Question:
I never had a thatch problem. The clippings eventually decomposed, and I don’t know why they’d decompose any faster or slower than ones that were smaller but more numerous, as are supposedly those spewn from "mulching mowers," since the total clipping surface area is essentially the same.
Total surface area is the same. However, the uncut grass surfaces will resist rotting better than the cut surfaces, so you will get somewhat quicker results with more thoroughly cut clippings. I claim no special ability, and I do admit to curmundgeon-hood. But my observation is that over-pampering of a lawn debilitates it. I also am skeptical of the claims of mulching-mowers, since I see them as trendy solutions in search of a problem, and an excuse for mower-makers to make your old mower obsolete, and sell you a new one with a capability that somehow makes it more expensive. In other words, 10% value, 90% marketing hype. I’ve noticed much the same results on my lawn, but still wonder. Has anyone seen any REAL studies on the validity of clipping size? (mulch vs. normal clippings)? Frankly the idea of marketing vs. hype seems all too plausible. But thats good! It means that my $120 Murray is a mean mulching machine! Keith
Before I bought my Honda Harmony mulcher, I used a John Deere rear bagger. I tried using the attachment that threw the clippings to one side. Since it didn’t disperse the clippings very well, in a day or so I usually had rather obvious stripes of dryed clippings running across my yard. The JD mulching kit worked somewhat better (if I had the time, it was slooow going), but it left larger clippings than the Honda. You could usually see the clippings from the JD, but rarely can I see any leftovers from my Honda. Not a scientific study by any stretch, but I can attest to much more satisfactory visual results with the Honda Harmony on my lawn. Wes Smith
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I never had a thatch problem. The clippings eventually decomposed, and I don’t know why they’d decompose any faster or slower than ones that were smaller but more numerous, as are supposedly those spewn from "mulching mowers," since the total clipping surface area is essentially the same. I’ve noticed much the same results on my lawn, but still wonder. Has anyone seen any REAL studies on the validity of clipping size? (mulch vs. normal clippings)? Frankly the idea of marketing vs. hype seems all too plausible. But thats good! It means that my $120 Murray is a mean mulching machine!
I haven’t seen studies, but the ISU extension hort people were talking about mulching vs. regular mowers on the radio a couple of days ago. They said that there was no reason to buy a mulching mower if you mowed your lawn when it needed it (< 1/4 blade ht removed) as opposed to mowing when you get around to it. BTW, "thatch" is not that thin layer of decomposing grass clippings at the sod/soil interface. Instead, it’s an ABNORMAL condition of an accumulation of detritus that does not rot, and keeps water and air from the soil. Kay Klier Biology Dept UNI
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With great anticipation, I awaited the blooming of our lilac bushes only to find a handful of flowers! Last year it blossomed beautifully! I am sure that it did not fall victim to a crazy neighbor with pruning shears, so I am asking for help in determining what went wrong/what I did wrong.
You didn’t do anything wrong; that’s just the way lilacs are. They tend to fall into a two-year cycle–one year of good bloom, one year of poor. You can overcome this tendency by pruning–next winter, get out your pruner & saw and thin the bush. This will mean that next year’s show (which should be a good year) will be somewhat reduced; however, the pruning will encourage the bush to send up strong new growth to bloom the year after (which would otherwise have been a poor year). By doing this over the course of years, you can even the bush’s performance out. Or you can just accept that lilacs are spectacular one year and dull the next. Bill McJohn
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I just read an article about mulching mowers in a publication on environmental gardening from the Brooklyn Botanical Gardens. They say (and it is supported by my experience) that a mulching mower will chop the grass bits into much smaller pieces and then FORCE them down into the grass near the soil. This speeds decomposition both by smaller surface areas for individual pieces and proximity to the microorganisms that to the decomposing. Using a "cheapie" mower that is intended for bagging may be satisfactory for your yard — especially if you mow often and don’t let the cut-off part of the grass become very long. But mulching mowers are definitely more than just hype — mine is a 5hp Murray (the article said 5-8hp is needed to do the job properly) and it only cost $177 at Builder’s Square. Cheap enough for a brand new mower that does what I want, in my book. (If our lawn were smaller we’d use a reel mower.) Sherry
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| | So the big question… is not having to pay for the mower for 6 months and | buying a full featured (wheel bearings, nice handle, brake/clutch, Honda name, | dealer recommended) Honda worth $100 to us. If not, then the Toro w/ the 5HP | engine is the way to go. | | | The Honda engine is very reliable and is the easiest starting of all. | For years now mine started on the first pull after winter storage in | an outdoor shed! Ditto, for my Briggs & Straton powered Murray, and my Dad’s MTD and my Sisters Murray and my future Father-in-laws Craftsman. I think this Honda engine stuff is VERY over-rated. If I had problems or had a mower that worked reliably for only 3-5 years (as desribed in earlier post), I would consider one of the over-priced marques. But then again, my dad has a B&S that starts on the first pull, and is 26 years old this summer! BTW, I have two neighbors who have Honda mowers and swear by them. They also have had a lot of problems with them, or at least more than I have had with my cheap Murray 
Also, both of these neighbors own Honda cars exclusively 8-() daniel
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Now that I am older and needing a mower, I notice that I haven’t seen a powered reel mower in a store in ages. Am I mistaken? (Probably they still are available for golf courses, for many kilo-bucks.) It’s hard to believe someone doesn’t make a home-grade powered reel mower that costs less than one of these $500-$700 Hondas or John Deeres we’ve been reading about…
They do exist, my father-in-law has one; but I doubt if any would be much less than $500-700. Why you ask? Because when he switched grasses he changed from a manual reel mower to a power one, he gave the manual one to me. I noted how well it was constructed and he said they were selling these days for $200. The **manual one** was $200. The make is a yard man. (Such a manly name…I feel good and testosterone laden whenever I use it). I didn’t ask how much the power one was but I’d guess about "one kilo-buck". If you’re still interested after all this depressing news, I suggest going to a local lawnmower shop. And talk to the owner there. Good Luck, JP
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Conventional wisdom 1: Leaving clippings on the grass is a good thing, hence the trendiness of mulching mowers. CW 2: Reel mowers cut better than rotaries, and leave the clippings about where they came from. CW 3: Real homeowners push their reel mowers, and this is Good Excercise. CW 4: At about 1/3 acre, real homeowners give up and get something with a motor. When I was a tiny lad, my dad had a reel mower with a briggs&stratton engine that, I think, also drove the wheels. When I was a stronger lad and caddying, golf course maintenance workers also cut with powered reel mowers. Now that I am older and needing a mower, I notice that I haven’t seen a powered reel mower in a store in ages. Am I mistaken? (Probably they still are available for golf courses, for many kilo-bucks.) It’s hard to believe someone doesn’t make a home-grade powered reel mower that costs less than one of these $500-$700 Hondas or John Deeres we’ve been reading about… Are there any sightings? curiously, -dB —
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With great anticipation, I awaited the blooming of our lilac bushes only to find a handful of flowers! Last year it blossomed beautifully! I am sure that it did not fall victim to a crazy neighbor with pruning shears, so I am asking for help in determining what went wrong/what I did wrong. ps. i am in New Jersey Thanks in advance, Chris — Christine M. Gomberg AT&T IMS Product Engineering Piscataway, NJ attmail!cspuhler
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OK. You’d think that being trained in scientific method I’d do some experimenting before opening my mouth. I didn’t of course. The followups to my posting Re; The Rodale test plot raised some questions in my mind, so I went out this weekend and experimented. Normally I collect my clippings and compost them. This weekend I cut my grass without the bag using my Craftsman rotary mower. This mower has a spring-loaded trap door on the rear which swings open when the bag is attached. Therefore, the clippings were not discharged out the side or back, but straight down. The results look pretty good and it was easier and quicker than bagging. Problem is, this is the dying (rusted out) mower I’m anticipating replacing. A reel mower, while being more environmentally friendly, would tend to cut once and toss the grass onto the top of the lawn rather than shooting it down into the lawn. So while I’m convinced of the desirability and ability to aesthetically return the clippings to the lawn, it looks like I’ll need a power mower to get the job done without having dead grass sitting on the surface (I can’t always cut before the grass gets long). Tom Dugan
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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – | Last summer I visited the Rodale Research Center in Emmaus, PA. This was a | Sunday afternoon and there weren’t too many Rodale people around to ask | questions of, but there was an area where they were testing the effects | of mulching mowers: comparing a mulched plot with a regularly mowed plot. | The results were AMAZING. The mulched plot was much thicker and healthier | than the regular plot. | When you say they compared a "mulched plot" with a "regular plot," what do | they mean by a "regular plot?" Mowed, with clippings left to lie? Or | mowed with clippings collected? To be honest, I don’t remember what the sign said. I do remember what the lawn patch looked like. I don’t recall seeing any clippings.Probably collected them.
Probably. To see what happens when you remove the cuttings, (i.e. make hay), here is some info from Fertile Soil, R. Parnes, ISBN:0-932857-03-5: Kentucky Bluegrass Hay: Average annual yield in US, 1.5 tons/acre (dry) Nutrient Content of Hay: Nitrogen: 26lbs/ton, Phospate: 10lbs/ton, Potash: 34lbs/ton, Sulfur: 4lbs/ton So, if the grass cuttings (hay) are removed from the average US lawn, fertilizer must be added to compensate: 39lbs/acre of N, 15lbs/acre of P, 51lbs/acre of K and 6 lbs/acre of S. If you use 30-10-10, i.e. 30%N-10%P-10%K, you would need about 500lbs/acre to meet the K requirement per year. Note: the soil on its own is capable of supplying its own nutrients, i.e. the continual decompostion of the soil, aided by organic matter and a soil that is alive or "organic", produces plant nutrients, but only the best central N. American corn/wheat soils can produce this amount, [that's why they grow corn and wheat commercially there, because they are also grasses] so on the average lawn where the cuttings are removed, the soil becomes deficient in nutrients and the yield of grass declines and the health of the stand, i.e. lawn, declines. Note: were are talking only about primary nutrients here, i.e. N-P-K-S, but minor nutrients are also depleted and these are much harder to replace. Chemical or synthesized fertilizer rarely supplies minor nutrients, for this organic or specialty materials must be used, assuming you can evaluate and determine what minor nutrients are deficient. Bottom Line: Let the cuttings fall where they may. Mulching mower not required. Reel mower not required but it produces a much cleaner cut as well as many other benefits. Irony: Only in the US would people go to all the trouble to grow quality bluegrass hay only to then throw it out. As Pogo said, we have met the enemy and it is US!
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I missed the mulching mower summary. Would someone either repost or e-mail to me? I’d really appreciate it. Thanx. Jeff
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The county that I live in, is proposing that lawn refuse (clippings, twigs, leaves etc) be banned from landfills.
It’s about time. Lawn cuttings belong in the lawn. Based on this and the fact that w/o baggin clippings I might be able to save 1/3 of the time it normally takes cutting my half acre lawn, I am going to purchase a mulcher.
1/2 acre lawn? Do you use all that? You might consider replacing some of it with trees or shrubery. My other requirement was for a self propelled mower.
Why? (the following comes from vendors, not my actual experience) Mulching mowers work well. They chop the grass into 1/8" or less pieces and force them into the lawn. Various studies have shown they do not increase thatch. Mowers that are not designed as mulchers will not do as well, they might cut grass well, but probably wont make the tiny clippings that are required to help the grass decompose.
Let me guess; you got this info from a mulching mower salesman, right? $500-600 is alot to spend but the only other options were: 1) $300 mower that will last 3-5 years and will not be fun to use (ie: heavy, unmanuverable etc) 2) riding mower $600-1500 + a push mower for hills and places the riding mower cant go. ps: Data above is based on a 2 day research mission and should not be taken as fact.
Option3: Put $100 into a good reel (real) mower and let the cuttings fall where they may thus eliminating the need for fertilizer and any other dollar inputs into the lawn. Put the remaining $1400 into the Vanguard GNMAE or similar which yields 7%. Feel good about the environment because you’re not contributing to air, water, soil or noise pollution. Feel secure in your estate because you have money saved for a rainy day that is earning interest and remember the key axiom of old money people – never spend the principle (reduce the estate), instead do what you can with the interest stream generated by the principle.
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So the big question… is not having to pay for the mower for 6 months and buying a full featured (wheel bearings, nice handle, brake/clutch, Honda name, dealer recommended) Honda worth $100 to us. If not, then the Toro w/ the 5HP engine is the way to go.
The Honda engine is very reliable and is the easiest starting of all. For years now mine started on the first pull after winter storage in an outdoor shed! 1 1 1 Doug Williams 1 2 1 AT&T Bell Labs 1 3 3 1 Reading, PA 1 5 10 10 5 1 1 6 15 20 15 6 1
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John Deere: very good. It is designed to cut grass but has a mulching option. Honda Mulching: $549 + $50 for bag kit. Designed to be a mulcher w/ an optional bag for when you have too much grass to I looked at these two as well just a couple of weeks ago. Both are advertised as mulchers, but Deere has it backwards while Honda did it right. The bag should be optional for a mulcher. Deere comes with the bag yet offers the mulching blade for their "tricycler" as an option. Does that make sense to you?
I recently bought a JD, the SB model. I also had it narrowed down to Honda $599, JD $635. The Honda came as a mulcher and the bag could be added for $40. The $635 for the JD included the choice of mulch kit or bag kit. The mulch kit contains a mulching blade and a plug for the hole in the deck. The bag kit has a regular blade and the bag. I chose the mulch kit, so I don’t have a bag. The bag kit is $35 as an option, but I would end up with a blade I don’t need. The dealer I talked to said that the mulching blade works well even for bagging and discharging – actually better that the regualar blade (So why are there regular blades? I don’t know.) He said the mulching blade will still result in smaller clippings when bagging or discharging, meaning you will be able to go a little longer before emptying the bag. I added the discharge attachment for $23. I have had to use it a couple of times when things got too thick to mulch. I think the dealer was right about the mulching blade. Even though I was cutting about 2-3" , the clippings were only about 1/2" long. The clippings dried up and either settled in or blew away in 24 hours. The JD runs a mulches just fine – so far I am happy with it. mulch. Every dealer that sold them as well as other brands, prefer the Hondas. Honda is offering free Same thing for me. The Deere I was looking at (forget the model, they have six of them), was a little more than the Honda Harmony SX, yet he said "Nothing outmulches a Honda."
The dealer I talked to seemed rather impartial – he thought they were The Honda has a composite deck, the JD cast aluminum, therefore the Honda is a little lighter, and supposedly the grass clippings don’t stick to the plastic deck. I do have to clean underneath the deck of the JD after a couple of mowings (about 3 hours). If the clippings really don’t stick to the Honda, that would be a distinct advantage. I’m not sure how durable the composite deck is, however (has honda been making the Harmony for very long?). The JD has 5 speeds, and the Honda 2. This is what swayed me to the JD. It isn’t so much the number of speeds, but JD had a much greater range of slow to fast. I don’t have the specs anymore, but from memory: Honda Speeds (MPH) 2.3, 3.1 JD Speeds (MPH) 1.8, 2.4, 2.9, 3.5, 4.1 I have used the top speed of the JD in a large thin spot in our back yard and it is almost a trot! It’s hard to keep it in a line, however. I’m glad I have the extra flexibility in speeds. The JD also has "pressurized lubrication" which I guess means the oil is under pressure. I’m not sure that is too important, but the dealer told me it really saves engine wear if you mow on a lot of inclines. The JD has a valve that a tube (included) is connected to that allows you to drain the oil. I have changed the oil and it was easy and no mess. At first I was going to get the Deere because I figured it was all American. But someone told me that Deere is foreigned owned and assembled now. I know that Honda’s are assembled in America (I think in N.C.) and I’m very satisfied with their cars (I own an ‘86 CRX and a ‘91 Civic LX). Does anyone know the scoop?
I know the JD has a Kawasaki engine. I think the lower 2 models (that are 4HP) have Briggs & Stratton Engines. I don’t know about foreign ownership. These two are very similar in design. They both have the donut shaped deck needed for mulching, with a hole cut in it that allows bagging and discharging. The hole is in the right rear of the deck so they are rear baggers and side dischargers. In order to mulch, the hole needs to be plugged. They both have a blade clutch/brake, so the deadman stops the blade instead of killing the engine (this was a "must have" for me). I’m happy with the JD. I can’t say I wouldn’t have been happy with the Honda, however. These two did seem to stick out of the crowd. It took me a while to decide which one to get Jeffry L. Jones Tandem Computers Incorporated (512) 244-8914 Austin, TX 78728-6699
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[misc interesting commentary deleted] I never had a thatch problem. The clippings eventually decomposed, and I don’t know why they’d decompose any faster or slower than ones that were smaller but more numerous, as are supposedly those spewn from "mulching mowers," since the total clipping surface area is essentially the same.
[ditto] I claim no special ability, and I do admit to curmundgeon-hood. But my observation is that over-pampering of a lawn debilitates it. I also am skeptical of the claims of mulching-mowers, since I see them as trendy solutions in search of a problem, and an excuse for mower-makers to make your old mower obsolete, and sell you a new one with a capability that somehow makes it more expensive. In other words, 10% value, 90% marketing hype. So as full of hot air as I might be, I like the idea of cheapy $150 mowers that have standard engines and last 5 or 6 years. In addition to being cheap, I’m lazy, so I really don’t care where organic and readily-decomposable clippings fall. If they fall on the pavement, the wind will take care of them by tomorrow. Besides, I’d rather spend my limited outdoor maintenance time no my veggie garden. Dave
I’ve noticed much the same results on my lawn, but still wonder. Has anyone seen any REAL studies on the validity of clipping size? (mulch vs. normal clippings)? Frankly the idea of marketing vs. hype seems all too plausible. But thats good! It means that my $120 Murray is a mean mulching machine! Keith — | New Technology, Inc. Marshall Space Flight Center Huntsville, AL |
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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Honda Mulching: $549 + $50 for bag kit. Designed to be a mulcher w/ an optional bag for when you have too much grass to mulch. Every dealer that sold them as well as other brands, prefer the Hondas. Honda is offering free financing for 6 months (no charge if you pay bill off when it comes due). Toro: 20436 5HP, no blade clutch, $469 + bag kit 20438 5.5HP, blade clutch, $600 + bag kit. 14lbs heavier Designed as a mulcher, very simple to add a bag. Reported to be best at mulching. (all include: non-steel deck, blade/brake clutch, 3 speed self propelled, 2 year warranty etc) I have decided to buy a mulcher that can accept a bag for the times the grass is too thick and must be bagged. I am going to choose between the Honda and Toro. Everyone said the repair costs are the same for Toro and Honda. So the big question… is not having to pay for the mower for 6 months and buying a full featured (wheel bearings, nice handle, brake/clutch, Honda name, dealer recommended) Honda worth $100 to us. If not, then the Toro w/ the 5HP engine is the way to go. -nick
I decided to go with the Toro 20436. Mulching is awesome….as fine as can be ! It took me about 45 minutes to cut my 2/3 acre lawn. I think the Toro is an engineering marvel. Sid
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| | | | Here is what I have found out about high-end mulching mowers: | | | (much good stuff deleted) | | | BUT – | | Last summer I visited the Rodale Research Center in Emmaus, PA. This was a | Sunday afternoon and there weren’t too many Rodale people around to ask | questions of, but there was an area where they were testing the effects of mulching mowers: comparing a mulched plot with a regularly mowed plot. The | results were AMAZING. The mulched plot was much thicker and healthier than | the regular plot. Since I’m not subscribing to O.G. anymore I don’t know | Tom Dugan Naval Research Lab | Washington ,DC | Zone 6? 7? | (It’s been warm the past few years) | | P.S. Ya know, I’ve had that Craftsman 13 years now and it STILL starts on | the first pull. I’m gonna miss it. | | | | When you say they compared a "mulched plot" with a "regular plot," what do | they mean by a "regular plot?" Mowed, with clippings left to lie? Or | mowed with clippings collected? To be honest, I don’t remember what the sign said. I do remember what the lawn patch looked like. I don’t recall seeing any clippings. Probably collected them. Tom Dugan NRL
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I lived for years in a suburban development where everyone bagged their clippings. I had a cheap $150 (new) no-name, self-propelled, B&S mower. I let the clippings fall where they would. I never had a thatch problem. The clippings eventually decomposed, and I don’t know why they’d decompose any faster or slower than ones that were smaller but more numerous, as are supposedly those spewn from "mulching mowers," since the total clipping surface area is essentially the same. My lawn was as green as anyone’s, and at least as healthy and weed free. There were many lawns that the owners spent lots of time and care on that were more disease-ridden and brown than mine. I claim no special ability, and I do admit to curmundgeon-hood. But my observation is that over-pampering of a lawn debilitates it. I also am skeptical of the claims of mulching-mowers, since I see them as trendy solutions in search of a problem, and an excuse for mower-makers to make your old mower obsolete, and sell you a new one with a capability that somehow makes it more expensive. In other words, 10% value, 90% marketing hype. So as full of hot air as I might be, I like the idea of cheapy $150 mowers that have standard engines and last 5 or 6 years. In addition to being cheap, I’m lazy, so I really don’t care where organic and readily-decomposable clippings fall. If they fall on the pavement, the wind will take care of them by tomorrow. Besides, I’d rather spend my limited outdoor maintenance time no my veggie garden. Dave
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So the big question… is not having to pay for the mower for 6 months and buying a full featured (wheel bearings, nice handle, brake/clutch, Honda name, dealer recommended) Honda worth $100 to us. If not, then the Toro w/ the 5HP engine is the way to go.
I have the 5HP Toro and it is excellent! I can’t believe how simple my life is now with such a solid mulching mower. Had it two years and no regrets whatsoever. My lawn is automatically fertilized and has a built-in vapor barrier with the clippings. They are a fine angel hair consistancy and all I do is mow the lawn. Screw all that bagging and fertilizing. Just say, Moe. Cheers! – randy Economists can certainly disappoint you. Many have said that the economy would turn up by the last quarter. Well, I’m down to mine and it hasn’t.
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John Deere: very good. It is designed to cut grass but has a mulching option. Honda Mulching: $549 + $50 for bag kit. Designed to be a mulcher w/ an optional bag for when you have too much grass to
I looked at these two as well just a couple of weeks ago. Both are advertised as mulchers, but Deere has it backwards while Honda did it right. The bag should be optional for a mulcher. Deere comes with the bag yet offers the mulching blade for their "tricycler" as an option. Does that make sense to you? mulch. Every dealer that sold them as well as other brands, prefer the Hondas. Honda is offering free
Same thing for me. The Deere I was looking at (forget the model, they have six of them), was a little more than the Honda Harmony SX, yet he said "Nothing outmulches a Honda." At first I was going to get the Deere because I figured it was all American. But someone told me that Deere is foreigned owned and assembled now. I know that Honda’s are assembled in America (I think in N.C.) and I’m very satisfied with their cars (I own an ‘86 CRX and a ‘91 Civic LX). Does anyone know the scoop? We don’t close until September so I have some time, but I know both the Deere and the Honda will be "on sale" until the end of June, I think. Mark Sterling
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| | Here is what I have found out about high-end mulching mowers: | (much good stuff deleted) | ps: Data above is based on a 2 day research mission and should not be | taken as fact. Another P.G. Co. resident, eh? Currently, I just compost the stuff as I don’t bomb the lawn with chemicals (or fertilizer for the matter: barely qualifies as a lawn). BUT – Last summer I visited the Rodale Research Center in Emmaus, PA. This was a Sunday afternoon and there weren’t too many Rodale people around to ask questions of, but there was an area where they were testing the effects of mulching mowers: comparing a mulched plot with a regularly mowed plot. The results were AMAZING. The mulched plot was much thicker and healthier than the regular plot. Since I’m not subscribing to O.G. anymore I don’t know what the published results were. I do know that when my current Craftsman 20"er poops out (very soon now) I’ll buy a mulcher. Another thing: has anyone seen the new Ryobi cordless electric in the stores yet? Do they have a mulching version? Tom Dugan Naval Research Lab Washington ,DC Zone 6? 7? (It’s been warm the past few years) P.S. Ya know, I’ve had that Craftsman 13 years now and it STILL starts on the first pull. I’m gonna miss it.
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I bought a John Deere 2 speed last fall when it was my turn to mow the half acre of lawn at our new house and my husband’s back was out because he is foolish sometimes. I bought it at end of the season at our local dealer when Mom and Dad were on vacation and the teenagers were left in charge. I got a GREAT deal. My husband and I can’t beleve how wonderful it is. Firstly, the clippings just disappear. When you walk across the lawn after mowing, boots are not coverered with grass bits. Second, the lawn is much healthier than at out old place. We have very acid soil, are surrounded by cedar trees and expected to either give up on the grand expanse or have to resort to chem. weed and feed. And lastly, we just endured weeks of heavy rain. Needless to say the grass before cutting was long enough to fall over and it was soaked. We shrugged and cut anyway – at the highest setting. NO problem. Also I have another lawn hint. Water drained into one area and was very soggy. I knew the clay hardpan was about 8 in. below surface and as solid as a layer of concrete. I did not want to get the pick and shovel out so I made up an easy solution. I bought a 4 ft spike like the kind the septic guy used to find our septic tank and poked 3′ deep 2 in wide holes – many. And I backed filled them with peat moss. Drainage is much improved! and I put some soil over the top and seeded.
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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – | | Here is what I have found out about high-end mulching mowers: | (much good stuff deleted) | ps: Data above is based on a 2 day research mission and should not be | taken as fact. Another P.G. Co. resident, eh? Currently, I just compost the stuff as I don’t bomb the lawn with chemicals (or fertilizer for the matter: barely qualifies as a lawn). BUT – Last summer I visited the Rodale Research Center in Emmaus, PA. This was a Sunday afternoon and there weren’t too many Rodale people around to ask questions of, but there was an area where they were testing the effects of mulching mowers: comparing a mulched plot with a regularly mowed plot. The results were AMAZING. The mulched plot was much thicker and healthier than the regular plot. Since I’m not subscribing to O.G. anymore I don’t know what the published results were. I do know that when my current Craftsman 20"er poops out (very soon now) I’ll buy a mulcher. Another thing: has anyone seen the new Ryobi cordless electric in the stores yet? Do they have a mulching version? Tom Dugan Naval Research Lab Washington ,DC Zone 6? 7? (It’s been warm the past few years) P.S. Ya know, I’ve had that Craftsman 13 years now and it STILL starts on the first pull. I’m gonna miss it.
When you say they compared a "mulched plot" with a "regular plot," what do they mean by a "regular plot?" Mowed, with clippings left to lie? Or mowed with clippings collected?
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Here is what I have found out about high-end mulching mowers:
summary deleted You didn’t mention the Troy-Bilt mulching mowers. I have one and like it very much (only had it for about a month now). $300 dollars for the basic model, self-propelled and riding are more expensive of course. I have been told that the Lawn-Boy 2-cycle engine will be phased out, since it doesn’t meet the upcoming emission regulations. Somebody might know more about this. Anyway, all of my experience with 2-cycle engines is that they do put out more smoke. — Rob Pauley Georgia Tech Research Institute
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Here is what I have found out about high-end mulching mowers: The county that I live in, is proposing that lawn refuse (clippings, twigs, leaves etc) be banned from landfills. Based on this and the fact that w/o baggin clippings I might be able to save 1/3 of the time it normally takes cutting my half acre lawn, I am going to purchase a mulcher. My other requirement was for a self propelled mower. (the following comes from vendors, not my actual experience) Mulching mowers work well. They chop the grass into 1/8" or less pieces and force them into the lawn. Various studies have shown they do not increase thatch. Mowers that are not designed as mulchers will not do as well, they might cut grass well, but probably wont make the tiny clippings that are required to help the grass decompose. $500-600 is alot to spend but the only other options were: 1) $300 mower that will last 3-5 years and will not be fun to use (ie: heavy, unmanuverable etc) 2) riding mower $600-1500 + a push mower for hills and places the riding mower cant go. Options: John Deere: very good. It is designed to cut grass but has a mulching option. Lawnboy: very good. Biggest benefit is cutting hills, two stroke engines keep things lubricated while the mower is slanted. Cutter 1st, mulching option. Honda Mulching: $549 + $50 for bag kit. Designed to be a mulcher w/ an optional bag for when you have too much grass to mulch. Every dealer that sold them as well as other brands, prefer the Hondas. Honda is offering free financing for 6 months (no charge if you pay bill off when it comes due). Toro: 20436 5HP, no blade clutch, $469 + bag kit 20438 5.5HP, blade clutch, $600 + bag kit. 14lbs heavier Designed as a mulcher, very simple to add a bag. Reported to be best at mulching. (all include: non-steel deck, blade/brake clutch, 3 speed self propelled, 2 year warranty etc) The blade clutch (recommended by Consumer Reports) is nice when you have to stop the mower and take off the bag. but if you a mulching, you shouldnt have to stop that much. Also the blade/clutch is another piece that might need repairs. I have decided to buy a mulcher that can accept a bag for the times the grass is too thick and must be bagged. I am going to choose between the Honda and Toro. Everyone said the repair costs are the same for Toro and Honda. So the big question… is not having to pay for the mower for 6 months and buying a full featured (wheel bearings, nice handle, brake/clutch, Honda name, dealer recommended) Honda worth $100 to us. If not, then the Toro w/ the 5HP engine is the way to go. -nick ps: Data above is based on a 2 day research mission and should not be taken as fact.