Question:
While it’s certainly valuable to know the characteristics of the club, I’ve often wondered what fraction of bad shots are caused by hitting off the sweetspot versus making contact with the clubhead travelling in the wrong direction. Based on my personal experience and observation of lots of less than perfect golfers I’d guess that bad swings are far more likely to be the source of trouble than simply hitting the wrong part of the clubface. Can hitting the sweetspot really save you from a bad shot when that driver makes contact on a sharp descending outside-in trajectory?
Absolutely not. I kind of doubt it. Perhaps we hear so much about clubhead design because that’s about all the equipment manufacturers can do for us, but my guess is most of us would improve far more by figuring out how to make square contact every time than by changing tee height or getting a new driver. Just a thought.
They can tweak certain things, like closing the club face, for example. But I think you’re right. Still, I’d like to hit the sweetspot, even if there are worse things that can go wrong. Ironically, the new longer clubs, in an attempt to give us more distance, make it harder to hit the sweetspot. Maybe this is why they work so hard to expand it? 
Response:
Had wondered why I’d hit the Deep Red so well…..
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – David reminded of the Golf Digest article and I had meant to post some info. October issue, Driver "Hot Spots". I found it interesting. You really need to see and read it, but here are some conclusions (partly my opinion). – Mizuno T-Zoid, small/medium, high and slightly toe – Adams Tight Lies ST, medium, high and slightly heel – Callaway Big Bertha Hawk Ey VFT, medium, slightly high – Cleveland Quadpro Ti, medium, high – Taylor Made 320, medium/large, about center, and wide – Ping TiSI, large, high, slightly toe – Wilson Deep Red, large, about center, very wide, extends from center well out toward toe. If you hit low on the club face, none of these drivers will help you. If you consistently hit quite high, the Cleveland and Ping will help most. If you hit slightly high, you should hit the sweet spot on all drivers. If you often hit toward the heel, the Adams will help most. If you often hit toward the toe, the Wilson will help most. If you play the Yonex, you better hit it on the screws every time There are even places *within* the white dots where you’ll lose 10 yards or more. Same with the Orlimar, but hit a bit high.
Response:
It makes sense if you think about maximizing deflection. Thin around the edges allows the face to flex more there, making the whole face depress as a solid unit. In other words, the face depresses with a motion similar to a speaker cone than a dent. Dave – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Actually, I believe the face on these clubs is thinnest towards the edges and thicker in the middle. Sounds totally backwards and counter-intuitive to me too, but I’m pretty sure that’s the case. At least the Callaway web site describes it that way. Rob Regarding the Taylor and other COR springface clubs. It would make sense that the sweetspot on such a club would be dead center, or wherever the face is thinnest and the rebound effect is greatest. I also believe that the sweetspot on such a club is limited to the area of the thinnest part of the face, which might be smaller than the sweetspot on a non-springface club. A different measure of the foregiveness of the club is the distance and accuracy of shots hit outside the sweet spot.
Response:
Actually, I believe the face on these clubs is thinnest towards the edges and thicker in the middle. Sounds totally backwards and counter-intuitive to me too, but I’m pretty sure that’s the case. At least the Callaway web site describes it that way. Rob – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Regarding the Taylor and other COR springface clubs. It would make sense that the sweetspot on such a club would be dead center, or wherever the face is thinnest and the rebound effect is greatest. I also believe that the sweetspot on such a club is limited to the area of the thinnest part of the face, which might be smaller than the sweetspot on a non-springface club. A different measure of the foregiveness of the club is the distance and accuracy of shots hit outside the sweet spot.
Response:
While it’s certainly valuable to know the characteristics of the club, I’ve often wondered what fraction of bad shots are caused by hitting off the sweetspot versus making contact with the clubhead travelling in the wrong direction. Based on my personal experience and observation of lots of less than perfect golfers I’d guess that bad swings are far more likely to be the source of trouble than simply hitting the wrong part of the clubface. Can hitting the sweetspot really save you from a bad shot when that driver makes contact on a sharp descending outside-in trajectory? I kind of doubt it. Perhaps we hear so much about clubhead design because that’s about all the equipment manufacturers can do for us, but my guess is most of us would improve far more by figuring out how to make square contact every time than by changing tee height or getting a new driver. Just a thought. —
Response:
I guess I disagree with this–not totally, since I am a *very* mechanically oriented person–but I think impact is a *very* visual thing. Good eye-hand coordination is paramount to good contact. Eye-hand is visual. You can eliminate a lot of mechanical errors through good setup and a good swing, which are important, but with all the joints involved during the swing movemment, miniscule incorrect movements will move the sweet spot off center at impact. If it was all mechanical, *everybody* could hit *every* shot long and straight. And of course, we all know *that’s* not true! Good mechanic’s and lot’s and lot’s and lot’s of practice to improve eye-hand coordination will improve center hits. Mark
Well said, Mark. I didn’t mean to imply hand/eye coordination isn’t supremely important. But that even with it (we all have SOME of it) in high degree it is also necessary to use common sense in setup and to eliminate forces which would deflect our intended orbit. THE most common mishit shot is on the toe. Arms too far from body, fighting gravity and downforce and losing. Even in otherwise "good athletes". GH – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – However, as I just posted, the ability to hit that spot is not a visual thing nearly as much as it is by virtue of understanding how to NOT apply forces to the club that make its orbit fly above or below the ball impact point, AND how to measure left shoulder to ground before you swing and to maintain its height during your swing so that your depth control is correct for c/g impact.
Response:
I guess I disagree with this–not totally, since I am a *very* mechanically oriented person–but I think impact is a *very* visual thing. Good eye-hand coordination is paramount to good contact. Eye-hand is visual. You can eliminate a lot of mechanical errors through good setup and a good swing, which are important, but with all the joints involved during the swing movemment, miniscule incorrect movements will move the sweet spot off center at impact. If it was all mechanical, *everybody* could hit *every* shot long and straight. And of course, we all know *that’s* not true! Good mechanic’s and lot’s and lot’s and lot’s of practice to improve eye-hand coordination will improve center hits. Mark – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – However, as I just posted, the ability to hit that spot is not a visual thing nearly as much as it is by virtue of understanding how to NOT apply forces to the club that make its orbit fly above or below the ball impact point, AND how to measure left shoulder to ground before you swing and to maintain its height during your swing so that your depth control is correct for c/g impact.
Response:
Regarding the Taylor and other COR springface clubs. It would make sense that the sweetspot on such a club would be dead center, or wherever the face is thinnest and the rebound effect is greatest. I also believe that the sweetspot on such a club is limited to the area of the thinnest part of the face, which might be smaller than the sweetspot on a non-springface club. A different measure of the foregiveness of the club is the distance and accuracy of shots hit outside the sweet spot.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – David reminded of the Golf Digest article and I had meant to post some info. October issue, Driver "Hot Spots". I found it interesting. You really need to see and read it, but here are some conclusions (partly my opinion). Disclaimer: technically a sweet spot is a geometric point and doesn’t have any size. I’m using the commonly used meaning – a sizeable area within which you won’t lose distance or accuracy, given some arbitrarily small leeway (say, 3 yards of distance, or 5 feet off target.) In general, sweet spots are *high* on the club face. That is, the *center* of the sweet spot is high. On most clubs, but not all, the exact center of the club face was in the sweet spot (near the bottom of it). So, tee those balls high! (How high do you think the driver will be off the ground at impact? If you tee the ball so the top of the club meets the equator of the ball, then on some of these clubs you only have 1/2-3/4" between the bottom of the club and the ground at impact. If you want more room, then tee the ball higher.) – Taylor Made Metal Wood circa 1985 (145cc) – tiny sweet spot, high center – Yonex V-mass 350 – tiny sweet spot, very slightly high/toe – Orlimar hipTi – tiny, high center – Titleist 975D – small, slightly high center – Mizuno T-Zoid, small/medium, high and slightly toe – Adams Tight Lies ST, medium, high and slightly heel – Callaway Big Bertha Hawk Ey VFT, medium, slightly high – Cleveland Quadpro Ti, medium, high – Taylor Made 320, medium/large, about center, and wide – Ping TiSI, large, high, slightly toe – Wilson Deep Red, large, about center, very wide, extends from center well out toward toe. If you hit low on the club face, none of these drivers will help you. If you consistently hit quite high, the Cleveland and Ping will help most. If you hit slightly high, you should hit the sweet spot on all drivers. If you often hit toward the heel, the Adams will help most. If you often hit toward the toe, the Wilson will help most. If you play the Yonex, you better hit it on the screws every time There are even places *within* the white dots where you’ll lose 10 yards or more. Same with the Orlimar, but hit a bit high.
Response:
Another point about sweetspots on drivers. It can be found empirically by using impact tape or chalk. On pure impact shots take note of the center point of the ball imprint and record the point on a drawing somewhere for each shot that you hit with the least feedback of shock and the best most solid sense of ball striking purity. After four or five good shots the place on the club you need to strive to hit will become evident and clear in a small spot probably no bigger than 1/4 inch. However, as I just posted, the ability to hit that spot is not a visual thing nearly as much as it is by virtue of understanding how to NOT apply forces to the club that make its orbit fly above or below the ball impact point, AND how to measure left shoulder to ground before you swing and to maintain its height during your swing so that your depth control is correct for c/g impact. Feedback on depth of impact with chalk is a regular part of any serious golfer’s practice schedule. I have a bottle in my bag. Lasts for years. George
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – David reminded of the Golf Digest article and I had meant to post some info. October issue, Driver "Hot Spots". I found it interesting. You really need to see and read it, but here are some conclusions (partly my opinion). Disclaimer: technically a sweet spot is a geometric point and doesn’t have any size. I’m using the commonly used meaning – a sizeable area within which you won’t lose distance or accuracy, given some arbitrarily small leeway (say, 3 yards of distance, or 5 feet off target.) In general, sweet spots are *high* on the club face. That is, the *center* of the sweet spot is high. On most clubs, but not all, the exact center of the club face was in the sweet spot (near the bottom of it). So, tee those balls high! (How high do you think the driver will be off the ground at impact? If you tee the ball so the top of the club meets the equator of the ball, then on some of these clubs you only have 1/2-3/4" between the bottom of the club and the ground at impact. If you want more room, then tee the ball higher.) – Taylor Made Metal Wood circa 1985 (145cc) – tiny sweet spot, high center – Yonex V-mass 350 – tiny sweet spot, very slightly high/toe – Orlimar hipTi – tiny, high center – Titleist 975D – small, slightly high center – Mizuno T-Zoid, small/medium, high and slightly toe – Adams Tight Lies ST, medium, high and slightly heel – Callaway Big Bertha Hawk Ey VFT, medium, slightly high – Cleveland Quadpro Ti, medium, high – Taylor Made 320, medium/large, about center, and wide – Ping TiSI, large, high, slightly toe – Wilson Deep Red, large, about center, very wide, extends from center well out toward toe. If you hit low on the club face, none of these drivers will help you. If you consistently hit quite high, the Cleveland and Ping will help most. If you hit slightly high, you should hit the sweet spot on all drivers. If you often hit toward the heel, the Adams will help most. If you often hit toward the toe, the Wilson will help most. If you play the Yonex, you better hit it on the screws every time There are even places *within* the white dots where you’ll lose 10 yards or more. Same with the Orlimar, but hit a bit high.
Response:
The article caught my attention. I liked the size of the Ping TiSi sweet spot and after trying one out for a week put my 975 D in my closet. It is very forgiving of my swing. I am wondering how the ET version that is being introduced for 2002 will compare? Ed
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – David reminded of the Golf Digest article and I had meant to post some info. October issue, Driver "Hot Spots". I found it interesting. You really need to see and read it, but here are some conclusions (partly my opinion). Disclaimer: technically a sweet spot is a geometric point and doesn’t have any size. I’m using the commonly used meaning – a sizeable area within which you won’t lose distance or accuracy, given some arbitrarily small leeway (say, 3 yards of distance, or 5 feet off target.) In general, sweet spots are *high* on the club face. That is, the *center* of the sweet spot is high. On most clubs, but not all, the exact center of the club face was in the sweet spot (near the bottom of it). So, tee those balls high! (How high do you think the driver will be off the ground at impact? If you tee the ball so the top of the club meets the equator of the ball, then on some of these clubs you only have 1/2-3/4" between the bottom of the club and the ground at impact. If you want more room, then tee the ball higher.) – Taylor Made Metal Wood circa 1985 (145cc) – tiny sweet spot, high center – Yonex V-mass 350 – tiny sweet spot, very slightly high/toe – Orlimar hipTi – tiny, high center – Titleist 975D – small, slightly high center – Mizuno T-Zoid, small/medium, high and slightly toe – Adams Tight Lies ST, medium, high and slightly heel – Callaway Big Bertha Hawk Ey VFT, medium, slightly high – Cleveland Quadpro Ti, medium, high – Taylor Made 320, medium/large, about center, and wide – Ping TiSI, large, high, slightly toe – Wilson Deep Red, large, about center, very wide, extends from center well out toward toe. If you hit low on the club face, none of these drivers will help you. If you consistently hit quite high, the Cleveland and Ping will help most. If you hit slightly high, you should hit the sweet spot on all drivers. If you often hit toward the heel, the Adams will help most. If you often hit toward the toe, the Wilson will help most. If you play the Yonex, you better hit it on the screws every time There are even places *within* the white dots where you’ll lose 10 yards or more. Same with the Orlimar, but hit a bit high.
Response:
David reminded of the Golf Digest article and I had meant to post some info. October issue, Driver "Hot Spots". I found it interesting. You really need to see and read it, but here are some conclusions (partly my opinion). Disclaimer: technically a sweet spot is a geometric point and doesn’t have any size. I’m using the commonly used meaning – a sizeable area within which you won’t lose distance or accuracy, given some arbitrarily small leeway (say, 3 yards of distance, or 5 feet off target.) In general, sweet spots are *high* on the club face. That is, the *center* of the sweet spot is high. On most clubs, but not all, the exact center of the club face was in the sweet spot (near the bottom of it). So, tee those balls high! (How high do you think the driver will be off the ground at impact? If you tee the ball so the top of the club meets the equator of the ball, then on some of these clubs you only have 1/2-3/4" between the bottom of the club and the ground at impact. If you want more room, then tee the ball higher.) – Taylor Made Metal Wood circa 1985 (145cc) – tiny sweet spot, high center – Yonex V-mass 350 – tiny sweet spot, very slightly high/toe – Orlimar hipTi – tiny, high center – Titleist 975D – small, slightly high center – Mizuno T-Zoid, small/medium, high and slightly toe – Adams Tight Lies ST, medium, high and slightly heel – Callaway Big Bertha Hawk Ey VFT, medium, slightly high – Cleveland Quadpro Ti, medium, high – Taylor Made 320, medium/large, about center, and wide – Ping TiSI, large, high, slightly toe – Wilson Deep Red, large, about center, very wide, extends from center well out toward toe. If you hit low on the club face, none of these drivers will help you. If you consistently hit quite high, the Cleveland and Ping will help most. If you hit slightly high, you should hit the sweet spot on all drivers. If you often hit toward the heel, the Adams will help most. If you often hit toward the toe, the Wilson will help most. If you play the Yonex, you better hit it on the screws every time There are even places *within* the white dots where you’ll lose 10 yards or more. Same with the Orlimar, but hit a bit high.