I put my first driver together last yr, ordered the components from Golf Works, I went with a 450 cc head and graphite shaft, it was there kit application and I am very happy with it. That being said I would order next time a clone club, because there not that expensive, some companies give you 30 days trial period, You can get a nice clone of a major manufacture for about $150 or less, and at those prices and the way technology changes you can try others in the future. Tom F
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi folks. During this off season (I’m in WI), I’m planning on building a new driver for myself. And I have some questions. First of all, a little info about myself: I don’t believe in equipment before mechanics, and I’m not the kind of person changing clubs all the time. But right now I’m using a $20 driver I got at some sporting goods store a few years ago, and I’m convinced a new driver will help. I’ve hit friend’s expensive drivers (the type that have become so popular the last few years; very light, large heads), and they do improve my drives. I’m about a 20 handicap, and I only golf maybe 2 or 3 times a month. I’m not looking for something that’ll give me the most distance, but rather something more forgiving; I want to be in the fariway more often. I’m 37 years old, 6′ tall, and fairly fit; I don’t need an "old man’s" driver. So, my questions are: – what size/weight head to use? – what length/type shaft to use (I’m thinking steel) Do I need to go somewhere to have my swing analyzed before I can choose the equipment? How much might a home-made drive cost? Thanks!
Size is partly dependent on what looks good to you. I think you should consider something at about 360cc or higher. Frankly, it’s about impossible to mishit a ball too terribly with today’s large heads.
Hehehe!!! You obviously haven’t seen me play! :-) Dave Clary/Corpus Christi, Tx Home: http://home.stx.rr.com/dclary RSG Roll Call http://www.rec-sport-golf.com/members/?rollcall=claryd
But I’m not here to dissuade you–I’m here to draw you, inexorably, into the Dark Side. BTW, do you know about RSG-Wisconsin? We hold it the weekend after Father’s Day.
Nice going, Mike…deftly working both sides of the street 
Been thinking, of course, about the B-o-Matic. I’ve had Fuji shafts quoted from G’smith for $65. Suggestions for less costly and still serviceable alternatives? Like: Graffaloy Blue, perhaps? EI70? What think you? Peter
High end components can be found from Dynacraft…decent quality can be found at hireko.com
Take a closer look at the Dynacraft components. Some are the same components Hireko is selling with the "Dynacraft" name on them. David Laville, G.S.E.M. The Golfing Machine Authorized Instructor
says… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – But I’m not here to dissuade you–I’m here to draw you, inexorably, into the Dark Side. BTW, do you know about RSG-Wisconsin? We hold it the weekend after Father’s Day. Nice going, Mike…deftly working both sides of the street Been thinking, of course, about the B-o-Matic. I’ve had Fuji shafts quoted from G’smith for $65. Suggestions for less costly and still serviceable alternatives? Like: Graffaloy Blue, perhaps? EI70? What think you? Peter
Peter, If you’re looking for a decent affordable graphite shaft, consider a Penley. They tend to run a little soft, which is not such a bad thing for the BoM considering it’s bore depth. I put a Penley Tour Lite R flex in my BoM, sunk it all the way in and am very pleasd with the results. Kenny — Kenny Stultz – Troll and SPAM intolerant RSG Rollcall: http://rec-sport-golf.com/members/?rollcall=stultzk "Golf is the only sport where a precise knowledge of the Rules can earn one a reputation for bad sportsmanship"
I’d give you a suggestion or two if I knew a bit more about your swing. What is the loft of your current driver?
10.5 What’s your typical (not max) driving distance? I’d guestimate 235. Do you consider yourself to have a smooth or quick swing (help from others here is valid)?
My nature is to have a quick swing; I have to consciously slow my back swing down most of the time. Thanks Mike!
Thanks, Kenny. Will take it under advisement. Still pondering whether I want to make the move. It’s very hard for me to ask for stuff this pricey (head=$125) for a present. Hangover from having been a child of the Depression. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – says… But I’m not here to dissuade you–I’m here to draw you, inexorably, into the Dark Side. BTW, do you know about RSG-Wisconsin? We hold it the weekend after Father’s Day. Nice going, Mike…deftly working both sides of the street Been thinking, of course, about the B-o-Matic. I’ve had Fuji shafts quoted from G’smith for $65. Suggestions for less costly and still serviceable alternatives? Like: Graffaloy Blue, perhaps? EI70? What think you? Peter Peter, If you’re looking for a decent affordable graphite shaft, consider a Penley. They tend to run a little soft, which is not such a bad thing for the BoM considering it’s bore depth. I put a Penley Tour Lite R flex in my BoM, sunk it all the way in and am very pleasd with the results. Kenny
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi folks. During this off season (I’m in WI), I’m planning on building a new driver for myself. And I have some questions. – what length/type shaft to use (I’m thinking steel) Why steel? Cost? Or something swing-related? If this is your first foray into clubmaking, making a steel-shafted driver may be a better bet for you than graphite. On the other hand, one benefit of the larger heads is that you can build a longer driver, which if you hit the ball in the center of the clubface, will result in longer drives. This is my first time making clubs. I was thinking steel to reduce flex, which would hopefully make the club more accurate. I’m of the opinion (feel free to educate me) that the few extra yards I’d get from a graphite shaft aren’t worth the decrease in accuracy.
Flex is determined by the specs of the shaft. It’s quite possible to have a very flexible steel shaft as opposed to a very stiff graphite shaft. Steel and graphite do differ in terms of torque, which is the ability of the shaft to resist twisting. A very torquey shaft (one with torque around 5 degrees or more) may not be particularly good, but there are many graphite shafts which are quite reasonable in terms of torque. About the best thing I can say is that among all the people on RSG who have long drivers, including single-digit handicappers, virtually all of them will have graphite in their drivers. Accuracy of the club will depend on a number of things. One is the length of the club. Shorter clubs are easier to control. Accuracy will also depend on flex (too stiff or too flexible is too hard to control), torque (too much or too little is bad), swingweight (too heavy or too light will make it difficult for you to make a good smooth swing), grip size, how it’s spine aligned–heck, there’s a bunch of things that contribute. But I’m not here to dissuade you–I’m here to draw you, inexorably, into the Dark Side. I’d give you a suggestion or two if I knew a bit more about your swing. What is the loft of your current driver? What’s your typical (not max) driving distance? Do you consider yourself to have a smooth or quick swing (help from others here is valid)? A shaft I like for mid-to-high handicappers is the Grafalloy Prolite 45. I like the quality, and the price is decent (‘prox $28). Mike BTW, do you know about RSG-Wisconsin? We hold it the weekend after Father’s Day. Mike Dalecki GCA Accredited Clubmaker RSG-Wisconsin 2003 Information: http://dalecki.net/rsgwis2003 RSG Roll Call: http://rec-sport-golf.com/members/?rollcall=daleckim I do not patronize spammers. Help keep RSG clean!
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi folks. During this off season (I’m in WI), I’m planning on building a new driver for myself. And I have some questions. – what length/type shaft to use (I’m thinking steel) Why steel? Cost? Or something swing-related? If this is your first foray into clubmaking, making a steel-shafted driver may be a better bet for you than graphite. On the other hand, one benefit of the larger heads is that you can build a longer driver, which if you hit the ball in the center of the clubface, will result in longer drives.
This is my first time making clubs. I was thinking steel to reduce flex, which would hopefully make the club more accurate. I’m of the opinion (feel free to educate me) that the few extra yards I’d get from a graphite shaft aren’t worth the decrease in accuracy.
Hi folks. During this off season (I’m in WI), I’m planning on building a new driver for myself. And I have some questions.
If you hurry (well, don’t hurry–that breeds mistakes), you can still use it this year. :) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – First of all, a little info about myself: I don’t believe in equipment before mechanics, and I’m not the kind of person changing clubs all the time. But right now I’m using a $20 driver I got at some sporting goods store a few years ago, and I’m convinced a new driver will help. I’ve hit friend’s expensive drivers (the type that have become so popular the last few years; very light, large heads), and they do improve my drives. I’m about a 20 handicap, and I only golf maybe 2 or 3 times a month. I’m not looking for something that’ll give me the most distance, but rather something more forgiving; I want to be in the fariway more often. I’m 37 years old, 6′ tall, and fairly fit; I don’t need an "old man’s" driver. So, my questions are: – what size/weight head to use?
Size is partly dependent on what looks good to you. I think you should consider something at about 360cc or higher. Frankly, it’s about impossible to mishit a ball too terribly with today’s large heads. You might determine what the size of your friend’s clubheads are as a point of reference. About weight: Component driver clubheads all weigh about the same, in the area of about 195-200 grams. Unless you are modelling a specific set of specs for a driver where a heavier head would perform better for you than a lighter one, it won’t matter much. – what length/type shaft to use (I’m thinking steel)
Why steel? Cost? Or something swing-related? If this is your first foray into clubmaking, making a steel-shafted driver may be a better bet for you than graphite. On the other hand, one benefit of the larger heads is that you can build a longer driver, which if you hit the ball in the center of the clubface, will result in longer drives. I think you should consider graphite because it’s lighter and will allow you to maximize the performance possibilities of the head. Do I need to go somewhere to have my swing analyzed before I can choose the equipment?
It wouldn’t hurt. The worst that could happen is you’d learn something about your swing. I’d also want them to evaluate your current driver to see how it compares to what they’d suggest. How much might a home-made drive cost? Depends on the components. You can get very nice titanium heads on sale from Golfworks for under $50. A steel shaft will run you around $8, give or take. A grip is $2 unless you want a Winn or Cord, which will run $4-5. Graphite shafts will run from low $20s to roughly $40. Mike Mike Dalecki GCA Accredited Clubmaker RSG-Wisconsin 2003 Information: http://dalecki.net/rsgwis2003 RSG Roll Call: http://rec-sport-golf.com/members/?rollcall=daleckim I do not patronize spammers. Help keep RSG clean!
Homemade driver will cost $25-80 for the head and $25-60 for the shaft, + a few bucks for the grip, glue, etc. High end components can be found from Dynacraft…decent quality can be found at hireko.com. Also look at diamondtour.com and taylorgolfsupply.com, who specialize in Integra components, some of the best stuff out there…
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi folks. During this off season (I’m in WI), I’m planning on building a new driver for myself. And I have some questions. First of all, a little info about myself: I don’t believe in equipment before mechanics, and I’m not the kind of person changing clubs all the time. But right now I’m using a $20 driver I got at some sporting goods store a few years ago, and I’m convinced a new driver will help. I’ve hit friend’s expensive drivers (the type that have become so popular the last few years; very light, large heads), and they do improve my drives. I’m about a 20 handicap, and I only golf maybe 2 or 3 times a month. I’m not looking for something that’ll give me the most distance, but rather something more forgiving; I want to be in the fariway more often. I’m 37 years old, 6′ tall, and fairly fit; I don’t need an "old man’s" driver. So, my questions are: – what size/weight head to use? – what length/type shaft to use (I’m thinking steel) Do I need to go somewhere to have my swing analyzed before I can choose the equipment? How much might a home-made drive cost? Thanks!
Hi folks. During this off season (I’m in WI), I’m planning on building a new driver for myself. And I have some questions. First of all, a little info about myself: I don’t believe in equipment before mechanics, and I’m not the kind of person changing clubs all the time. But right now I’m using a $20 driver I got at some sporting goods store a few years ago, and I’m convinced a new driver will help. I’ve hit friend’s expensive drivers (the type that have become so popular the last few years; very light, large heads), and they do improve my drives. I’m about a 20 handicap, and I only golf maybe 2 or 3 times a month. I’m not looking for something that’ll give me the most distance, but rather something more forgiving; I want to be in the fariway more often. I’m 37 years old, 6′ tall, and fairly fit; I don’t need an "old man’s" driver. So, my questions are: – what size/weight head to use? – what length/type shaft to use (I’m thinking steel) Do I need to go somewhere to have my swing analyzed before I can choose the equipment? How much might a home-made drive cost? Thanks!
To quote my 4 year old son… "Chicks dig the long ball."
Foregoing distance is not a compromise for accuracy. Do the pros make a concession for – accuracy? not hardly. An errant strike is the result of a poor striking technique. The accuracy for distance alibi is an old worn out excuse, often used – when one’s ability to, "distance" – suffers. === But is anybody who is looking for more distance willing to trade off
accuracy to get it?
XD – maybe "extra distance". the fulikura shafts most have something going for them. ——- I don’t know what the XD adds, beyond the initials.
m h o
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I certainly agree that buying the wrong shaft because that is all that is in stock is a very poor idea. But I have NEVER seen a Mizuno MP-33 at a golf shop with a regular flex shaft. And the Mizuno website lists it as a custom only order. I’ve never seen a Hogan Apex forged blade in regular flex either, but at least it isn’t a ‘custom only’ configuration. dave That’s a good point I hadn’t thought of. High end player’s clubs may not be stocked with regular flex shafts. But keep in mind that very few players who would (or at least should) be buying those clubs would be getting them with R-flex shafts. Anyone playing those clubs will most likely want an S-flex shaft for added control. If someone needs R-flex shafts in MP-33 irons for added distance then they most likely are playing the wrong club to begin with. There will be exceptions, but for the most part I think that will be the rule. But every shop with the space should have X-14’s and similar clubs in R and S flex. Tom Watson has always used R flex shafts, as I recall. Dunno, but if he did he had them in RAM Forged Blades for a lot of his career.
He was Mr. Ram. Now he’s Mr. Adams! — RSG Masters 2004 pre-preliminary format http://home.att.net/~frostback2002 RSG Roll Call: http://rec-sport-golf.com/?rc=frostback "The privilege of a lifetime is being who you are" Joseph Campbell
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I certainly agree that buying the wrong shaft because that is all that is in stock is a very poor idea. But I have NEVER seen a Mizuno MP-33 at a golf shop with a regular flex shaft. And the Mizuno website lists it as a custom only order. I’ve never seen a Hogan Apex forged blade in regular flex either, but at least it isn’t a ‘custom only’ configuration. dave That’s a good point I hadn’t thought of. High end player’s clubs may not be stocked with regular flex shafts. But keep in mind that very few players who would (or at least should) be buying those clubs would be getting them with R-flex shafts. Anyone playing those clubs will most likely want an S-flex shaft for added control. If someone needs R-flex shafts in MP-33 irons for added distance then they most likely are playing the wrong club to begin with. There will be exceptions, but for the most part I think that will be the rule. But every shop with the space should have X-14’s and similar clubs in R and S flex. Tom Watson has always used R flex shafts, as I recall.
Dunno, but if he did he had them in RAM Forged Blades for a lot of his career.
Just doing a random search on E-bay, I notice the drivers and iron sets being resold are quite often stiff flex. Is this because the owners over- estimate their swing speed and realize they have the wrong flex? I’d suspect it’s more likely just that most ‘name’ clubs come with stiff shafts.
<snipped "name" clubs ship with whatever flex shaft you order and any reputable dealer with a decent sized shop will stock both regular and stiff flexes, some will even have senior and ladies flex in stock. If for some reason the dealer doesn’t have a specific flex in stock the player is an idiot for accepting the wrong shaft. And of course, the player should also find another shop that has the integrity to tell the customer they are getting the wrong shaft. — Dan Driscoll Member – NCGA RSG FAQ: http://ttsoft.com/thor/rsggolf.html RSG Roll Call http://rec-sport-golf.com/members/?rollcall=driscolld
Just doing a random search on E-bay, I notice the drivers and iron sets being resold are quite often stiff flex. Is this because the owners over- estimate their swing speed and realize they have the wrong flex?
Just doing a random search on E-bay, I notice the drivers and iron sets being resold are quite often stiff flex. Is this because the owners over- estimate their swing speed and realize they have the wrong flex?
I’d suspect it’s more likely just that most ‘name’ clubs come with stiff shafts. My MacGregors and my Hogans both had stiff shafts in them when they shipped from the factory, as do my brother’s Titleists, my friend’s Pings, another friend’s Taylormades, another friend’s Mizunos…big ticket irons and (in many cases) drivers are just shipped with stiff shafts. Now, whether the guys on Ebay are selling them because they can’t hit stiff shafts are another matter… Todd – still searchin’ for more with X100’s Prof. Rev. Todd "Runyan" McGillivray, Esq. http://cplhicks.tripod.com/ Emailing me? tmcg at sasktel dot net. "Even the Mona Lisa’s fallin’ apart." – Fight Club
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I certainly agree that buying the wrong shaft because that is all that is in stock is a very poor idea. But I have NEVER seen a Mizuno MP-33 at a golf shop with a regular flex shaft. And the Mizuno website lists it as a custom only order. I’ve never seen a Hogan Apex forged blade in regular flex either, but at least it isn’t a ‘custom only’ configuration. dave That’s a good point I hadn’t thought of. High end player’s clubs may not be stocked with regular flex shafts. But keep in mind that very few players who would (or at least should) be buying those clubs would be getting them with R-flex shafts. Anyone playing those clubs will most likely want an S-flex shaft for added control. If someone needs R-flex shafts in MP-33 irons for added distance then they most likely are playing the wrong club to begin with. There will be exceptions, but for the most part I think that will be the rule. But every shop with the space should have X-14’s and similar clubs in R and S flex.
Tom Watson has always used R flex shafts, as I recall. — RSG Masters 2004 pre-preliminary format http://home.att.net/~frostback2002 RSG Roll Call: http://rec-sport-golf.com/?rc=frostback "The privilege of a lifetime is being who you are" Joseph Campbell
I certainly agree that buying the wrong shaft because that is all that is in stock is a very poor idea. But I have NEVER seen a Mizuno MP-33 at a golf shop with a regular flex shaft. And the Mizuno website lists it as a custom only order. I’ve never seen a Hogan Apex forged blade in regular flex either, but at least it isn’t a ‘custom only’ configuration. dave
That’s a good point I hadn’t thought of. High end player’s clubs may not be stocked with regular flex shafts. But keep in mind that very few players who would (or at least should) be buying those clubs would be getting them with R-flex shafts. Anyone playing those clubs will most likely want an S-flex shaft for added control. If someone needs R-flex shafts in MP-33 irons for added distance then they most likely are playing the wrong club to begin with. There will be exceptions, but for the most part I think that will be the rule. But every shop with the space should have X-14’s and similar clubs in R and S flex. — Dan Driscoll Member – NCGA RSG FAQ: http://ttsoft.com/thor/rsggolf.html RSG Roll Call http://rec-sport-golf.com/members/?rollcall=driscolld
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – snip "name" clubs ship with whatever flex shaft you order and any reputable dealer with a decent sized shop will stock both regular and stiff flexes, some will even have senior and ladies flex in stock. If for some reason the dealer doesn’t have a specific flex in stock the player is an idiot for accepting the wrong shaft. And of course, the player should also find another shop that has the integrity to tell the customer they are getting the wrong shaft. — Dan Driscoll Member – NCGA RSG FAQ: http://ttsoft.com/thor/rsggolf.html RSG Roll Call http://rec-sport-golf.com/members/?rollcall=driscolld
I certainly agree that buying the wrong shaft because that is all that is in stock is a very poor idea. But I have NEVER seen a Mizuno MP-33 at a golf shop with a regular flex shaft. And the Mizuno website lists it as a custom only order. I’ve never seen a Hogan Apex forged blade in regular flex either, but at least it isn’t a ‘custom only’ configuration. dave
Not being a PGA professional or in any way compensated as one… <g I think you’re right. We all like to think that we’re a little better than we are, and that we need clubs that fit the next level of ability, believing that having such equipment will help us achieve the desired goal. Of course, it’s also about the fact that we all need more flexible shafts (on our golf clubs!) as we age and our clubhead speed decreases. Few people move from regular to stiff shafts over time. This is why one should attempt to purchase clubs from a PGA professional or an expert on clubs, and why that expertise may be worth a few extra bucks. Club fitting is a service that pays off, expecially as our game and our physical abilities change over time. I recently purchased a new driver and my pro and I believed I’m at the borderline between a stiff and regular shaft. I chose the regular shaft, with his approval, because it’s not just about where your swing is today; it’s also about where it will be a few years down the road (unless you replace clubs every year <g). — Michael L. Wyland Sumption & Wyland 818 South Hawthorne Avenue Sioux Falls, SD 57104-4537 (605) 336-0244 (605) 336-0275 (FAX) (888) 4-SUMPTION (toll-free) http://www.sumptionandwyland.com — free e-newsletter sign-up — new article: "The Giving Sky is Falling…Or Is It?"
Cart fees for two days were included in the entry fee for the club championship at my club. The third day (field was cut in each flight), payment was optional. You were not required to ride, but obviously it was strongly encouraged. Ken – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Anyone heeard of this? Allowed anywhere? New club i just joined allowed it. Quite weired. I thought players had to have a medical certificate but it was not the case. Do the guys of tour ride in carts?
Anyone heeard of this? Allowed anywhere? New club i just joined allowed it. Quite weired. I thought players had to have a medical certificate but it was not the case. Do the guys of tour ride in carts?
Use of a ride-on cart in any golf tournament is governed by a statement in the ‘Conditions of Competition’ for that particular tournament, or at some clubs it may be a standing regulation covering standing events on the Club calender. In the latter case, if it is mentioned at all, it is common that the facility is only available to players who have registered a current medical certificate with their Club Committee. In major tournaments ‘Conditions of Competition’ expressly disallow the use of ride on carts for players or caddies at any time during a stipulated round. In Victorian Pennant events, Rules officials are permitted to carry players only in isolated instances in the interests of ‘pace of play’. It is often useful, in the interests of ‘pace of play’, to pick up a player who is trudging back up a long steep hill with his driver, in order to exercise a ’stroke and distance’ penalty. If the matter is not mentioned in the ‘Conditions of Competition’ for any tournament then there absolutely nothing to prevent a player using a ride-on cart during a competition round of golf. …and just in case you ask…what about tour players be carried on golf carts back to the tees for play-off holes in stroke competition? …’Conditions of Competition’ will only bar players using ride-on of a stipulated round in strokeplay! cheers david
Anyone heeard of this? Allowed anywhere? New club i just joined allowed it. Quite weired. I thought players had to have a medical certificate but it was not the case. Do the guys of tour ride in carts?
Anyone heeard of this? Allowed anywhere? New club i just joined allowed it. Quite weird. I thought players had to have a medical certificate but it was not the case. Do the guys of tour ride in carts?
If you’re Nicki from Canberra, then yes, carts should only be allowed under medical certification. — Cheers Colin Wilson RSG Roll Call: http://rec-sport-golf.com/members/?rollcall=wilsonc Trentham Golf Club: http://www.trenthamgolf.com
Oops, I didn’t get the URL in my previous post https://www.golfoundry.com/usa/usa-index.htm Powerflex 6686 – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I put these in a set of irons. I really like the play of them. They’re relatively cheap, and the spine wasn’t really pronounced, although it was findable. I’ve used them for 40 or 50 rounds. I did snap one at the hosel, however. I hit a fat shot and loosened the ferrule, but continued using the club. A few holes later I tried to use it on a tight lie and snapped the head off. I think if I’d not used it until I’d repaired it, it would have been fine. Anyway, to answer your question about where to get filament wound. These shafts are cheap, usable, and I’ve ordered from this company half a dozen times. They always have things in stock and are pretty quick on getting stuff out. They’re also about as reasonably priced as online component company I’ve seen. Dave
I have ‘tested’ one or two filament wound shafts (eg. an old EI 70 ‘filament wound’, and a ‘Scotland’ filament wound shaft) and I was unable to detect any spine at all. It is interesting that neither of these shafts are still in production (IIFIK), and all three of the ‘Scotland’ shafts that I had snapped off at the hosel insert point. I have steered clear of filament wound shafts ever since!
I’ve got some True Temper filament wound shafts in my 3- and 5-woods. They’re about five years old … I rescued them from a Henry-Griffitts driver and 3-wood that I wasn’t happy with … had to cut them down by nearly 3 inches to convert them to standard 3- and 5-wood length! I’ve used them constantly since and never had a breakage. From my reading, the advantage of filament wound shafts has traditionally been the consistency. The disadvantage can be a lower strength, coming from an excess of resin which is hard to control in the production process … there is a lower graphite to resin ratio inherent in the process. There is also an extra production cost in that they are wound to about 10% oversized, then the extra resin is ground off to produce a shaft of the correct external diameter. Companies like Harrison now claim that sheet lamination has reached a level of quality that makes for frequency uniformity very close to filament winding, and with the stronger construction and lower expense it makes the cost of filament winding hard to substantiate. — Cheers Colin Wilson RSG Roll Call: http://rec-sport-golf.com/members/?rollcall=wilsonc Trentham Golf Club: http://www.trenthamgolf.com
don’t know about the spine aspect, but if it has one, it "should" be of an iso nature. A good choice, the filament wound shaft, where are you finding them? ===== I am going to build a couple of woods (3w & 5w) and was thinking of putting in some FW shafts. Comments? m h o v fe
I put these in a set of irons. I really like the play of them. They’re relatively cheap, and the spine wasn’t really pronounced, although it was findable. I’ve used them for 40 or 50 rounds. I did snap one at the hosel, however. I hit a fat shot and loosened the ferrule, but continued using the club. A few holes later I tried to use it on a tight lie and snapped the head off. I think if I’d not used it until I’d repaired it, it would have been fine. Anyway, to answer your question about where to get filament wound. These shafts are cheap, usable, and I’ve ordered from this company half a dozen times. They always have things in stock and are pretty quick on getting stuff out. They’re also about as reasonably priced as online component company I’ve seen. Dave
Nothing pertaining to golf, has spines. Especially the participants.
So much for the filament wound shafts. When a club failure happens – it usually is that the shaft breaks apart near the top of the hosel. Good preparation of the shaft, and proper application of the epoxy will usually prevent this from happening. (there might be exceptions) Prepping a shaft should be done with care. Trimming properly, and the "sanding" (getting rid of the glossy / slick surface) should be done in a minimal way, and uniformly. An one inch belt sander with medium paper is ideal for the job when done with care. In lieu of mechanical means for prepping the shaft, (other than steel) a single edge razor blade, or utility knife used properly works fine for, light scraping, in removing the slick / glossy surface. A "slightly" rough / clean surface makes for a good bond, both on metal, and "graphite" areas. The proper wetting-out (with epoxy) of all the surfaces to be joined together is a good practice. I try to do this procedure w/just enough epoxy – but not enough to have an excess amount of the epoxy flow up the bore of the shaft. The two part epoxy application should be mixed throughly, and let cure properly. There are manuals on clubmaking available for about 10 bucks. You can also call 1800 456 3344 (Golfsmith) and ask for their free catalog which has "pointers" – throughout it – on the "clubmaking" procedure. v
Does picking the ball clean mean that I am sweeping the iron and not making any divots? If so, is this preferable than making any divot at all.
Possibly. It could mean you’re blading or topping the ball. What it does mean is that you’re not hitting the ball in the sweet spot on the most forgiving portion of your downswing. With a perfect swing this doesn’t matter, as you won’t need forgiveness. But perfection is hard to come by.
Does picking the ball clean mean that I am sweeping the iron and not making any divots?
Yes. If so, is this preferable than making any divot at all.
No. If you are Greg Norman, then it might be OK for you. Unfortunately, you are not Greg Norman. Give yourself the same break virtually all good players get. Take a divot.
Also (I haven’t seen this in print), it may be easier to get a consistent swing when you can see your results with a consistent divot.
It is certainly something that can give you feedback. Your divot, including its mere existence, can give you important clues as to what the clubhead is doing through contact.
well, with fairway woods, and irons, I position the ball midway between the feet. And keep my eyes on the ball, until the club strikes the ball. Actually when striking the ball, I try to "pinch" the club face between the ball, and the turf. When the ball is struck properly, the divot will appear 3-5 inches in front of where the ball was struck. Was the pros, and view their divots. Strike with a square club face, on the sweet spot, and follow through. —– I just started using my 7I. I understand you are supposed to hit down and take a divot under the
ball. Sometimes i hit the ball square no divot and it travels around 140. Yes, I feel it in my hands. Is there anything wrong with hitting in a manner like this if the ball
goes 140 and straight. Should you be aiming at the backside of the ball. When I hit my driver I was told to keep head down but not *aim* at the ball. Lastly, what is the ball position for the various irons. I usually hit
my 7I in the middle. Regards, Ken
m h o
Here are the ways you can add swingweight (in the sense we were talking about it, i.e., the clubhead feels heavier): 1. Add lead tape. (Easiest to do, but the least aesthetic).
Actually I think it looks pretty cool. More so on irons than on woods, but still….
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – After demoing many drivers this summer, I bought a new Titleist 983K based on a launch monitor fitting with Titleist. I’ve had decent results but have found myself less consistent and somewhat shorter with it that with the demo 983K (same shaft) that I borrow from time to time. I asked a club fitter locally to look at it and he told me that the swingweight was C8 (983K head, 44.5 inch YS-6 stiff shaft, standard Titleist cord grip). I’m wondering whether this could be causing the sense I have that it’s difficult to get a feel for where the head of the driver is during my swing. Can anyone help me with the "normal" swingweight range for drivers?? Would a lighter grip (?Winn swingweight a bit? Are there other methods? Thanks! Jeff Changing grips will only fool a swingweight scale–it won’t change how well you can feel the clubhead. What you need to do is either lengthen the club (problematic) or add weight to the clubhead. Try adding some lead tape to the driver clubhead and see what happens as you bring the swingweight up. Start w/ 2 grams and increase it about 2 grams at a time. A good place to do that is on the heel. Mike PS: Mine’s about D3. Thanks to both you and jeffc for the advice. I hate to be ignorant about this (in this case, it easy….) but I don’t understand why using a lighter grip is "cheating" or "fooling" the scale. I thought the swingweight issue was one of balance and that, if it mattered what weight the grip was when it went on the club, it would matter if you switched to a lighter one. If you have the patience to straighten me out, I’d appreciate it. Jeff
Swingweight is a very crude measure of what I call "swingheaviness." In essence, what you’re trying to measure is how heavy that weight feels at the end of a long lever. Take a club like a 3-iron. Tape two nickels in the cavity in the back of the head (or on the back of the blade if that’s what you have). Also, tape two nickels on the end of the grip. What you’ve done is to add 10 grams to the head and 10 grams to the grip end (where it will have the greatest effect on measured swingweight). Now, swing the club. It should feel very heavy to you, heavy at the head. Take the two nickels off the grip, and swing it again. It should still feel just about as heavy to you. Now, replace the nickels at the grip end, and take off the nickels taped to the head. It should feel a whole lot lighter than what you had before. If you think about it this way, what you have is weight at the end of a long lever. When you add weight to the grip (or subtract it), you’re not doing anything to the effect of that weight at the head end of the club. And since your hands are essentially the fulcrum of that long lever, what you’re doing when you add or subtract weight via the grip is adding or subtracting weight at the *fulcrum* of that lever, not at the business end where you really feel it. Now, total weight of a club *does* matter, in terms of feel and in terms of the ability to swing it well. But weight at the grip is a relatively minor issue in those terms. As a measure of "swingheaviness," swingweight is a very poor measure. A better measure is moment of inertia (as Kenny Stultz for a quick lesson on that, or search google for Kenny’s name and "moment of inertia" or "MOI." In fact, it’s an issue when making a club. When someone says they want a specific swingweight, it’s always a guess as to what grip weight they would intend w/ that swingweight. With a 50-gram grip, a D0 swingweight will feel different than it will with a 63-gram grip. Such a heavier grip will cause a SW scale to register about a C7; but in reality, it’s still the same weight at the end of a lever the same length. I think that clubmaking generally is moving in the direction of using MOI to measure swingheaviness, instead of swingweight. We’ve had discussions here about how to measure it (in assembled clubs), with Kenny, Thoms Prufer, and myself among others involved. Tom Wishon Golf is now offering a device to measure MOI. Do the nickel test. See what happens when you add weight to different places and see for yourself how changing weight in different places changes the swingheavy feel of a club. Mike Mike Dalecki GCA Accredited Clubmaker http://clubdoctor.com RSG-Wisconsin 2003 Information: http://dalecki.net/rsgwis2003 RSG Roll Call: http://rec-sport-golf.com/members/?rollcall=daleckim I do not patronize spammers. Help keep RSG clean!
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – SNIP I think that clubmaking generally is moving in the direction of using MOI to measure swingheaviness, instead of swingweight. We’ve had discussions here about how to measure it (in assembled clubs), with Kenny, Thoms Prufer, and myself among others involved. Tom Wishon Golf is now offering a device to measure MOI. Do the nickel test. See what happens when you add weight to different places and see for yourself how changing weight in different places changes the swingheavy feel of a club. Mike Mike Dalecki GCA Accredited Clubmaker http://clubdoctor.com RSG-Wisconsin 2003 Information: http://dalecki.net/rsgwis2003 RSG Roll Call: http://rec-sport-golf.com/members/?rollcall=daleckim I do not patronize spammers. Help keep RSG clean! Got it! Man, nickels are heavy if you put them in the right place. I guess if I want to increase the swingweight (and the MOI), it’s either lead tape or putting in a heavier shaft. Thanks for the help! Jeff
Here are the ways you can add swingweight (in the sense we were talking about it, i.e., the clubhead feels heavier): 1. Add lead tape. (Easiest to do, but the least aesthetic). 2. Lengthen the shaft (changes the SW, but also changes lie angle and effective flex. Last resort; it’s better to use lead tape). 3. Reshaft w/ a heavier shaft. (Overkill. Pricey, and will likely change the flex characteristics of the clubs. Better to do #4). 4. Disassemble the clubs and add tip weights. (Somewhat of a pain, but relatively cheap if you can do it yourself. But not as easy as #5, if aesthetics are important.) 5. Add weight down the shaft. (Cheapest and usually easiest, next to simply adding lead tape). This is the way I prefer to do it if I can. It won’t work if you have sensicore inserts in the shafts–you’d have to pull the shafts and insert tip weights–but otherwise it’s usually pretty easy to add lead powder or putty down the shaft. You can even do it if you have graphite shafts. You can’t add a ton of weight, but you can add a point or two equivalent. With steel shafts, you can probably change the SW by up to 4 points by doing this, maybe more depending on how much epoxy is forced into the tip of the shaft and how deep the hosel bore is. I prefer to use lead putty (sold at component suppliers) that comes in little 1" segments about the thickness of a pencil. I don’t like fooling w/ lead powder for obvious reasons, including that you have to ram a cork down the shaft to hold it in place. I also like the putty thing because it doesn’t create a shear point at the top of where you have rammed it down, because it’s pliable. You need a ramrod to do this, which can be purchased from a hardware store or farm supply store. They come in 4′ lengths, and you can get the diameters you need. I have, IIRC, a 1/4" ramrod for steel shafts, and a 1/8" ramrod for graphite shafts. You’ll have to make sure you can get the ramrod all the way down into the hosel, so test fit it. A few graphite shafts have very small tip openings, so that can be problematic, but mostly a 1/8" ramrod will fit down there. I roll out the putty to that smaller diameter, insert in the end of the shaft, and tamp it down. Voila! Weight added in the hosel where you can’t see it. I usually use a cork to permanently seat the putty, even in graphite; I’ll just cut a sliver of a cork and tamp that down, too. What I’ll do is experiment w/ lead tape until I figure out the right amount of weight to add, then I’ll add that amount down the shaft. BTW, my own irons are MOI-matched. In my 9-iron, I simply couldn’t get enough weight down the shaft to bring the SW up high enough, so I do have a piece of lead tape on the back. There’s also weight down the shaft. I consider that lead tape a badge of honor. :) Mike Mike Dalecki GCA Accredited Clubmaker http://clubdoctor.com RSG-Wisconsin 2003 Information: http://dalecki.net/rsgwis2003 RSG Roll Call: http://rec-sport-golf.com/members/?rollcall=daleckim I do not patronize spammers. Help keep RSG clean!
SNIP – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -I think that clubmaking generally is moving in the direction of using MOI to measure swingheaviness, instead of swingweight. We’ve had discussions here about how to measure it (in assembled clubs), with Kenny, Thoms Prufer, and myself among others involved. Tom Wishon Golf is now offering a device to measure MOI. Do the nickel test. See what happens when you add weight to different places and see for yourself how changing weight in different places changes the swingheavy feel of a club. Mike Mike Dalecki GCA Accredited Clubmaker http://clubdoctor.com RSG-Wisconsin 2003 Information: http://dalecki.net/rsgwis2003 RSG Roll Call: http://rec-sport-golf.com/members/?rollcall=daleckim I do not patronize spammers. Help keep RSG clean!
Got it! Man, nickels are heavy if you put them in the right place. I guess if I want to increase the swingweight (and the MOI), it’s either lead tape or putting in a heavier shaft. Thanks for the help! Jeff
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – After demoing many drivers this summer, I bought a new Titleist 983K based on a launch monitor fitting with Titleist. I’ve had decent results but have found myself less consistent and somewhat shorter with it that with the demo 983K (same shaft) that I borrow from time to time. I asked a club fitter locally to look at it and he told me that the swingweight was C8 (983K head, 44.5 inch YS-6 stiff shaft, standard Titleist cord grip). I’m wondering whether this could be causing the sense I have that it’s difficult to get a feel for where the head of the driver is during my swing. Can anyone help me with the "normal" swingweight range for drivers?? Would a lighter grip (?Winn swingweight a bit? Are there other methods? Thanks! Jeff Changing grips will only fool a swingweight scale–it won’t change how well you can feel the clubhead. What you need to do is either lengthen the club (problematic) or add weight to the clubhead. Try adding some lead tape to the driver clubhead and see what happens as you bring the swingweight up. Start w/ 2 grams and increase it about 2 grams at a time. A good place to do that is on the heel. Mike PS: Mine’s about D3.
Thanks to both you and jeffc for the advice. I hate to be ignorant about this (in this case, it easy….) but I don’t understand why using a lighter grip is "cheating" or "fooling" the scale. I thought the swingweight issue was one of balance and that, if it mattered what weight the grip was when it went on the club, it would matter if you switched to a lighter one. If you have the patience to straighten me out, I’d appreciate it. Jeff
After demoing many drivers this summer, I bought a new Titleist 983K based on a launch monitor fitting with Titleist. I’ve had decent results but have found myself less consistent and somewhat shorter with it that with the demo 983K (same shaft) that I borrow from time to time. I asked a club fitter locally to look at it and he told me that the swingweight was C8 (983K head, 44.5 inch YS-6 stiff shaft, standard Titleist cord grip). I’m wondering whether this could be causing the sense I have that it’s difficult to get a feel for where the head of the driver is during my swing. Can anyone help me with the "normal" swingweight range for drivers?? Would a lighter grip (?Winn swingweight a bit? Are there other methods? Thanks! Jeff
After demoing many drivers this summer, I bought a new Titleist 983K based on a launch monitor fitting with Titleist. I’ve had decent results but have found myself less consistent and somewhat shorter with it that with the demo 983K (same shaft) that I borrow from time to time. I asked a club fitter locally to look at it and he told me that the swingweight was C8 (983K head, 44.5 inch YS-6 stiff shaft, standard Titleist cord grip). I’m wondering whether this could be causing the sense I have that it’s difficult to get a feel for where the head of the driver is during my swing. Can anyone help me with the "normal" swingweight range for drivers?? Would a lighter grip (?Winn swingweight a bit?
No! I have basically the same club (stock, cut down 1/2"). Certainly with that shaft, and that length, it will play light. Using a lighter grip is a way to "cheat" the swingweight scale. It does *not* help you feel the clubhead. Always change swingweight at the head end, not the butt end. I added several pieces of lead tape to the head for better feel – swingweight is back up around D2.
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – After demoing many drivers this summer, I bought a new Titleist 983K based on a launch monitor fitting with Titleist. I’ve had decent results but have found myself less consistent and somewhat shorter with it that with the demo 983K (same shaft) that I borrow from time to time. I asked a club fitter locally to look at it and he told me that the swingweight was C8 (983K head, 44.5 inch YS-6 stiff shaft, standard Titleist cord grip). I’m wondering whether this could be causing the sense I have that it’s difficult to get a feel for where the head of the driver is during my swing. Can anyone help me with the "normal" swingweight range for drivers?? Would a lighter grip (?Winn swingweight a bit? Are there other methods? Thanks! Jeff
Changing grips will only fool a swingweight scale–it won’t change how well you can feel the clubhead. What you need to do is either lengthen the club (problematic) or add weight to the clubhead. Try adding some lead tape to the driver clubhead and see what happens as you bring the swingweight up. Start w/ 2 grams and increase it about 2 grams at a time. A good place to do that is on the heel. Mike PS: Mine’s about D3. — Mike Dalecki GCA Accredited Clubmaker http://clubdoctor.com RSG-Wisconsin 2003 Information: http://dalecki.net/rsgwis2003 RSG Roll Call: http://rec-sport-golf.com/members/?rollcall=daleckim I do not patronize spammers. Help keep RSG clean!
Another shaft I do like, but are more expensive are the Nippon steel shafts. Much lighter than DG’s, play a little softer, IMHO, too. Any experience with the Harrison stepless steel shaft?
No, sorry David, never used that shaft. Are they lighter than TTDG’s ?? David
Any experience with the Harrison stepless steel shaft?
I have one here somewhere…stiff. I tried it in a five iron….felt heavy, ‘boardy’, and dead! Cannot recommend at all! cheers david
I tested out Rifles vs. Dynamic Gold S300 when I made my current set. While I hit the ball as well w/ the Rifles, the ballflight was a little lower, and I didn’t care for the feel. Felt…harsh to me. For what it is worth, my experience with Rifles has been the same as Mike – they feel "harsh", a distinct lack of "feel" and I believe they are stiffer in the tip end of the shaft, than DG’s, which would result in lower ballflight. Pat Inglis puts Rifles in all the sets he builds for himself – he loves them, and he hits the ball high!!
I hit the ball high too with my irons and didn’t notice any change with the Rifles. Another shaft I do like, but are more expensive are the Nippon steel shafts. Much lighter than DG’s, play a little softer, IMHO, too.
Any experience with the Harrison stepless steel shaft? David Laville, G.S.E.M. The Golfing Machine Authorized Instructor
I was going to send you an email and ask your opinion/experience with Rifle shafts. I have them in my irons and while they are consistent and solid they seem to be a little stiff. I freq’ed the set with the 5 iron at 312cpm’s. According to the Dynacraft charts this is between a R300 and S300 yet the shafts feel very stiff. Have you experienced this with the Rifle’s? I tested out Rifles vs. Dynamic Gold S300 when I made my current set. While I hit the ball as well w/ the Rifles, the ballflight was a little lower, and I didn’t care for the feel. Felt…harsh to me.
Same thing here. They don’t affect my play one bit but they do feel stiff and I can’t feel a loading of the shaft. I’m a little uncertain what to say about Rifles. When I was testing I bought both a 5.5 and a 5.0 to compare. Imagine my surprise when both spec’d out exactly the same on my frequency meter. I looked into it, called the company for advice, but in the end, they were the same shaft.
Now that you mention this I recall you posting about this experience. I used the Rifle blanks for Diamondtour Golf which allowed me to cut the shafts to the frequencies I wanted. And I can’t honestly tell you which one I had, the 5.5 or the 5.0. I suspect the 5.5, simply because the performance was similar to the DG S300s. It may have been that I’d have liked them better if I’d hit a 5.0. The conventional wisdom is that they play a little stiffer than you’d think.
Exactly my experience the first time I hit them at the range. The ball was flying high and true and I remember saying to myself "these feel kind of stiff for the flex I built them". At some point, I’ll revisit them and see if my opinion has changed. My swing is better now, so that might impact how I view the shafts.
Have your tried the new Harrison stepless steel shafts? David Laville, G.S.E.M. The Golfing Machine Authorized Instructor
Graffaloy Blue in my SMT driver. Aldila Excelerator in 3,5, & 7 woods.Same in my 4 & 5 irons. TT TX-90 in th rest. I hit the GB very straight and long. The Aldila’s are in Gworks Pro Lannch fw woods which I also seem to hit very straight and long. Have played dg’d & rifles’s in previous sets. Wanted to try the lighter TX-90’s and like them as well. They have a little better feel than the others. Rick
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – kind of a servey here. I was wondering what everyones favorite shaft might be and why?
kind of a servey here. I was wondering what everyones favorite shaft might be and why?
Irons: TT DG S300 steel shafts. Most non-DG iron shafts are either too light or they’re so tip-flexible it’s impossible to keep the ball down. Fairway woods: TT Dynalite or similar lightweight steel shafts (currently Ping ZZ Lite). Fairway woods are longer and designed for distance, so it’s ok to sacrifice a little accuracy. Driver: Decent quality graphite (currently 83g EI-70 S at 45"). Drivers are getting too long even for lightweight steel, but graphite is less consistent and you need to ensure that it’s going to be stable and have the desired flex in the orientation it’s installed in. I’ve used this combination for the last 10-12 years, though I’ve only cottoned onto the best practices for graphite since I started lurking on rsg. —
i only have one shaft…it’s definitely my fave. but, uh, this IS a GOLF newsgroup, right? jk
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – kind of a servey here. I was wondering what everyones favorite shaft might be and why?
It is good to see that someone has tried the "Harmon / UST brand of graphite shafts. Is there truly a "difference" in the performance (for the better) – between the Harmon shaft, and previous shafts you have used? Driver: I haven’t tried more than a couple of shafts, but my newest experiment does feel great: Harmon Tour Design CB series. Cheers, -M-
Actually – yes. There is a huge difference between the shafts I use, HTD CBR and Graphite Design YS-7 R-flex. They are completely different shafts, designed for completely different swings. The YS-7 is a stiff-tip "hitter shaft" and the HTD CBR is designed for a long smooth tempo swing with a softer tip and thus softer feel. So the performance difference is not totally a difference in the shaft performance – it is more about the performance difference of a successful shaft fit. Both shafts are fine, and I can utilise both their attributes depending on the day and the course I play. My driver specs are: SMT Nemesis ten + HTD CBR, 45 1/4in, C8 Dynacraft DFS Ti 400cc 10deg + GD YS-7 R-flex, 44 1/4 in, C8 Cheers, -M-
It is good to see that someone has tried the "Harmon / UST brand of graphite shafts. Is there truly a "difference" in the performance (for the better) – between the Harmon shaft, and previous shafts you have used? Driver: I haven’t tried more than a couple of shafts, but my newest experiment does feel great: Harmon Tour Design CB series. Cheers, -M-
m h o
I am feeling good about the way I use my clubs right now, but generally don’t use my driver(s). I would like to learn to use my driver(s) well, and was planning on working hard on this over the winter. But I’m thinking this may be an ego thing. Today I played 9 holes twice – once teeing off with either of my two newest drivers, and once with my 3W. My 3W was lousy today, short and slicing. In fact it was virtually identical to my drivers. Right now, using a driver gives similar performance to when my 3W is messed up. When I started playing, my driver was better than my 3W, but that hasn’t been true the last couple of years. My 5W hits farther off the tee than my drivers do, but my Snake Eyes 22