Question:
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – } } } } To get a new shaft into this head, what’s the best way to proceed? } } } }If it is a ‘fatshaft’ the ONLY way is to send it back to Wilson! Thanks to all…however, I feel I wasn’t sufficiently clear in my original description of the problem. I think the club is about 8 years old, hence, out of warranty for sure. It is a TT steel shaft, ( I have the shaft with grip also )…and it is broken off from the head right at the hosel…the ferrule is still on the main part of the shaft. In other words…it looks like a brand new head, except that there’s about an inch and a half of steel shaft still stuck in the hosel. There’s nothing to grab with pliers. It looks like I’ll have to drill it out. Do I need a special drill for this operation? Pete
Pete, if it’s not pinned (doubtful if it’s only 8 years old), you should be able to break the epoxy bond with heat as per the usual way. Then you should be able to take a "shaft removal tool" such as this from Golfsmith: http://www.golfworks.com/item_disp.asp?pn=FESRI and back it out of there. Oh, you don’t have the Golfsmith tool? You can also use a screw-removal tool to do it. Your hardware store almost certainly sells them. I have a set I got–cheap–from someplace along the line, $1.99 for five different sizes. Drilling it out is going to be the other alternative. The hard part is getting the clubhead secured. If you have broken the epoxy bond, you may be able to get a drill bit to bite within the shaft, and spin it out that way. One of these approaches should work for you, Pete. Just make sure you get the epoxy bond broken first with heat. Mike — Mike Dalecki RSG-Wisconsin 2002 Info http://dalecki.net/rsgwis2002 I do not patronize spammers. Help keep RSG clean! Web Site: http://www.dalecki.net/clubdoctor/ RSG Roll Call: http://rec-sport-golf.com/members/?rollcall=daleckim
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}Pete, if it’s not pinned (doubtful if it’s only 8 years old), you should }be able to break the epoxy bond with heat as per the usual way. Then }you should be able to take a "shaft removal tool" such as this from }Golfsmith: } }http://www.golfworks.com/item_disp.asp?pn=FESRI } }and back it out of there. Oh, you don’t have the Golfsmith tool? You }can also use a screw-removal tool to do it. Your hardware store almost }certainly sells them. I have a set I got–cheap–from someplace along }the line, $1.99 for five different sizes.
Well, here’s a question for you. Does the epoxy re-bond after it’s been heated up enough to break the bond the first time? Not having either the Golfsmith or a generic screw-removal tool, and blustering along with feigned bravado and derring-do I mounted the head in a vise that I can set onto my drill press table, then proceeded to drill with a 11/32 bit. Had almost no effect. The drill bit penetrated about a sixteenth of an inch, then just got hotter and hotter, till it was actually glowing red, without getting any deeper. Maybe I needed a carbide drill? I’m a pretty good wood-worker, but this metal stuff is just foreign to me. There any houses for sale on your block? I think I need constant supervision. <grin
Response:
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – }Pete, if it’s not pinned (doubtful if it’s only 8 years old), you should }be able to break the epoxy bond with heat as per the usual way. Then }you should be able to take a "shaft removal tool" such as this from }Golfsmith: } }http://www.golfworks.com/item_disp.asp?pn=FESRI } }and back it out of there. Oh, you don’t have the Golfsmith tool? You }can also use a screw-removal tool to do it. Your hardware store almost }certainly sells them. I have a set I got–cheap–from someplace along }the line, $1.99 for five different sizes. Well, here’s a question for you. Does the epoxy re-bond after it’s been heated up enough to break the bond the first time? Not having either the Golfsmith or a generic screw-removal tool, and blustering along with feigned bravado and derring-do I mounted the head in a vise that I can set onto my drill press table, then proceeded to drill with a 11/32 bit. Had almost no effect. The drill bit penetrated about a sixteenth of an inch, then just got hotter and hotter, till it was actually glowing red, without getting any deeper. Maybe I needed a carbide drill? I’m a pretty good wood-worker, but this metal stuff is just foreign to me. There any houses for sale on your block? I think I need constant supervision. <grin
Epoxy begins to break down about 250 degrees F. One way to be sure it’s broken down is wait for a little puff of smoke. The epoxy turns to a kind of powder when it’s broken down like that, and doesn’t re-bond. [Note to others, I know you know this Pete: You *cannot* do that with graphite shafts, not if you want to save the shaft--this "puff of smoke" signal is for steel]. How much heat did you apply, for how long? Did you get a puff of smoke? The only other thing I can think of here is if you happen to have clubs w/ tapered hosels. Tapered hosels (and the tapered shafts that go in them) are a holdover from the days when epoxy wasn’t what it is now. Back then, you hammered the shaft into the hosel tightly; the taper caused it to seat firmly, and then you’d pin it to hold it there. A few irons–Mizuno MP-14 for instance–still use tapered shafts, though there’s no real reason to do so. So if you by chance have such a shaft, drilling it out isn’t going to work, at least not with the tools you have. There are drill bits to drill tapers, but now we’re getting to a *very* dark corner of the dark side. BTW, when you were drilling, did you use a normal steel bit or something like a cobalt bit? Mike — Mike Dalecki RSG-Wisconsin 2002 Info http://dalecki.net/rsgwis2002 I do not patronize spammers. Help keep RSG clean! Web Site: http://www.dalecki.net/clubdoctor/ RSG Roll Call: http://rec-sport-golf.com/members/?rollcall=daleckim
Response:
}Epoxy begins to break down about 250 degrees F. One way to be sure it’s }broken down is wait for a little puff of smoke. The epoxy turns to a }kind of powder when it’s broken down like that, and doesn’t re-bond. }[Note to others, I know you know this Pete: You *cannot* do that with }graphite shafts, not if you want to save the shaft--this "puff of smoke" }signal is for steel].
Yes, I knew about the little puff of smoke….I’ve seen it before when extracting some other steel shafts successfully. } }How much heat did you apply, for how long? Did you get a puff of smoke?
I usually use my trusty Milwaukee (no association with the company) heat gun which gets pretty darned hot. I’ve removed several steel shafts without problems before. No, I didn’t notice a puff of smoke this time. } }The only other thing I can think of here is if you happen to have clubs }w/ tapered hosels. } }Tapered hosels (and the tapered shafts that go in them) are a holdover }from the days when epoxy wasn’t what it is now. Back then, you hammered }the shaft into the hosel tightly; the taper caused it to seat firmly, }and then you’d pin it to hold it there.
I’ve inspected the hosel very closely…and am confident there are no pins. I’ve seen what they look like on other older heads. } }A few irons–Mizuno MP-14 for instance–still use tapered shafts, though }there’s no real reason to do so. So if you by chance have such a shaft, }drilling it out isn’t going to work, at least not with the tools you }have. There are drill bits to drill tapers, but now we’re getting to a }*very* dark corner of the dark side. } }BTW, when you were drilling, did you use a normal steel bit or something }like a cobalt bit?
Just a normal steel bit…and like I said…it just spun without really penetrating, until it was actually glowing red hot. The bit, not the hosel. I’d only gotten down just past the coned part before giving up.
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I have a friend who’s 6 iron head has the shaft broken off right at the hosel. It’s a Wilson Staff iron…doesn’t look like it is pinned. To get a new shaft into this head, what’s the best way to proceed? Just so you know….it’s pretty dark in this spot of the dark side. maybe some of you longer-lived denizens can throw a little light this way? Thanks in advance Pete—
Response:
If it’s a steel shaft, and there is any shaft still protruding – he can just heat the hosel with a flame to break down the epoxy and grab the protruding part with pliers to pull it out. If it’s graphite, I’m not entirely sure, but (and somebody "call me out on this if it’s wrong) he may have to carefully drill out the remainder of the shaft from the hosel. Once the old shaft is cleared out of the hosel, installing a new shaft is pretty simple. "Scuff" the hosel-end of the new shaft with some fine grit sandpaper (400g should work fine) and dope it up with golf-club epoxy. Insert shaft into hosel to apply epoxy to the inards of the hosel and remove to let "air" for a minute or so, then insert and align. Let it sit for a day to cure, apply grip of choice and – voila’ – done! Good luck, Mark
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have a friend who’s 6 iron head has the shaft broken off right at the hosel. It’s a Wilson Staff iron…doesn’t look like it is pinned. To get a new shaft into this head, what’s the best way to proceed? Just so you know….it’s pretty dark in this spot of the dark side. maybe some of you longer-lived denizens can throw a little light this way? Thanks in advance Pete—
Response:
I have a friend who’s 6 iron head has the shaft broken off right at the hosel. It’s a Wilson Staff iron…doesn’t look like it is pinned. To get a new shaft into this head, what’s the best way to proceed?
You didn’t mention the age of the club. Unless it’s an ancient one, the first step would be to contact Wilson and see if it’s still in warranty. If it is, let them do the work. Eliyahu
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To get a new shaft into this head, what’s the best way to proceed?
If it is a ‘fatshaft’ the ONLY way is to send it back to Wilson! cheers david
Response:
} } } } To get a new shaft into this head, what’s the best way to proceed? } } } }If it is a ‘fatshaft’ the ONLY way is to send it back to Wilson!
Thanks to all…however, I feel I wasn’t sufficiently clear in my original description of the problem. I think the club is about 8 years old, hence, out of warranty for sure. It is a TT steel shaft, ( I have the shaft with grip also )…and it is broken off from the head right at the hosel…the ferrule is still on the main part of the shaft. In other words…it looks like a brand new head, except that there’s about an inch and a half of steel shaft still stuck in the hosel. There’s nothing to grab with pliers. It looks like I’ll have to drill it out. Do I need a special drill for this operation? Pete
Response:
I’ll see if I can help…
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I thought that someone else would reply to this post and because I don’t actually repair clubs I was very vague. The Titleist 975D and J have bore through, and so do most of the Callaway series drivers. "Bore through" is where the shaft is bored through the club and then connected on the sole of the club. If this 3W as a hosel you used be okay. But since I don’t repair clubs, I just know some things about them, I would suggest making another post like: "Repair Kennex Perform 3W, Need Help". This is just my suggestion though. Ok next dumb question. How do I know if it is a bore through and what is so special about that?
Look at the sole of the club. If it’s a bore-through head, you’ll see a plugged hole where the end of the shaft is. Bore-through heads simply have the hosel bored all the way through the head – instead of part way through. Look at most any Callaway head (maybe *any* of them, I’m not sure) and you’ll see what I’m talking about. If there is no hole in the sole where the end of the shaft would be, it is not a bore-through head. What’s special about them? Depends on who you talk to. Some say it makes the club feel more stable, since more of the shaft tip is epoxied to the head. Others say it makes no difference – it’s not as if the tip twists in the hosel anyway. I’m of the latter school of thought. The club is a kennex performer fm 3w. Is this a bord through?
Don’t know, but the info above should tell you. And why do I have to be careful? Thanks again
The only extra *care* you have to take is in tipping the shaft. Since the shaft extends further through the head, you have to reduce the amount of tip trip accordingly, or the club will play much stiffer than you intend. In addition, most graphite shafts now have stiffened tips to prevent breakage at the hosel. If this stiffened area is completely within the clubhead, it doesn’t do any good. Many shafts are now available that are designed for bore-through heads. Unless you have your heart set on another shaft, you might consider one of those. Unless, of course, your clubhead is *not* a bore-through model…. 
— Joe Cartpath – www.joecartpath.com Basic Golf Clubmaking & Memphis Area Golf Course Guide and….The Memphis MG Page…
Response:
Ok next dumb question. How do I know if it is a bore through and what is so special about that? The club is a kennex performer fm 3w. Is this a bord through? And why do I have to be careful? Thanks again
Response:
I thought that someone else would reply to this post and because I don’t actually repair clubs I was very vague. The Titleist 975D and J have bore through, and so do most of the Callaway series drivers. "Bore through" is where the shaft is bored through the club and then connected on the sole of the club. If this 3W as a hosel you used be okay. But since I don’t repair clubs, I just know some things about them, I would suggest making another post like: "Repair Kennex Perform 3W, Need Help". This is just my suggestion though.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Ok next dumb question. How do I know if it is a bore through and what is so special about that? The club is a kennex performer fm 3w. Is this a bord through? And why do I have to be careful? Thanks again
Response:
If it is bore through, I would be careful. Look on the web.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – My friend broke his graphite shaft so I offered to repair the 3 wood for him. I cut off the ferrule and I heated up the hea dand removed the shaft. I ordered a new graphite shaft, new grip and some ferrules. What if anything to I have to do to prep the head or shaft? Let me see if I got this correct. I will slide the ferrule up the shaft, put epoxy into the head push in the shaft, remove excess epoxy and then slide the ferrule down. Is this correct? I am by no means a club builder but this repair didn’t seem like rocket science to me. Thanks for your help
Response:
My friend broke his graphite shaft so I offered to repair the 3 wood for him. I cut off the ferrule and I heated up the hea dand removed the shaft. I ordered a new graphite shaft, new grip and some ferrules. What if anything to I have to do to prep the head or shaft? Let me see if I got this correct. I will slide the ferrule up the shaft, put epoxy into the head push in the shaft, remove excess epoxy and then slide the ferrule down. Is this correct? I am by no means a club builder but this repair didn’t seem like rocket science to me. Thanks for your help