did state that they are built to the same Federal Standard. That means they are quite similar in design. And yes I know P tires are different from LT tires just as ST tires are DIFFERENT from LT tires. That statement leaves the wrong impression. ST and LT tires are quite similar, while P tires are far different from ST and LT tires. I don’t think I would put ST tires on my truck and LT tires on my trailer. I wouldn’t put ST tires on my truck, but I might put LT tires on my trailer–just as do many trailer manufacturers. It just won’t be right. Why would it not be "right"? — D.J., N8DO; FMCA 147762 davidjosborn at sbcglobal dot net
The construction of trailer tires differ greatly from automotive tires.
I’m well aware of that fact–as my previous post indicated. LT tires are completely different from P tires. As I previously stated, LT and ST tires are built to the *same* Federal Standard. P tires are built to a completely *different* Federal Standard. LT and P tires have more flexable sidewalls and built with less material.
Once again: LT tires are completely *different* from P tires. Why can’t you understand that? The Goodyear Marathon is a excellent tire with heavy constuction.
I’m well aware of that fact. If you want proof of the tires construction and specifications I suggest you contact Goodyear Tire and Rubber.
I have Goodyear’s data book on their trailer and truck tires, and so I’m well aware of how they are constructed. And yes, the LT, ST and P that is stamped on the tire does mean something. It’s not just pretty decorations.
I’m well aware of that fact–as my previous post indicated. — D.J., N8DO; FMCA 147762 davidjosborn at sbcglobal dot net
How do you conclude that some minimum federal standards makes the ST tire the same as the LT tire? And yes I know P tires are different from LT tires just as ST tires are DIFFERENT from LT tires. I don’t think I would put ST tires on my truck and LT tires on my trailer. It just won’t be right.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – The construction of trailer tires differ greatly from automotive tires. I’m well aware of that fact–as my previous post indicated. LT tires are completely different from P tires. As I previously stated, LT and ST tires are built to the *same* Federal Standard. P tires are built to a completely *different* Federal Standard. LT and P tires have more flexable sidewalls and built with less material. Once again: LT tires are completely *different* from P tires. Why can’t you understand that? The Goodyear Marathon is a excellent tire with heavy constuction. I’m well aware of that fact. If you want proof of the tires construction and specifications I suggest you contact Goodyear Tire and Rubber. I have Goodyear’s data book on their trailer and truck tires, and so I’m well aware of how they are constructed. And yes, the LT, ST and P that is stamped on the tire does mean something. It’s not just pretty decorations. I’m well aware of that fact–as my previous post indicated. — D.J., N8DO; FMCA 147762 davidjosborn at sbcglobal dot net
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – It’s time to replace the tires on my fifth wheel and I was thinking about switching from an ST ( Special Trailer ) to an LT ( Light Truck ) in a slighlty heavier range – like C to D. I’d like thoughts and opinions on such a move. TIA. Many fifth-wheel trailers have LT tires. The only possible disadvantage that I can see is that (I believe) ST tires may be more resistant to UV damage from sunlight exposure. Therefore, I would keep the LT tires covered when not actually in use. Of course, if I had ST tires I would also keep *them*covered when not in use.
Good advice David. HD in FL
DJ Osborn The construction of trailer tires differ greatly from automotive tires. LT and P tires have more flexable sidewalls and built with less material. The Goodyear Marathon is a excellent tire with heavy constuction. If you want proof of the tires construction and specifications I suggest you contact Goodyear Tire and Rubber. And yes, the LT, ST and P that is stamped on the tire does mean something. It’s not just pretty decorations.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – These ‘Special Trailer’ (ST) tires have been constructed for better high speed durability and bruise resistance under heavy loads. I simply do not believe that statement. If you have some *evidence* to support it, then please provide it. If you don’t provide that evidence, then I’ll continue to believe the statement is false. Trailer tire construction varies substantially from automotive tires, therefore it is essential to choose the correct tire for your towing application. Trailer tires and truck tires are constructed to meet the same Federal Standard, and so there is very little difference between them. In general, trailer tires have the same load range (or ply) from bead to bead and are bias ply construction. That may have been the case at one time, but it is not generally the case now. This allows for a stiffer side wall which provides safer towing by helping to reduce trailer sway problems. The use of ‘Passenger Car’ (P) or ‘Light Truck (LT) tires a on a trailer is not recommended because their construction, usually radial or bias belted, allows for more flexible side walls. Passenger tires are not recommended on a trailer, and, in fact, must have their load capacity de-rated by ten percent when used on a trailer. However, ST and LT tires are very similar in construction, and I would be very surprised if a radial ST tire had stiffer sidewalls than did a radial LT tire in the same size and load rating. This could lead to increased trailer sway and loss of control. As noted above, there is very little difference between ST and LT tires in the same size and load rating. — D.J., N8DO; FMCA 147762 davidjosborn at sbcglobal dot net
It’s time to replace the tires on my fifth wheel and I was thinking about switching from an ST ( Special Trailer ) to an LT ( Light Truck ) in a slighlty heavier range – like C to D. I’d like thoughts and opinions on such a move. TIA.
Many fifth-wheel trailers have LT tires. The only possible disadvantage that I can see is that (I believe) ST tires may be more resistant to UV damage from sunlight exposure. Therefore, I would keep the LT tires covered when not actually in use. Of course, if I had ST tires I would also keep *them*covered when not in use. — D.J., N8DO; FMCA 147762 davidjosborn at sbcglobal dot net
That is my understanding of the ST tires also. However, I notice that a number of RV trailer manufacturers are now including LT tires as standard. So, is the LT ok to use in trailer service now?
These ‘Special Trailer’ (ST) tires have been constructed for better high speed durability and bruise resistance under heavy loads. Trailer tire construction varies substantially from automotive tires, therefore it is essential to choose the correct tire for your towing application. In general, trailer tires have the same load range (or ply) from bead to bead and are bias ply construction. This allows for a stiffer side wall which provides safer towing by helping to reduce trailer sway problems. The use of ‘Passenger Car’ (P) or ‘Light Truck (LT) tires a on a trailer is not recommended because their construction, usually radial or bias belted, allows for more flexible side walls. This could lead to increased trailer sway and loss of control.
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These ‘Special Trailer’ (ST) tires have been constructed for better high speed durability and bruise resistance under heavy loads.
I simply do not believe that statement. If you have some *evidence* to support it, then please provide it. If you don’t provide that evidence, then I’ll continue to believe the statement is false. Trailer tire construction varies substantially from automotive tires, therefore it is essential to choose the correct tire for your towing application.
Trailer tires and truck tires are constructed to meet the same Federal Standard, and so there is very little difference between them. In general, trailer tires have the same load range (or ply) from bead to bead and are bias ply construction.
That may have been the case at one time, but it is not generally the case now. This allows for a stiffer side wall which provides safer towing by helping to reduce trailer sway problems. The use of ‘Passenger Car’ (P) or ‘Light Truck (LT) tires a on a trailer is not recommended because their construction, usually radial or bias belted, allows for more flexible side walls.
Passenger tires are not recommended on a trailer, and, in fact, must have their load capacity de-rated by ten percent when used on a trailer. However, ST and LT tires are very similar in construction, and I would be very surprised if a radial ST tire had stiffer sidewalls than did a radial LT tire in the same size and load rating. This could lead to increased trailer sway and loss of control.
As noted above, there is very little difference between ST and LT tires in the same size and load rating. — D.J., N8DO; FMCA 147762 davidjosborn at sbcglobal dot net
It’s time to replace the tires on my fifth wheel and I was thinking about switching from an ST ( Special Trailer ) to an LT ( Light Truck ) in a slighlty heavier range – like C to D. I’d like thoughts and opinions on such a move. TIA.
These ‘Special Trailer’ (ST) tires have been constructed for better high speed durability and bruise resistance under heavy loads. Trailer tire construction varies substantially from automotive tires, therefore it is essential to choose the correct tire for your towing application. In general, trailer tires have the same load range (or ply) from bead to bead and are bias ply construction. This allows for a stiffer side wall which provides safer towing by helping to reduce trailer sway problems. The use of ‘Passenger Car’ (P) or ‘Light Truck (LT) tires a on a trailer is not recommended because their construction, usually radial or bias belted, allows for more flexible side walls. This could lead to increased trailer sway and loss of control.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – It’s time to replace the tires on my fifth wheel and I was thinking about switching from an ST ( Special Trailer ) to an LT ( Light Truck ) in a slighlty heavier range – like C to D. I’d like thoughts and opinions on such a move. TIA.
When I got my stand bag, I put a bunch of stuff in it that I might need. Finally I learned that its removable pocket was there for a reason, and now it is only attached when I use my SpeedCart. It really makes a difference leaving stuff behind.
Thanks for the good information – Sunday Bags, I saw a woman with one at the driving range but I never knew they were called that. Since I’m on a budget I might get the Sun Mountain Sunday (around $35) or maybe look for a zip-up type at local stores. Maybe I can convince myself to spring $100 for the 3.5 or 2.5 but I’m not sure at this point :)
Nike has a couple that can be had at pretty good price online. The Air Skinny and THE Skinny I believe. Neither are as light as the Ping though. Bryan
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Thanks for the good information – Sunday Bags, I saw a woman with one at the driving range but I never knew they were called that. Since I’m on a budget I might get the Sun Mountain Sunday (around $35) or maybe look for a zip-up type at local stores. Maybe I can convince myself to spring $100 for the 3.5 or 2.5 but I’m not sure at this point :)
I recently got into this game, and was wondering if there are any smaller or lighter alternatives to standard golf bags. Specifically I am looking for something which will perhaps hold fewer clubs (maybe 7-9 of em?). Does something like this exist?
I recently got into this game, and was wondering if there are any smaller or lighter alternatives to standard golf bags. Specifically I am looking for something which will perhaps hold fewer clubs (maybe 7-9 of em?). Does something like this exist?
http://www.pinggolf.com/products_bags_moon.html I’ve got a MacKenzie (which I’ve only used once since I bought it so late in the season): http://www.mackenziecompany.com/accessories.html It will hold 14 clubs and has two pockets. — http://rec-sport-golf.com/?rc=hayesd
you bet, check at your sporting goods outlet. some call them – weekenders. v
What bounce?….he’s worn most of it off, ’cause he hits that club so often and so solid. :-)
So I’m the only guy I know with a silver gunmetal wedge. Big deal… 
Actually, it’s pretty much intact, you know that? I must pinch with the leading edge, ’cause that’s where the finish is really worn. The paint’s still in the logo on the bottom…under the Bandon mud Runyan’s pretty incredible with that wedge. I think that type of shot (either high and landing like a sack of clams or low and severely spinning) just fits his eye and his swing type. Definitely doesn’t fit my eye or swing type for 99% of the shots I face, and being able to recognize that is the first step to learning *your* game, IMHO. If you do something that you can’t visualize…chances are you won’t be able to pull it off too successfully too often.
Exactly right. You have to be capable of at least visualizing the shot…although I do believe that with enough practice, you can visualize any shot (or have enough of an experience encyclopedia in your brain that you can make an educated guess). Best advice I ever read came from Penick’s Little Red Book – if you want to get good around the greens, bring your chipping club, your putter and one ball, and just get up and down. One chip, one putt, pick ball out of hole, repeat. You’ll discover new and creative ways to hit that club, and you’ll also gain enough confidence to hit some of the crazier shots (ie: opening the face way up, trapping it for extra spin, blading it deliberately…) Scott’s advice about finding a club you’re comfortable over is huge as well. I just reach for the 60* ’cause I’m the most comfortable with it – but it doesn’t mean I won’t use my other wedges…somewhat less than occasionally Seriously, I took the other path – I taught myself to adjust the trajectory of my shots with my lob wedge. Good enough for the girls I go with… Prof. Rev. Todd "Runyan" McGillivray, Esq. http://cplhicks.tripod.com/ Emailing me? tmcg at sasktel dot net. "Not sure what four nines does, but the ace, I think, is pretty high." – Danny Ocean, Ocean’s Eleven
With this much bounce, wouldn’t this be considered at 60* SW? Do you have a lower bounce wedge for tight lies? Quite possible…at that level of bounce, it plays like a SW in the traps, that’s for sure. Matter of fact, I don’t even open it if I want an explosion – I just hit about 2" behind the ball, straight on.
What bounce?….he’s worn most of it off, ’cause he hits that club so often and so solid. :-) Runyan’s pretty incredible with that wedge. I think that type of shot (either high and landing like a sack of clams or low and severely spinning) just fits his eye and his swing type. Definitely doesn’t fit my eye or swing type for 99% of the shots I face, and being able to recognize that is the first step to learning *your* game, IMHO. If you do something that you can’t visualize…chances are you won’t be able to pull it off too successfully too often. I like to hit the low shot as well, but with a little more release….especially from 20-70 yards. I had a 60* in my bag for about 4-5 years and hardly ever hit a good shot with it. When I took it out of my bag, it was a good thing. Of course, mine was a fairly low bounce version….maybe a higher bounce would serve me better? Nah, the gap wedge I replaced it with is a better weapon for me. With my 17 hcp ineptness, my 57* SW allows me to hit just about any decent shot I’d be able to with my 60. — Washington State University "That shot is impossible!…Jack Nicholson himself couldn’t make it!"– Homer Simpson
I have a Ping Eye2 60 degree lob wedge and it is the best club in my bag, i know i hit it from 100yds and closer and it saves me many times. practice with it
So, what do the rest of you think? Is the lob wedge the easiest or hardest club to hit on a regular basis?
Neither. The driver is the hardest. The lob wedge is second hardest for me. The putter is easiest. Among full swing clubs, the 7I is easiest cuz I practiced it the most. — Digital forums are a gift to the slow witted
Okay….I’ve seen a number of posts that talk about loving the lob wedge. I have a 7 index and got a 60 degree wedge for the 1st time this past year. Without a doubt…it is the hardest club I have ever hit! So, what do the rest of you think? Is the lob wedge the easiest or hardest club to hit on a regular basis? Bill
It’s good club to have in the bag,remember to fly it at the stick,you will get no roll as it will sit down and I use it from the bunkers where it is far better for me than a SW when close to the bunker lip.Also don’t use it on a bare lie.I use Wilson Staff 60 deg and it saves me shots.
I love mine but I don’t care for the full swing with it. 40 yds and in I have very good results with it, and I chip with it as often as the situation lets me.. like when there is very little green to work with. I also use it often in the sand.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Okay….I’ve seen a number of posts that talk about loving the lob wedge. I have a 7 index and got a 60 degree wedge for the 1st time this past year. Without a doubt…it is the hardest club I have ever hit! So, what do the rest of you think? Is the lob wedge the easiest or hardest club to hit on a regular basis? Bill
So, what do the rest of you think? Is the lob wedge the easiest or hardest club to hit on a regular basis?
It’s the easiest to hit a great wonderful shot with. And it is the easiest to hit an incredibly terrible shot with. (one can even miss by swinging UNDERNEITH the ball without moving it!). Depending on how you count drives that go out of bounds or shanks that is. I would say my skill level with a lob wedge is better for my game than my skill level with a driver is.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Okay….I’ve seen a number of posts that talk about loving the lob wedge. I have a 7 index and got a 60 degree wedge for the 1st time this past year. Without a doubt…it is the hardest club I have ever hit! So, what do the rest of you think? Is the lob wedge the easiest or hardest club to hit on a regular basis? Bill I’d say it’s harder for me. There’s just less room for error the higher the loft, and as Kenny notes, the bounce is important.
If you put a special grind on the bounce, you will increase your consistancy. Generally a fine buffing on the bench grinder will add I’ve found that especially on anything less than full swing, I have to maintain a very quiet lower body, essentially using an arms-only swing. But I sure would have a hard time without it! :)
I think it is important to have a quiet lower body as well, especially when you playing in a foursome on a quiet day, and you are having trouble with breaking wind during your swing. I haven’t found using an arms only swing helps very much though. It just makes me noisier until I can get to a bathroom or something like that. Then I need to say to the people in the foursome I apologize for passing gas because my lower body got too – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Mike — Mike Dalecki GCA Accredited Clubmaker http://clubdoctor.com RSG-Wisconsin 2003 Information: http://dalecki.net/rsgwis2003 RSG Roll Call: http://rec-sport-golf.com/members/?rollcall=daleckim I do not patronize spammers. Help keep RSG clean!
I was told that the new Cleveland 900 wedges play to a lower bounce than they are rated. I am not sure if this is true, it is just what I was told by a Cleveland rep that I ran into at the local golf shop here… Bryan
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I play a Cleveland Tour Action 900 60*, gunmetal. 12 degrees of bounce. With this much bounce, wouldn’t this be considered at 60* SW? Do you have a lower bounce wedge for tight lies? My 60* LW has just 3 degrees of bounce. I can use it for very tight lies to shorter rough. For deeper rough I use my 56* SW with 10 degrees of bounce. Scott Mc
I play a Cleveland Tour Action 900 60*, gunmetal. 12 degrees of bounce. With this much bounce, wouldn’t this be considered at 60* SW? Do you have a lower bounce wedge for tight lies?
Quite possible…at that level of bounce, it plays like a SW in the traps, that’s for sure. Matter of fact, I don’t even open it if I want an explosion – I just hit about 2" behind the ball, straight on. I carry a 54* Low Bounce TA 900, too (8* of bounce, I think)…but tight lie, great lie, lie I wouldn’t give to someone I hate – I play ‘em all with the 60*. And that’s no…well, you get the idea. Prof. Rev. Todd "Runyan" McGillivray, Esq. http://cplhicks.tripod.com/ Emailing me? tmcg at sasktel dot net. "Not sure what four nines does, but the ace, I think, is pretty high." – Danny Ocean, Ocean’s Eleven
I play a Cleveland Tour Action 900 60*, gunmetal. 12 degrees of bounce.
With this much bounce, wouldn’t this be considered at 60* SW? Do you have a lower bounce wedge for tight lies? My 60* LW has just 3 degrees of bounce. I can use it for very tight lies to shorter rough. For deeper rough I use my 56* SW with 10 degrees of bounce. Scott Mc
So, what do the rest of you think? Is the lob wedge the easiest or hardest club to hit on a regular basis? Bill
very hard to chip with.practice full swings, determine carry then when lie is correct (fluffy- not tight) ,you can be very effective with it. I hit mine about 105 yds, but can choke it down or open face to about 70 yds full.forget about chipping with it.-Andy
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -’ve found that especially on anything less than full swing, I have to maintain a very quiet lower body, essentially using an arms-only swing. But I sure would have a hard time without it! :) Mike — Mike Dalecki GCA Accredited Clubmaker http://clubdoctor.com RSG-Wisconsin 2003 Information: http://dalecki.net/rsgwis2003 RSG Roll Call: http://rec-sport-golf.com/members/?rollcall=daleckim I do not patronize spammers. Help keep RSG clean!
Hey Mike – Do you have any l wedges on your web site for sale?
I’ve found that especially on anything less than full swing, I have to maintain a very quiet lower body, essentially using an arms-only swing.
When I’m having problems with my less than full swing pitch shots it’s from an overactive lower body. The cure is normally narrowing my stance and all is well again. Scott Mc
It is the hardest club to hit. I put a graphite shaft in mine and then I could swing it faster which helped a lot.So now I can use it on long par 5’s. I couldn’t do that with a steel shaft. If you don’t want a lot of spin you need to skull the ball and you will get more distance. Don’t worry though because you probably won’t need to take a divot and replace
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Okay….I’ve seen a number of posts that talk about loving the lob wedge. I have a 7 index and got a 60 degree wedge for the 1st time this past year. Without a doubt…it is the hardest club I have ever hit! So, what do the rest of you think? Is the lob wedge the easiest or hardest club to hit on a regular basis? Bill
So, what do the rest of you think? Is the lob wedge the easiest or hardest club to hit on a regular basis?
In my experience it was the hardest to learn to hit, and even today I have trouble with full swings. When pointing this out to my instructor, he said I was trying to hit it too hard and that I should NEVER swing so hard with it as I more often than not get a low boring punch type shot that goes 20 yards farther than intended. However, I am very comfortable now with anything 50yrds in. — bill-o
<snip My bread and butter chip is one that only gets about waist high and flies about 2/3 of the way to the hole, then hits, hops, spins hard and trickles the rest of the way.
That used to be my bread and butter shot too, but for some reason that shot has left my repertoire this year. I just can’t seem to make it anymore. Hopefully it will just as mysteriously reappear next season..;-) — David Sneddon Hi-Tech Turf Synthetic Turf Applications Tel: 519-259-2092
Okay….I’ve seen a number of posts that talk about loving the lob wedge. I have a 7 index and got a 60 degree wedge for the 1st time this past year. Without a doubt…it is the hardest club I have ever hit! So, what do the rest of you think? Is the lob wedge the easiest or hardest club to hit on a regular basis?
I play a Cleveland Tour Action 900 60*, gunmetal. 12 degrees of bounce. I play this off of an 11. And they’ll take my lob wedge when they pry my cold, dead hands off it… I play every single shot from 90 yards in with it. Full, 3/4, pitches, chips, sand shots (picks and explosions), bladed putts, flops, checks, this really fun knockdown that spins…name it, I play it. My bread and butter chip is one that only gets about waist high and flies about 2/3 of the way to the hole, then hits, hops, spins hard and trickles the rest of the way. So, I consider it not only the easiest but the most reliable club I hit. Obviously, I practice a *lot* with it. You have to have complete self confidence to hit that club with any degree of reliability…and I’ve actually pushed myself into the delusional stages on occasion, with interesting results (ask Newell about the cart path at White Bear Lake I was the one yelling at Robert Allenby on 16: "You can hit that!!!!" Prof. Rev. Todd "Runyan" McGillivray, Esq. http://cplhicks.tripod.com/ Emailing me? tmcg at sasktel dot net. "Not sure what four nines does, but the ace, I think, is pretty high." – Danny Ocean, Ocean’s Eleven
Okay….I’ve seen a number of posts that talk about loving the lob wedge. I have a 7 index and got a 60 degree wedge for the 1st time this past year. Without a doubt…it is the hardest club I have ever hit! So, what do the rest of you think? Is the lob wedge the easiest or hardest club to hit on a regular basis? Bill
From this Bill it is my bread and butter club..have a 60 degree no bounce and from 70 yards in requiring carry and loft I couldnt live without it. I practice a lot with it and its the easiest club for me. Most of the courses here in south Florida, esp. in winter season, have bare tight lies, hard bunker sand, so this is a must have club for me, IMO. Bounce is not good! good luck
i was doing okay with my lob wedge around the green and from 50 yards or so in. now i use the 7 iron with a putting motion (if the approach allows it) and my results are MUCH better. 7 iron has the same loft as those chipper clubs apparently. i know this does not really answer the question, but my 0.02c anyway. 
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Okay….I’ve seen a number of posts that talk about loving the lob wedge. I have a 7 index and got a 60 degree wedge for the 1st time this past year. Without a doubt…it is the hardest club I have ever hit! So, what do the rest of you think? Is the lob wedge the easiest or hardest club to hit on a regular basis? Bill
bounce – something like 14 or 15 degrees. The second was a Dynacraft that had no bounce. I couldn’t do anything with either one of those. The latest one is a Tom Wishon model that has 6 degrees bounce. That one, so far, is staying in the bag. For me, it seems that a moderate amount of bounce is necessary in a L wedge to make it useful. Kenny
I had a similar experience. My Toski L wedge was of the knife edge variety. Good for hard pan but I trouble with it in any other kind of lie. My Golfsmth Tour Cavity Forged has 5 dgs of bounce and I’ve used it successfully many times. When I manage to find a little time to practice, it’s the club I work on. Dave Clary/Corpus Christi, Tx Home: http://home.stx.rr.com/dclary RSG Roll Call http://www.rec-sport-golf.com/members/?rollcall=claryd
Okay….I’ve seen a number of posts that talk about loving the lob wedge. I have a 7 index and got a 60 degree wedge for the 1st time this past year. Without a doubt…it is the hardest club I have ever hit! So, what do the rest of you think? Is the lob wedge the easiest or hardest club to hit on a regular basis? Bill
I’d say it’s harder for me. There’s just less room for error the higher the loft, and as Kenny notes, the bounce is important. I’ve found that especially on anything less than full swing, I have to maintain a very quiet lower body, essentially using an arms-only swing. But I sure would have a hard time without it! :) Mike — Mike Dalecki GCA Accredited Clubmaker http://clubdoctor.com RSG-Wisconsin 2003 Information: http://dalecki.net/rsgwis2003 RSG Roll Call: http://rec-sport-golf.com/members/?rollcall=daleckim I do not patronize spammers. Help keep RSG clean!
Okay….I’ve seen a number of posts that talk about loving the lob wedge. I have a 7 index and got a 60 degree wedge for the 1st time this past year. Without a doubt…it is the hardest club I have ever hit! So, what do the rest of you think? Is the lob wedge the easiest or hardest club to hit on a regular basis? Bill
I have no real index but I have been averaging around 20 over and dropping, so FWIW: It depends, I find mine no harder to hit than a sand-wedge or pitching wedge from around 70-80 yards out. I do not chip with it, that is a bitch, i use anything from SW to 3w for chipping, it’s very hard to accurately chip with such a low-bounce/high-loft club IMHO. Flop shots are easy from the proper type of lie: a little bit fluffy from the rough is the easiest. It’s pretty hard to hit one straight up from the fairway, but with a LW it’s not so hard to hit a high-short short that stops fast and either jerks right or left (with a high spin ball). The main problems I have had with a lob wedge is trying to chip with it, so I don’t. I pitch all the time with it, high trajectory, high spin, very nice. My friend hates the club. I also use mine out of the sand most of the time. I basically hit a flop shot that cuts under the ball (i open the face and hinge/cock my wrist severely and slice the club right under the ball), it comes out high and soft and (stops after a bounce)/(jerks to the right), a very useful shot in a short sided bunker (unfortunately I haven’t yet learned how to hit a sand shot that comes out an runs… which I needed yesterday). The downside, if you hit fat the ball is going nowhere (see davis love), but I can do the same thing with any club, if you try and flop from the wrong lie you can go right under the ball and not even move it. Useful club for specific shots IMO. — Bollod
Okay….I’ve seen a number of posts that talk about loving the lob wedge. I have a 7 index and got a 60 degree wedge for the 1st time this past year. Without a doubt…it is the hardest club I have ever hit! So, what do the rest of you think? Is the lob wedge the easiest or hardest club to hit on a regular basis? Bill
Okay….I’ve seen a number of posts that talk about loving the lob wedge. I have a 7 index and got a 60 degree wedge for the 1st time this past year. Without a doubt…it is the hardest club I have ever hit! So, what do the rest of you think? Is the lob wedge the easiest or hardest club to hit on a regular basis? Bill
For me, it’s a lot closer to the hardest than the easiest!!! I’m on my third L-wedge, and it’s the only one of the three that I could ever do anything with. The first was a Ping that had some incredible amount of bounce – something like 14 or 15 degrees. The second was a Dynacraft that had no bounce. I couldn’t do anything with either one of those. The latest one is a Tom Wishon model that has 6 degrees bounce. That one, so far, is staying in the bag. For me, it seems that a moderate amount of bounce is necessary in a L wedge to make it useful. Kenny — Kenny Stultz – Troll and SPAM intolerant RSG Rollcall: http://rec-sport-golf.com/members/?rollcall=stultzk "Golf is the only sport where a precise knowledge of the Rules can earn one a reputation for poor sportsmanship"
Titleist doesn’t allow online merchants to print the price on the website for their balls. You have to wait until it’s in your basket. Several other ball companies do this as well. Personally, I think it’s stupid. Reiver
How do you view this form of merchandising? I take it as an inconvenience to a potential customer. Is it because of – supply, and demand regulating the selling price, or is it to keep the competition – in the dark. Regardless – I haven’t found an item yet that – caused me to call. This method must be effective to some extent – it is still being used. Just curious. v fe
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – How do you view this form of merchandising? I take it as an inconvenience to a potential customer. I don’t know why they do it, but I would suspect fluctuating prices. Regardless, it’s a complete put-off for me. I figure if they can’t publish their best price, they just want an opportunity to pitch me. That means that they don’t understand that net-shopping is practically synonymous with price-shopping. If that’s the case, I figure they’re trying to compete on some factor I don’t care about.
The above messages are correct. I owned a retail store in a different sporting goods industry and the manufacturers always had us sign a "minimum advertised price" agreement in the pre-season if we wanted any kind of volume discount. The industry I was in allowed discounts up to 30% below wholesale for the big dealers. If I’d been allowed to advertise the best price I could give it simply would have killed off all the smaller dealers. Not good for the industry as a whole. Call for price is to your advantage, not meant to screw you. With the Internet it is incredibly easy to get dozens of outlets competing for your business. Call around until you find a company that not only offers you a great price, but also makes an effort to determine your actuall needs (not always the same place). —-== Posted via Newsfeed.Com – Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==—- http://www.newsfeed.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 100,000 Newsgroups —= 19 East/West-Coast Specialized Servers – Total Privacy via Encryption =—
How do you view this form of merchandising? I take it as an inconvenience to a potential customer. I don’t know why they do it, but I would suspect fluctuating prices. Regardless, it’s a complete put-off for me. I figure if they can’t publish their best price, they just want an opportunity to pitch me. That means that they don’t understand that net-shopping is practically synonymous with price-shopping. If that’s the case, I figure they’re trying to compete on some factor I don’t care about.
How do you view this form of merchandising? I take it as an inconvenience to a potential customer. I don’t know why they do it, but I would suspect fluctuating prices. Regardless, it’s a complete put-off for me. I figure if they can’t publish their best price, they just want an opportunity to pitch me. That means that they don’t understand that net-shopping is practically synonymous with price-shopping. If that’s the case, I figure they’re trying to compete on some factor I don’t care about.
That is done when the manufacturer will not allow a retailer to advertise a discount. The manufacturer believes that a low advertised price reflects a decrease in percieved value of the product. The manufacturer also will sometimes do this to protect other distribution that they do not want to lose…i.e. Ping has always wanted to protect their distribution through the local PGA pro shops at golf clubhouses. If the price is always advertised lower by mass retailers, the buying public won’t buy through the ‘green-grass’ shops. Then PING could lose that sourse of distribution.
How do you view this form of merchandising? I take it as an inconvenience to a potential customer. Is it because of – supply, and demand regulating the selling price, or is it to keep the competition – in the dark. Regardless – I haven’t found an item yet that – caused me to call. This method must be effective to some extent – it is still being used. Just curious. v
Hi, This is a follow-up to my question on Fila graphite shafts, which a clubmaker is offerring to make for me on PI3+ clones with graphite stiff and a torque of 3. They are advertising on EBAY 169.99 plus shipping plus throwing in both the 52 and 56 wedges…I’m currently playing ping zing clones (otherwise known as system 5 heads) with s100 stainless shafts, and am trying to figure if it’s worth a try on the graphite side…so graphite users, please reply, and ANYONE with any knowledge on the Fila grahites, I’d appreciate your interest too! Thanks, Rusty
Hi, This is a follow-up to my question on Fila graphite shafts, which a clubmaker is offerring to make for me on PI3+ clones with graphite stiff and a torque of 3. They are advertising on EBAY 169.99 plus shipping plus throwing in both the 52 and 56 wedges…I’m currently playing ping zing clones (otherwise known as system 5 heads) with s100 stainless shafts, and am trying to figure if it’s worth a try on the graphite side…so graphite users, please reply, and ANYONE with any knowledge on the Fila grahites, I’d appreciate your interest too! Thanks, Rusty
AFAIK, Fila does not make graphite shafts. They, like a lot of OEM’s, have their shafts made for them by various companies, such as Adila, Rapport, True-Temper etc. You have to be careful here, since there are a lot of graphite shafts made by lower end companies, where cost of production is paramount and quality is no where to be seen. Why do you figure you need graphite rather than steel shafts??? — David Sneddon Hi-Tech Turf Synthetic Turf Applications ==
Hi, This is a follow-up to my question on Fila graphite shafts, which a clubmaker is offerring to make for me on PI3+ clones with graphite stiff and a torque of 3. They are advertising on EBAY 169.99 plus shipping plus throwing in both the 52 and 56 wedges…I’m currently playing ping zing clones (otherwise known as system 5 heads) with s100 stainless shafts, and am trying to figure if it’s worth a try on the graphite side…so graphite users, please reply, and ANYONE with any knowledge on the Fila grahites, I’d appreciate your interest too! Thanks, Rusty
I use graphite shafts in my irons, and will not go back to steel. There is a nice feel to graphite that I have really grown to like, and steel feels really harsh in comparison. I use lightweight graphite shafts and the clubs are the same lengths as if they had steel shafts. I am at least 1 full club longer with the same clubs in graphite vs steel, and don’t feel like I need to swing hard at all to get a nice shot (which was my original reason for getting graphite, same swing = more swingspeed with lightweight graphite over regular steel, all else *EQUAL*). I don’t buy the accuracy argument at all and sexuality is related to golf shafts only in the minds of those having problems with their sexuality. — RSG Masters 2004 pre-preliminary format http://home.att.net/~frostback2002 RSG Roll Call: http://rec-sport-golf.com/?rc=frostback "The privilege of a lifetime is being who you are" Joseph Campbell
Hi, This is a follow-up to my question on Fila graphite shafts, which a clubmaker is offerring to make for me on PI3+ clones with graphite stiff and a torque of 3. They are advertising on EBAY 169.99 plus shipping plus throwing in both the 52 and 56 wedges…I’m currently playing ping zing clones (otherwise known as system 5 heads) with s100 stainless shafts, and am trying to figure if it’s worth a try on the graphite side…so graphite users, please reply, and ANYONE with any knowledge on the Fila grahites, I’d appreciate your interest too! Thanks, Rusty
Make a list of pros and cons for graphite vs, steel in your irons. Unless you have a medical condition requiring graphite shafts. you’ll have a hard time justifying their expense. I started with steel, went graphite for a few years and am now back to steel, which I prefer. Kenny — Kenny Stultz – Troll and SPAM intolerant RSG Rollcall: http://rec-sport-golf.com/members/?rollcall=stultzk "Golf is the only sport where a precise knowledge of the Rules can earn one a reputation for poor sportsmanship"
Make a list of pros and cons for graphite vs, steel in your irons. Unless you have a medical condition requiring graphite shafts. you’ll have a hard time justifying their expense.
On the other hand, as cheap as I am, I don’t find the difference between a graphite and a steel shaft make a significant difference in the cost of a club. Not compared to other golfing expenses.
Hi, This is a follow-up to my question on Fila graphite shafts, which a clubmaker is offerring to make for me on PI3+ clones with graphite stiff and a torque of 3. They are advertising on EBAY 169.99 plus shipping plus throwing in both the 52 and 56 wedges…I’m currently playing ping zing clones (otherwise known as system 5 heads) with s100 stainless shafts, and am trying to figure if it’s worth a try on the graphite side…so graphite users, please reply, and ANYONE with any knowledge on the Fila grahites, I’d appreciate your interest too! Thanks, Rusty
I play MCC MFS 115 shafts (http://www.mccshafts.com/Products/MFS115.html) in my irons because they feel terrific; however, they are neither light nor cheap. At the price your describing, my bet is that you would be better off with steel. YMMV. Jeff
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi, This is a follow-up to my question on Fila graphite shafts, which a clubmaker is offerring to make for me on PI3+ clones with graphite stiff and a torque of 3. They are advertising on EBAY 169.99 plus shipping plus throwing in both the 52 and 56 wedges…I’m currently playing ping zing clones (otherwise known as system 5 heads) with s100 stainless shafts, and am trying to figure if it’s worth a try on the graphite side…so graphite users, please reply, and ANYONE with any knowledge on the Fila grahites, I’d appreciate your interest too! Thanks, Rusty I use graphite shafts in my irons, and will not go back to steel. There is a nice feel to graphite that I have really grown to like, and steel feels really harsh in comparison. I use lightweight graphite shafts and the clubs are the same lengths as if they had steel shafts. I am at least 1 full club longer with the same clubs in graphite vs steel, and don’t feel like I need to swing hard at all to get a nice shot (which was my original reason for getting graphite, same swing = more swingspeed with lightweight graphite over regular steel, all else *EQUAL*). I don’t buy the accuracy argument at all and sexuality is related to golf shafts only in the minds of those having problems with their sexuality.
I have a set of Deep Red fatshaft graphite irons, and a set of Tommy Armour 845 steel shafted irons. I play with the graphites because I get better results, and they are more fun to use. The only thing I’ve found the steel clubs better for is chipping. Of course, I know 90% of the guys in here will disagree.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi, This is a follow-up to my question on Fila graphite shafts, which a clubmaker is offerring to make for me on PI3+ clones with graphite stiff and a torque of 3. They are advertising on EBAY 169.99 plus shipping plus throwing in both the 52 and 56 wedges…I’m currently playing ping zing clones (otherwise known as system 5 heads) with s100 stainless shafts, and am trying to figure if it’s worth a try on the graphite side…so graphite users, please reply, and ANYONE with any knowledge on the Fila grahites, I’d appreciate your interest too! Thanks, Rusty I use graphite shafts in my irons, and will not go back to steel. There is a nice feel to graphite that I have really grown to like, and steel feels really harsh in comparison. I use lightweight graphite shafts and the clubs are the same lengths as if they had steel shafts. I am at least 1 full club longer with the same clubs in graphite vs steel, and don’t feel like I need to swing hard at all to get a nice shot (which was my original reason for getting graphite, same swing = more swingspeed with lightweight graphite over regular steel, all else *EQUAL*). I don’t buy the accuracy argument at all and sexuality is related to golf shafts only in the minds of those having problems with their sexuality. I have a set of Deep Red fatshaft graphite irons, and a set of Tommy Armour 845 steel shafted irons. I play with the graphites because I get better results, and they are more fun to use. The only thing I’ve found the steel clubs better for is chipping. Of course, I know 90% of the guys in here will disagree.
I changed clubs to stiff graphite shafts,Taylor Mades Ti2 about 5 years ago and still have not adjusted to the difference. I gave my old clubs to my friend, (steel shafts) and she does very well with them. Actually, to the dismay of our regular foursome. We play as a regular foursome every Sunday and she has gone from about a 25 hcp to a 10 hcp in four years. It’s a hoot because I caught so much grief over allowing a "woman" to play in our group and now she beats 2 of the 4. I wish I could get my old clubs back.
Thanks for all your feedback..Looks like I’ll keep the blades and maybe try reshafting the DFS with either Rifle 4.5 or 5.0. This time I’ll buy one shaft of each and try them in the same head. The rest are going on Ebay.
I took a Golfsmith club building class and it’s all been downhill since. I have built 4 sets of clubs over the summer, now its time to figure out what to keep. 1. Killer Bee Stinger Plus, 3-P, TT Lite XL R Flex , 38" 5 iron 2. Dynacraft PC3, 3-P, Rifle 5.5, 38" 5 iron 3. Dynacraft DFS, 3-P, DFS Graphite Shafts, R flex, 39" 5 iron 4. Dynacraft 1030 Blades 3-P, Rifle 5.0, 37.75"5 iron ( Listed in order of expected preference) I took the 3, 5, 7, and 9 irons from each set down to the driving range to compare and came back with totally different results than I expected. 1. Dynacraft 1030 Blades – made the best contact and much more consistent 2. Dynacraft PC3, short irons almost ok.long irons not so well 3. Killer Bee Stinger Plus, could not hit anything well 4. Dynacraft DFS, could not hit anything I’m 53 yrs old and at least a 20 hdcp.I’m not supposed to hit the blades better.. Now the questions. Am I seeing the effects of different shafts? Flexes & Lengths If I put Rifle 5.0 in the other heads should I see less of a difference between sets? I am also thinking of trying Rifle 4.5’s I just noticed one other thing…my results were ranked from the least offset to the most. Anyone care to give an opinion?
ooo, You don’t want the blades….give them to me – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – 4. Dynacraft 1030 Blades 3-P, Rifle 5.0, 37.75"5 iron
1. Dynacraft 1030 Blades – made the best contact and much more consistent
Typical of blades…minimal offset. Note reduced shaft length..probably closer to C8-9 swingweight if no weights added; Rifle 5.0’s indicate mid to high ‘R’ flex range preference…all the others are quite stiff. Fitting 4.5’s might improve your tempo if that’s what needed, otherwise stay with the 5.0’s for accuracy. Sounds like a typical average ‘middle age’ golfer ’spec’ and worthy of a mid-range handicap….so expect some improvement from your 20 hcp if you stick with these! If you are comfortable with these stay wth the equipment that works! — cheers david "Somewhere in the world a village is missing an idiot!" - McCord SPAM-FIX. The owner of privacy.net has given permission to use this address for the purpose of protection from spam. If you want to contact me send to dsantwyk<ATbigpond<DOTnet<DOTau…thankyou!
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I took a Golfsmith club building class and it’s all been downhill since. I have built 4 sets of clubs over the summer, now its time to figure out what to keep. 1. Killer Bee Stinger Plus, 3-P, TT Lite XL R Flex , 38" 5 iron 2. Dynacraft PC3, 3-P, Rifle 5.5, 38" 5 iron 3. Dynacraft DFS, 3-P, DFS Graphite Shafts, R flex, 39" 5 iron 4. Dynacraft 1030 Blades 3-P, Rifle 5.0, 37.75"5 iron ( Listed in order of expected preference) I took the 3, 5, 7, and 9 irons from each set down to the driving range to compare and came back with totally different results than I expected. 1. Dynacraft 1030 Blades – made the best contact and much more consistent 2. Dynacraft PC3, short irons almost ok.long irons not so well 3. Killer Bee Stinger Plus, could not hit anything well 4. Dynacraft DFS, could not hit anything I’m 53 yrs old and at least a 20 hdcp.I’m not supposed to hit the blades better.. Now the questions. Am I seeing the effects of different shafts? Flexes & Lengths If I put Rifle 5.0 in the other heads should I see less of a difference between sets? I am also thinking of trying Rifle 4.5’s I just noticed one other thing…my results were ranked from the least offset to the most. Anyone care to give an opinion?
Sure… but first rank the heads in order from largest to smallest. If they are too close to differentiate, make them equal.
I took a Golfsmith club building class and it’s all been downhill since. I have built 4 sets of clubs over the summer, now its time to figure out what to keep. 1. Killer Bee Stinger Plus, 3-P, TT Lite XL R Flex , 38" 5 iron 2. Dynacraft PC3, 3-P, Rifle 5.5, 38" 5 iron 3. Dynacraft DFS, 3-P, DFS Graphite Shafts, R flex, 39" 5 iron 4. Dynacraft 1030 Blades 3-P, Rifle 5.0, 37.75"5 iron ( Listed in order of expected preference) I took the 3, 5, 7, and 9 irons from each set down to the driving range to compare and came back with totally different results than I expected. 1. Dynacraft 1030 Blades – made the best contact and much more consistent 2. Dynacraft PC3, short irons almost ok.long irons not so well 3. Killer Bee Stinger Plus, could not hit anything well 4. Dynacraft DFS, could not hit anything I’m 53 yrs old and at least a 20 hdcp.I’m not supposed to hit the blades better.. Now the questions. Am I seeing the effects of different shafts? Flexes & Lengths If I put Rifle 5.0 in the other heads should I see less of a difference between sets? I am also thinking of trying Rifle 4.5’s I just noticed one other thing…my results were ranked from the least offset to the most. Anyone care to give an opinion?
Anyone care to give an opinion?
Sure! TT lites are crappy shafts. The graphite shafts you used are also garbage, so no surprise at the outcome there. The Rifles are nice shafts, and it showed. IMHO, with that sort of shaft variation, the head variation made no real difference for comparisons sake. — RSG Masters 2004 pre-preliminary format http://home.att.net/~frostback2002 RSG Roll Call: http://rec-sport-golf.com/?rc=frostback "The privilege of a lifetime is being who you are" Joseph Campbell
I’m a 39 yo male and have been playing golf for three years. I started out with 855’s (still playing them). The more I play with these clubs, the more unhappy I am with the way they feel. A local shop said they would give me $200 trade-in on a set of refurbished Ping Eye2’s (the square groove). There selling this set of clubs for $450. Does this sound like a decent deal, $250 + my Armour’s? I usually shoot in the mid 90’s. Thanks for any advice. —
I’m a 39 yo male and have been playing golf for three years. I started out with 855’s (still playing them). The more I play with these clubs, the more unhappy I am with the way they feel. A local shop said they would give me $200 trade-in on a set of refurbished Ping Eye2’s (the square groove). There selling this set of clubs for $450.
I like the 855’s more. There was something about the way that the Ping’s set up that first through me off of them. When I actually hit the ball, I felt like something was missing. Of course, if your 855’s do not feel good to you, you should change them. I think that I would try to get hold of a set of Ping’s to play with before I made the change permanent, though. All of this is, IMHO David
My brother plays with Ping’s and I have had a chance to swing ‘em a few times. I prefer my Callaways any day. Ping’s set-up just doesn’t feel right to me. Bob Chesley Are you a golfer? Are you tired of retail prices? Would you like the opportunity to make golfing a tax deductible expense? Http://www.linksworldwide.com/bobchesley
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m a 39 yo male and have been playing golf for three years. I started out with 855’s (still playing them). The more I play with these clubs, the more unhappy I am with the way they feel. A local shop said they would give me $200 trade-in on a set of refurbished Ping Eye2’s (the square groove). There selling this set of clubs for $450. Does this sound like a decent deal, $250 + my Armour’s? I usually shoot in the mid 90’s. Thanks for any advice. —
Dynacraft has done better in the past two years, but there was a time when they were as big a copy house as the next guy. Golfsmith, while being number 1 in the component business, still has some clubs that are blatant knock offs. I have pretty much the same attitude about clubs as you do. However, if the courts aren’t going after the component houses for copyright infringement, then the copies are legal. Thanks for the list of what you’re playing, it sounds like you have a great bag going. Keep with it, and play a good round of golf for me. Chris S. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – TaylorMade R580 8.5 Cleveland Quadpro 3W 15′ Maxfli Revolution Black 3-PW S300 Maxfli Australian 56 Cobra Trusty Rusty 53 and 61 Mizuno 0803 Putter (I’ve been testing out a friends set of King Cobra II OS Graphite Stiff hump shafts..and I can nail them straight and long [The shaft is just slightly less stiff than my S-300 and that flex fits me better .might be using those in November ] I don’t disagree or dislike taking a design, changing it a little and making it your own (as long as you did it to ‘advance’ the design) I don’t like a company taking a design a changing it just enough to bypass copyright or patent laws and then making it look and sound like the original. I would play components, Mike D sent me a KZG 5i to test once and that was a nice club. I’ve contemplated some other Dynacraft or Golfsmith stuff I’m just curious what type of clubs that you play? Are they OEM or component. If component, what type/name are they? Chris S. I’m talking about the fact that these guys even name the clubs very close to the original names. and try to mimic the color schemes. That’s a pretty lowball tactic to try and get someone to buy your clubs Look like blatant knockoffs to me So what? You’re going to tell me that something like Golfsmith TC-01 aren’t Hogan knock offs, or John Jacobs aren’t Ping knock offs? JHH
TaylorMade R580 8.5 Cleveland Quadpro 3W 15′ Maxfli Revolution Black 3-PW S300 Maxfli Australian 56 Cobra Trusty Rusty 53 and 61 Mizuno 0803 Putter (I’ve been testing out a friends set of King Cobra II OS Graphite Stiff hump shafts..and I can nail them straight and long [The shaft is just slightly less stiff than my S-300 and that flex fits me better .might be using those in November ] I don’t disagree or dislike taking a design, changing it a little and making it your own (as long as you did it to ‘advance’ the design) I don’t like a company taking a design a changing it just enough to bypass copyright or patent laws and then making it look and sound like the original. I would play components, Mike D sent me a KZG 5i to test once and that was a nice club. I’ve contemplated some other Dynacraft or Golfsmith stuff
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m just curious what type of clubs that you play? Are they OEM or component. If component, what type/name are they? Chris S. I’m talking about the fact that these guys even name the clubs very close to the original names. and try to mimic the color schemes. That’s a pretty lowball tactic to try and get someone to buy your clubs Look like blatant knockoffs to me So what? You’re going to tell me that something like Golfsmith TC-01 aren’t Hogan knock offs, or John Jacobs aren’t Ping knock offs? JHH
That’s a pretty lowball tactic to try and get someone to buy your clubs
Its called a "clone" club. he objective of a clone is to make it as close as possible to the original model being copied. Without such naming, the buyer would not have any idea what the clubs may actually look like. I have a set of 858s , like the 855s. They are wonderful and I would trade them for a set of the real thing. If you think naming a generic product similar to the brand name is a shady practice I hope you stay out of the grocery stores! They do not misrepresent what they sell. They have good products at fair prices because they don’t pay tour players thousands of dollars a WEEK just to put one in their bag. If you ask me, people should stay away from the brand names. You can putt beter than you ever thought. www.targetputting.com
message [snip] I too have found them to be very good. I’ve ordered a Driver and an iron set with no problems. However, When they deliver to the UK the import tax (collected by Fed Ex on behalf of Customs and Excise) is quite expensive. The driver I ordered was 70 dollars assembled and delivered, and after import tax (The bill for the tax arrived about a month after driver delivery) the total cost went up to 70 pounds. All this aside, I found the company and products to be excellent. Will
Its normal, when importing in the UK to read dollar prices on web sites as exact Sterling prices, even though there are 1.5 (or more at the moment) US dollars to the pound. Thats tax and shipping for you!
I’m just curious what type of clubs that you play? Are they OEM or component. If component, what type/name are they? Chris S. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m talking about the fact that these guys even name the clubs very close to the original names. and try to mimic the color schemes. That’s a pretty lowball tactic to try and get someone to buy your clubs Look like blatant knockoffs to me So what? You’re going to tell me that something like Golfsmith TC-01 aren’t Hogan knock offs, or John Jacobs aren’t Ping knock offs? JHH
I’m talking about the fact that these guys even name the clubs very close to the original names. and try to mimic the color schemes. That’s a pretty lowball tactic to try and get someone to buy your clubs
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Look like blatant knockoffs to me So what? You’re going to tell me that something like Golfsmith TC-01 aren’t Hogan knock offs, or John Jacobs aren’t Ping knock offs? JHH
Well, yes they are. Of course, no other component company sells knock offs. You don’t have to buy from them. Look like blatant knockoffs to me message Anyone else ordered anything from them? Quality of stuff? Company good? Support Good? I have emailed them with some queries (twice) and no response, thats all.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’ve ordered from Diamondtour on three occasions this summer. I’ve been totally satisfied with their service, price and quality. (I let them assemble my orders as their charge was very reasonable). I’m currently awaiting a fourth order (due in a couple of days). I give them two thumbs up. Bob
Drop me an email with your questions/concerns, etc., and I’ll be glad to phone them up on your behalf. Peter – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Anyone else ordered anything from them? Quality of stuff? Company good? Support Good? I have emailed them with some queries (twice) and no response, thats all. Call them up. I’ve made several orders from them, and have had nothing but positive experiences. Quality is fine, company is excellent in terms of responsiveness and service. Email has been so wacko recently with the worms, I wouldn’t be at all surprised to hear that they’ve stopped reading it for a while. They’re fine on the phone. 1-800-826-5340 HTH, Peter Peter pfs126 at earthlink dot net I am in the UK making phoning a problem, both cost and time wise. I know emails an issue at the moment, I was just hoping they’d be a bit quicker.
Look like blatant knockoffs to me
So what? You’re going to tell me that something like Golfsmith TC-01 aren’t Hogan knock offs, or John Jacobs aren’t Ping knock offs? JHH
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Anyone else ordered anything from them? Quality of stuff? Company good? Support Good? I have emailed them with some queries (twice) and no response, thats all. Thumbs up from me too. They have done the right thing by me a couple of times. 1) i told them I was bit miffed about how much postage they charged on one particluar order and they refunded the postage in full. 2) i had a head crack and they agreed to send me the replacement without waiting for the faulty head to get to them first (I live is Australia), so that I would be without the club for the least amount of time possible. i.e they trusted me to do the right thing. Tony
Hi, I too have found them to be very good. I’ve ordered a Driver and an iron set with no problems. However, When they deliver to the UK the import tax (collected by Fed Ex on behalf of Customs and Excise) is quite expensive. The driver I ordered was 70 dollars assembled and delivered, and after import tax (The bill for the tax arrived about a month after driver delivery) the total cost went up to 70 pounds. All this aside, I found the company and products to be excellent. Will
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Anyone else ordered anything from them? Quality of stuff? Company good? Support Good? I have emailed them with some queries (twice) and no response, thats all. Call them up. I’ve made several orders from them, and have had nothing but positive experiences. Quality is fine, company is excellent in terms of responsiveness and service. Email has been so wacko recently with the worms, I wouldn’t be at all surprised to hear that they’ve stopped reading it for a while. They’re fine on the phone. 1-800-826-5340 HTH, Peter Peter pfs126 at earthlink dot net
I am in the UK making phoning a problem, both cost and time wise. I know emails an issue at the moment, I was just hoping they’d be a bit quicker.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Anyone else ordered anything from them? Quality of stuff? Company good? Support Good? I have emailed them with some queries (twice) and no response, thats all. Ordered twice within the past few months with excellent results, both in quality of product and service. I am going to place another order in a day or so without reservation. (My son has ‘adopted’ my rescue hybrid wood. I’ll be needing another one.) You may want to use the phone as I suspect many email accounts are trashed with the current worn infestation. — Bob Andrews
In the UK very difficult, time and costs considered.
Great stuff. Call them – email is rather slow. They have done OK by me. Broken shafts were replaced without a hassle. Check out the heads by SMT !!!
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Anyone else ordered anything from them? Quality of stuff? Company good? Support Good? I have emailed them with some queries (twice) and no response, thats all.
I’ve had nothing but positive experiences with them on the several orders I have placed.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Anyone else ordered anything from them? Quality of stuff? Company good? Support Good? I have emailed them with some queries (twice) and no response, thats all.
Anyone else ordered anything from them? Quality of stuff? Company good? Support Good? I have emailed them with some queries (twice) and no response, thats all.
Thumbs up from me too. They have done the right thing by me a couple of times. 1) i told them I was bit miffed about how much postage they charged on one particluar order and they refunded the postage in full. 2) i had a head crack and they agreed to send me the replacement without waiting for the faulty head to get to them first (I live is Australia), so that I would be without the club for the least amount of time possible. i.e they trusted me to do the right thing. Tony
Anyone else ordered anything from them? Quality of stuff? Company good? Support Good? I have emailed them with some queries (twice) and no response, thats all.
Ordered twice within the past few months with excellent results, both in quality of product and service. I am going to place another order in a day or so without reservation. (My son has ‘adopted’ my rescue hybrid wood. I’ll be needing another one.) You may want to use the phone as I suspect many email accounts are trashed with the current worn infestation. — Bob Andrews
I’ll send him an e-mail to see what’s hot there. I have no experience with those heads. It’ll be a day or so. I can tell you that they do first rate assembly. Chris S.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’ve had quick responses to 2 emails just last week…I’ve heard and read nothing but good things about diamondtour…knockoffs???, sure but almost everything in the world is a knockoff of an original, successful idea… Chris, my question about diamondtour is if anyone has any experience with the Tour Response 900 irons and the Z Tour 3 Plus irons… I have tried a 7 iron in each…Both are nice…The TR 900 has a rifle 5.0 in it and it is a sweet stick (TA7 knockoff)…The Z tour 3+ (i3+ knockoff) sets up very nice, but the one i tried had a r flex apollo shaft in it and didn’t feel as solid as the TR 900 with the rifle…. Just wondering if you or your friend who assembles clubs for diamondtour have any comments on these irons… I am considering a new set of irons (i currently play ping eye 2+, blk dot) and i don’t really want spend $1100 for a set of i3+’s with rifles… The TR 900’s and Z tour 3+’s assembled with rifles can be had for about $200 from diamondtour…The quality appears good… Too good to be true??? You get what you pay for??? Help !!!!
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – They are rather slow on e-mails. I’ve used them and they are really good. The quality of the stuff is good. I have a friend who does most of their club building, and he tells me that their reputation is growing among the component suppliers. YMMV.
I have been ordering stuff from them for a while. Always got good service. I was thinking about starting to play again about 4 years ago and ordered a set of 858 clone irons. They are great. Recently, I have ordered several driver heads and shafts and a couple of putters. You can do business with them confidently. Wanna make more short putts? www.targetputting.com has the answer
Anyone else ordered anything from them? Quality of stuff? Company good? Support Good? I have emailed them with some queries (twice) and no response, thats all.
Call them up. I’ve made several orders from them, and have had nothing but positive experiences. Quality is fine, company is excellent in terms of responsiveness and service. Email has been so wacko recently with the worms, I wouldn’t be at all surprised to hear that they’ve stopped reading it for a while. They’re fine on the phone. 1-800-826-5340 HTH, Peter Peter pfs126 at earthlink dot net
Anyone else ordered anything from them? Quality of stuff? Company good? Support Good? I have emailed them with some queries (twice) and no response, thats all.
Never had a problem with them. Pretty good product line. Defective stuff was replaced immediately without question (shaft box bent in half in transit; has a negative effect on shaft quality. The delivery service made more of a fuss over it than Diamondtour). — RSG Masters 2004 pre-preliminary format http://home.att.net/~frostback2002 RSG Roll Call: http://rec-sport-golf.com/?rc=frostback "The privilege of a lifetime is being who you are" Joseph Campbell
I’ve had quick responses to 2 emails just last week…I’ve heard and read nothing but good things about diamondtour…knockoffs???, sure but almost everything in the world is a knockoff of an original, successful idea… Chris, my question about diamondtour is if anyone has any experience with the Tour Response 900 irons and the Z Tour 3 Plus irons… I have tried a 7 iron in each…Both are nice…The TR 900 has a rifle 5.0 in it and it is a sweet stick (TA7 knockoff)…The Z tour 3+ (i3+ knockoff) sets up very nice, but the one i tried had a r flex apollo shaft in it and didn’t feel as solid as the TR 900 with the rifle…. Just wondering if you or your friend who assembles clubs for diamondtour have any comments on these irons… I am considering a new set of irons (i currently play ping eye 2+, blk dot) and i don’t really want spend $1100 for a set of i3+’s with rifles… The TR 900’s and Z tour 3+’s assembled with rifles can be had for about $200 from diamondtour…The quality appears good… Too good to be true??? You get what you pay for??? Help !!!! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – They are rather slow on e-mails. I’ve used them and they are really good. The quality of the stuff is good. I have a friend who does most of their club building, and he tells me that their reputation is growing among the component suppliers. YMMV.
Look like blatant knockoffs to me
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Anyone else ordered anything from them? Quality of stuff? Company good? Support Good? I have emailed them with some queries (twice) and no response, thats all. I’ve ordered from Diamondtour on three occasions this summer. I’ve been totally satisfied with their service, price and quality. (I let them assemble my orders as their charge was very reasonable). I’m currently awaiting a fourth order (due in a couple of days). I give them two thumbs up. Bob
Anyone else ordered anything from them? Quality of stuff? Company good? Support Good? I have emailed them with some queries (twice) and no response, thats all.
They are rather slow on e-mails. I’ve used them and they are really good. The quality of the stuff is good. I have a friend who does most of their club building, and he tells me that their reputation is growing among the component suppliers. YMMV. Chris S.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Anyone else ordered anything from them? Quality of stuff? Company good? Support Good? I have emailed them with some queries (twice) and no response, thats all.
Anyone else ordered anything from them? Quality of stuff? Company good? Support Good? I have emailed them with some queries (twice) and no response, thats all.
I’ve ordered from Diamondtour on three occasions this summer. I’ve been totally satisfied with their service, price and quality. (I let them assemble my orders as their charge was very reasonable). I’m currently awaiting a fourth order (due in a couple of days). I give them two thumbs up. Bob
to be fair, yes it does. you dont know if you’re slicing or hooking. however, i also tended to forget about distance and just concentrated on making the right impact & middling every shot as close as possible. very important stuff!…. the net was also great to hit a few warm up shots before i went to the course as my local’s dont have any practice range’s or nets. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi Woodsie, With a net, you can’t see the complete ball-flight. Doesn’t that limit the information you can glean from your shots? Sincerely, John practice net for the backyard. hours and hours of free practice taught me lots about the swing.
I bought a lazer pointer for $7 and duct-taped a tee to is so I could stick it in the end of my club. Seeing the red dot streak on the floor as I made a few practice swings showed me how far off my swing plane was and how to improve it. My swing made a quantum leap in improvement because of that. Best $7 I ever spent on a golf gadget. . .
All good points. Thanks! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – to be fair, yes it does. you dont know if you’re slicing or hooking. however, i also tended to forget about distance and just concentrated on making the right impact & middling every shot as close as possible. very important stuff!…. the net was also great to hit a few warm up shots before i went to the course as my local’s dont have any practice range’s or nets. Hi Woodsie, With a net, you can’t see the complete ball-flight. Doesn’t that limit the information you can glean from your shots? Sincerely, John practice net for the backyard. hours and hours of free practice taught me lots about the swing.
What would you consider to be the best equipment money you’ve spent? What one piece of equipment has helped improve your game the most aside from lessons. For me it was the addition of a lob wedge, made everything from 100 yards and in a whole lot easier and really helped my putting game by keeping my putts shorter. young…
2 things… 1 equipment, 1 not. 1) range membership 2) comfortable shoes (gotta keep the feet and legs happy)
What would you consider to be the best equipment money you’ve spent? What one piece of equipment has helped improve your game the most aside from lessons. For me it was the addition of a lob wedge, made everything from 100 yards and in a whole lot easier and really helped my putting game by keeping my putts shorter. young…
Shag Bag.
50$ for a clone wedge? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – By the way I think its was about $50. 60 degree Volkey clone worked for me. For the the short chips I open the face and swing a lot harder. With a full swing I can land and stick from 40 or so yards. What would you consider to be the best equipment money you’ve spent? What one piece of equipment has helped improve your game the most aside from lessons. For me it was the addition of a lob wedge, made everything from 100 yards and in a whole lot easier and really helped my putting game by keeping my putts shorter. young…
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – It wasn’t much money, but I bought a component putterhead, shaft and grip for about ten buck total. The head has three black lines on it for alignment. I almost never three putt and make the vast majority of my putts of six feet or less. The best money you can spend is on a putter you can aim properly. Wanna make more short putts? www.targetputting.com has the answer
What a joke
mirrors aren’t bad.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Coupled with a video camera, I’d agree. Otherwise, just shooting into a net w/o any form of feedback might ingrain undesirable habits. A net is only so good but it beats practice swing with no feedback at all.
What would you consider to be the best equipment money you’ve spent? What one piece of equipment has helped improve your game the most aside from lessons. For me it was the addition of a lob wedge, made everything from 100 yards and in a whole lot easier and really helped my putting game by keeping my putts shorter.
My Sand Putter, which I got for $15 from eBay – you can’t get more bang for your buck Ulrich
What would you consider to be the best equipment money you’ve spent?
My STX putter–hands down. Dave Clary/Corpus Christi, Tx Home: http://home.stx.rr.com/dclary RSG Roll Call http://www.rec-sport-golf.com/members/?rollcall=claryd
By the way I think its was about $50.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – 60 degree Volkey clone worked for me. For the the short chips I open the face and swing a lot harder. With a full swing I can land and stick from 40 or so yards. What would you consider to be the best equipment money you’ve spent? What one piece of equipment has helped improve your game the most aside from lessons. For me it was the addition of a lob wedge, made everything from 100 yards and in a whole lot easier and really helped my putting game by keeping my putts shorter. young…
Is the STX face balanced?
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – What would you consider to be the best equipment money you’ve spent? My STX putter–hands down. Dave Clary/Corpus Christi, Tx Home: http://home.stx.rr.com/dclary RSG Roll Call http://www.rec-sport-golf.com/members/?rollcall=claryd
Is the STX face balanced?
don’t know. When it’s on the end of a 52" shaft, don’t know that it makes that much of a difference! Dave Clary/Corpus Christi, Tx Home: http://home.stx.rr.com/dclary RSG Roll Call http://www.rec-sport-golf.com/members/?rollcall=claryd
It wasn’t much money, but I bought a component putterhead, shaft and grip for about ten buck total. The head has three black lines on it for alignment. I almost never three putt and make the vast majority of my putts of six feet or less. The best money you can spend is on a putter you can aim properly. Wanna make more short putts? www.targetputting.com has the answer
Sun Mountain Speed Cart. I’m not in the best of shape and buying that cart has already paid for itself financially by my NOT paying cart fees I would have otherwise have paid! Additionally, by walking more, I’m both getting in better shape and enjoying my life more. Fewer lost balls because I can walk directly to where I think the ball is, rather than lose my view angle as I manuver the cart up to path to the 90 degree point, crossing the fairway, and then hoping I’m looking in the right place. Finally, my course management has improved since I have time while walking to think about more than just the next shot. With a power cart, that thinking time is gone as I have to pay attention to my driving (or cringing at the driving of my cart partner, who I rarely know since I usually play as a single standby) What would you consider to be the best equipment money you’ve spent? What one piece of equipment has helped improve your game the most aside from lessons. For me it was the addition of a lob wedge, made everything from 100 yards and in a whole lot easier and really helped my putting game by keeping my putts shorter. young…
RSG Roll Call: http://rec-sport-golf.com/members/?rollcall=dorsts I’ve Taken to UIP pledge! See: http://rec-sport-golf.com/newsgroup/uipindex.html
practice net for the backyard. hours and hours of free practice taught me lots about the swing. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – What would you consider to be the best equipment money you’ve spent? What one piece of equipment has helped improve your game the most aside from lessons. For me it was the addition of a lob wedge, made everything from 100 yards and in a whole lot easier and really helped my putting game by keeping my putts shorter. young…
What would you consider to be the best equipment money you’ve spent? What one piece of equipment has helped improve your game the most aside from lessons. For me it was the addition of a lob wedge, made everything from 100 yards and in a whole lot easier and really helped my putting game by keeping my putts shorter. young…
I don’t know if any equipment will help you. I am most consistent when I practice systematically. Work on specific shots and count how many times I make and miss the shot in practice, and how many times I make and miss the shot when I play. I come to know for a fact which shots are my best shots and which are not. It makes a big difference in club selection. I don’t know that it has helped my scoring very much yet, but it does help me to understand my game a bit more, and make it more enjoyable. I am learning that practice helps with some shots but not with others. Hopefully I will get a really clear understanding of the shots I have and those I don’t have as I progress with this. — RSG Masters 2004 pre-preliminary format http://home.att.net/~frostback2002 RSG Roll Call: http://rec-sport-golf.com/?rc=frostback "The privilege of a lifetime is being who you are" Joseph Campbell
Hi Woodsie, With a net, you can’t see the complete ball-flight. Doesn’t that limit the information you can glean from your shots? Sincerely, John – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – practice net for the backyard. hours and hours of free practice taught me lots about the swing.
Hi Woodsie, With a net, you can’t see the complete ball-flight. Doesn’t that limit the information you can glean from your shots? Sincerely, John practice net for the backyard. hours and hours of free practice taught me lots about the swing.
A net is only so good but it beats practice swing with no feedback at all.
And a video camera to see your swing. If you are really good you can admire yourself.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi Woodsie, With a net, you can’t see the complete ball-flight. Doesn’t that limit the information you can glean from your shots? Sincerely, John practice net for the backyard. hours and hours of free practice taught me lots about the swing.
Coupled with a video camera, I’d agree. Otherwise, just shooting into a net w/o any form of feedback might ingrain undesirable habits. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – A net is only so good but it beats practice swing with no feedback at all.
The one piece of equipment that helped me the most is mirrored walls in my inside practice area so I can watch my swing and learn how to swing on plane. Runners Up: #1: The Right Ball. I believe that all players, especially beginners, need to work on their game with as few variables as possible, and one of the easiest variables to control is the ball. I’ve tried a bunch of balls and score best with the Wilson ProStaff SmartCore Tour Accuracy. Unfortunately it is discontinued and I have found no ball that combines (for me) the green-holding, putting, and straight driving characteristics of this ball. The closest I’ve found so far is the Precept U-TRI Extra Distance, but the only balls that match the putting feel are balatas (and the ProV1x, which is a waste of money while I still lose balls every round). Suggestions, anyone? #2: Ping B60 Putter. This sets up for me perfectly. #3: My Golf howto books: including _The Golfing Machine_, Rotella, Pennick, Shoemaker, Galway, the Pelz bibles, and _Golf Swing Secrets and Lies_. #4: Wilson practice putting thing, the one with the 10 feet of green felt and an automatic ball return. #5: Dunlop 19* No Problem 5W. This is a shallow-faced 4W that is really easy to hit off tight lies and the fairway. The 13* 3+ is a shallow-faced 2W that is also pretty good, but I hit my 16* Tight Lies 3W the same distance so use it instead. — Digital forums are a gift to the slow witted
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – The one piece of equipment that helped me the most is mirrored walls in my inside practice area so I can watch my swing and learn how to swing on plane. Runners Up: #1: The Right Ball. I believe that all players, especially beginners, need to work on their game with as few variables as possible, and one of the easiest variables to control is the ball. I’ve tried a bunch of balls and score best with the Wilson ProStaff SmartCore Tour Accuracy. Unfortunately it is discontinued and I have found no ball that combines (for me) the green-holding, putting, and straight driving characteristics of this ball. The closest I’ve found so far is the Precept U-TRI Extra Distance, but the only balls that match the putting feel are balatas (and the ProV1x, which is a waste of money while I still lose balls every round). Suggestions, anyone? #2: Ping B60 Putter. This sets up for me perfectly. #3: My Golf howto books: including _The Golfing Machine_, Rotella, Pennick, Shoemaker, Galway, the Pelz bibles, and _Golf Swing Secrets and Lies_. #4: Wilson practice putting thing, the one with the 10 feet of green felt and an automatic ball return. #5: Dunlop 19* No Problem 5W. This is a shallow-faced 4W that is really easy to hit off tight lies and the fairway. The 13* 3+ is a shallow-faced 2W that is also pretty good, but I hit my 16* Tight Lies 3W the same distance so use it instead.
I was also loving the Wilson Smartcore balls and just scored the last box at my local Sportchek yesterday. I have found the Wilson Sonic’s to be a nice ball as well but not the Smartcore. I really liked the Maxfli Noodle and the Nike TA2 but they are not economically viable whilst I am still losing them to the woodland and watergods. I have found some good prices on both balls on E Bay though so I might go that route until I find another ball that I like as much as the Smartcores. A new putter is now top of my list but I really like a heavy putter and the only one i’ve tried so far that I liked was an Inazone four ball. It seemed to have a nice weight which is what I have found really helps my tempo. young…
60 degree Volkey clone worked for me. For the the short chips I open the face and swing a lot harder. With a full swing I can land and stick from 40 or so yards.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – What would you consider to be the best equipment money you’ve spent? What one piece of equipment has helped improve your game the most aside from lessons. For me it was the addition of a lob wedge, made everything from 100 yards and in a whole lot easier and really helped my putting game by keeping my putts shorter. young…
What would you consider to be the best equipment money you’ve spent? What one piece of equipment has helped improve your game the most aside from lessons. For me it was the addition of a lob wedge, made everything from 100 yards and in a whole lot easier and really helped my putting game by keeping my putts shorter. young…
I purchase my current favorite golf grip from the Golf Mart in San Diego. The Ping Velvet’s run $4.99 each. Is that a good price? If I order in bulk, what quantities do I need to hit, and how much should I be paying? So far, I seem pretty picky on my grips. Having replaced about 15-18 grips so far in about 14 months. I had the winn grips – wore out way too fast. Too spongy. Ping Velvets – replaced my first one today myself and it was simple. It was on my most used club – my 54 degree wedge. It was pretty smoothed out. In part probably due to dirt, and getting the grip wet a few times. It’s pretty much the one club in my bad that will be laid down on the green about 8-12 times a round. The others are either in the bag or in my hands mostly. Most people would have probably kept all the grips for the entire season, but for some reason, I really feel it when the grips change "grippyness". I have been pondering Ping Cords – but am not sure if I want to go that route as the velvets feel nice. Anyone have thoughts between the two? Kevin
I purchase my current favorite golf grip from the Golf Mart in San Diego. The Ping Velvet’s run $4.99 each. Is that a good price?
Pretty pricey of they are GP knockoffs. I order my grips for Golfworks, as they sell the Winn XF midsize that I prefer. Grips are usually much cheaper from component distributors than from retail stores. I had the winn grips – wore out way too fast. Too spongy.
I get at least a year out of winn XFs (I play a lot, and a lot in hot, humid conditions), and even when the wear is obvious, they still play OK, just look a little ratty. They adhere to rain gloves like velcro (but slick as snot with leather gloves when wet!). The GP TV lites I used to use would wear out in about the same time, but it was a lot harder to notice, and when they were worn out, they were borderline useless. …which reminds me, I used the last of the 10 grips I ordered last year a couple of weeks ago. Time to order 10 more! — RSG Masters 2004 pre-preliminary format http://home.att.net/~frostback2002 RSG Roll Call: http://rec-sport-golf.com/?rc=frostback "The privilege of a lifetime is being who you are" Joseph Campbell