Question:
In case anyone cares, I’m going with the Graffaloy Prolite. It has lower torque compared to the BBB lite shaft I had in it (4.5 to 6.5), and the clubmaker thats doing it for me thinks it will hold up fine. Apparently the steel shaft Callaway BB is one of the clubs that this shaft is recommended for. I just hope I can cream it the way I was creaming it before! Chris – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Okay, just my particular game of golf. Yesterday, at approximately 6:30 pm, the head of my Callaway Warbird 3+ wood snapped off the shaft after striking a magnificent ball at the driving range. The head flew out into the range, coming to a rest about 75 yards away. The nice man in the clubhouse went out in the ball picker-upper to get it for me. I plan on resurrecting it. This club was originally a steel shaft (M- 10) that I had reshafted about a year ago with a BBB lite shaft. I’m planning on trying a Graffaloy Prolite in it now – am I just setting myself up for disaster again? I’d hate to bust this shaft since it’s so expensive – can any clubmakers out there tell me if the shaft can handle a Warbird 3+ head? Chris Before you buy.
Before you buy.
Response:
Personally I don’t see how you could get so much epoxy into the tip of a graphite shaft that you could fill up 1/4" of it solid, let alone enough to get anywhere near the hosel! -joseph
My suggestion in the first place, was that the job should be done with a modicum of care, so that you don’t get epoxy into the center of the shaft. If, however, you were to fill the opening in the head with epoxy, ( … I know, no one who had ever built a club before would do that, but someone who hadn’t might … ) and push a "thinned down" shaft ( …as the original poster had mentioned he was considering …. ) into the hosel, you would probably get a fair amount of epoxy into the shaft. I’m sure the volume of the hosel is sufficient to hold enough epoxy to force the stuff to a pretty good height in that tiny inner diameter of the shaft. Again, if you’re careful when shafting, that won’t happen. If you’re not it might. That was my whole point! May your next round be your best round. Dave Holo RSG Roll Call: http://u1.netgate.net/~kirby34/rsg/holod.htm
Response:
"Joseph N. Hall wrote Personally I don’t see how you could get so much epoxy into the tip of a graphite shaft that you could fill up 1/4" of it solid, let alone enough to get anywhere near the hosel!
I’m putting new heads on a set of shafts (steel) right now that a fella built for himself…They ALL have about 1/2" of epoxy up the tube… I’m just going to leave it…But keep in mind how small the hole in the head end of a grahite stick is…it doesn’t take much to fill such a small void. My suggestion in the first place, was that the job should be done with a modicum of care, so that you don’t get epoxy into the center of the shaft.
RIGHT! I just pulled my driver shaft to experiment with some swingweight changes…(it’s got a vibe insert) it had only a thin film across the shafts void…I use a toothpick to coat the hosel walls before inserting a shaft…it doesn’t take much. If, however, you were to fill the opening in the head with epoxy, ( … I know, no one who had ever built a club before would do that, but someone who hadn’t might … )
I think that’s EXACTLY what happened in the case of the steel shafts I’m working on right now… ! ]]]Z[[[
Response:
Personally I don't see how you could get so much epoxy into the tip of a graphite shaft that you could fill up 1/4" of it solid, let alone enough to get anywhere near the hosel! My 6 iron with a graphite shaft broke off at the hosel recently and there was glue inside the shaft up past the hosel.
That's a lot of epoxy. I just use enough to make sure the shaft and inside of the hosel are (liberally) coated. -joseph
Response:
. Personally I don't see how you could get so much epoxy into the tip of a graphite shaft that you could fill up 1/4" of it solid, let alone enough to get anywhere near the hosel! -joseph
My 6 iron with a graphite shaft broke off at the hosel recently and there was glue inside the shaft up past the hosel. Tim
Response:
The Prolite is a very good shaft. I would recommend the 35 instead of the 45 though. You might also want to consider the EI-70 High Impact, but it does have a higher kickpoint than the Prolite. Also, make sure the hosel is deburred and properly coned before installing a new shaft, especially graphite. - Hide quoted text -- Show quoted text - Okay, just my particular game of golf. Yesterday, at approximately 6:30 pm, the head of my Callaway Warbird 3+ wood snapped off the shaft after striking a magnificent ball at the driving range. The head flew out into the range, coming to a rest about 75 yards away. The nice man in the clubhouse went out in the ball picker-upper to get it for me. I plan on resurrecting it. This club was originally a steel shaft (M- 10) that I had reshafted about a year ago with a BBB lite shaft. I'm planning on trying a Graffaloy Prolite in it now - am I just setting myself up for disaster again? I'd hate to bust this shaft since it's so expensive - can any clubmakers out there tell me if the shaft can handle a Warbird 3+ head? Chris Before you buy.
-- Dan Driscoll Current USGA Handicap Index - 16.1 RSG Roll Call http://u1.netgate.net/~kirby34/rsg/driscolld.htm Keep Usenet Clean, Trash a Spammer!
Response:
As I said, I can't verify it, but that's what I was told in Golfsmith's clubmaking class, and I've seen it in articles. Doesn't sound right to me either, but that's what I've been told. You were told right...I'm not sure Joe understands you tho... When epoxy fills up the inside of the shaft it effectively makes the area it fills a SOLID rather than a HOLLOW shaft...A stress point will be created where SOLID meets HOLLOW...Joe's right that the epoxy is more flexible than the graphite but it's not a matter of one VS the other, [...]
That’s easily fixed with a tiny piece of tape over the end of the shaft, or a bit of cotton wool in it. And some shafts are sealed at the end anyway or have just a pinhole. Personally I don’t see how you could get so much epoxy into the tip of a graphite shaft that you could fill up 1/4" of it solid, let alone enough to get anywhere near the hosel! -joseph
Response:
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – If you had it reshafted (or did it yourself) with a graphite shaft, you should probably be careful about the amount of epoxy you use. I’ve not yet seen it happen, but when I started building clubs, I was warned that using enough epoxy to cause it to "plug" the end of a graphite shaft will concentrate forces just above this particular point during impact, and the shaft is more likely to break. I’m not the most experienced clubmaker in the world, but that sounds bogus to me, because as far as I know, shafting epoxy is more flexible than the graphite shaft itself. -joseph As I said, I can’t verify it, but that’s what I was told in Golfsmith’s clubmaking class, and I’ve seen it in articles. Doesn’t sound right to me either, but that’s what I’ve been told.
You were told right…I’m not sure Joe understands you tho… When epoxy fills up the inside of the shaft it effectively makes the area it fills a SOLID rather than a HOLLOW shaft…A stress point will be created where SOLID meets HOLLOW…Joe’s right that the epoxy is more flexible than the graphite but it’s not a matter of one VS the other, in this case it ADDS to the graphites stiffness below the hollow section. I hope that’s not to difficult to picture…the juncture where SOLID meets HOLLOW is where a shaft will snap if it’s going to. ]]]Z[[[
Response:
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – If you had it reshafted (or did it yourself) with a graphite shaft, you should probably be careful about the amount of epoxy you use. I’ve not yet seen it happen, but when I started building clubs, I was warned that using enough epoxy to cause it to "plug" the end of a graphite shaft will concentrate forces just above this particular point during impact, and the shaft is more likely to break. As I said, I can’t verify this, as I’ve never seen it happen, but that’s what I’ve been told. I’m not the most experienced clubmaker in the world, but that sounds bogus to me, because as far as I know, shafting epoxy is more flexible than the graphite shaft itself. -joseph
As I said, I can’t verify it, but that’s what I was told in Golfsmith’s clubmaking class, and I’ve seen it in articles. Doesn’t sound right to me either, but that’s what I’ve been told.
Response:
How did you get a BBB lite in it? That must have been a spare that was pulled from some other customer’s BBB?
Exactly right. In fact, when I talked to the guy about reshafting it again, he mentioned he had another BBB shaft he could put in it. I don’t want to take that chance again, though. Feel free to put another graphite shaft in it, but use one with a sturdy tip. Most "low torque" graphite shafts fit that description. I don’t know if I’d use an ultralight shaft though. The bore-through design puts a lot of stress on the tip.
Does the Graffaloy Prolite fit that description? I understand a lot of people reshaft their GBBs and BBBs with Graffaloys. I’m hopeful that it will work as well with the Warbird head. Did the guy who installed the first graphite shaft in it bevel the bore for you? I haven’t reshafted a Callaway head myself, but I wonder if the heads intended for graphite shafts might have a different treatment where the shaft enters the head.
I’ve heard they are slightly different, but I don’t know any details about what the guy did when he reshafted it. I thought it would hold up, but I guess those BBB shafts are garbage. At least, that’s what I am hoping. This guy is a pretty experienced clubmaker – I’ll talk to him some more before having the work done. I’d hate to be going through this again in a year or so. I’d like to make sure the shaft is going to stay on before spending that kind of money. Chris – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – -joseph Okay, just my particular game of golf. Yesterday, at approximately 6:30 pm, the head of my Callaway Warbird 3+ wood snapped off the shaft after striking a magnificent ball at the driving range. The head flew out into the range, coming to a rest about 75 yards away. The nice man in the clubhouse went out in the ball picker-upper to get it for me. I plan on resurrecting it. This club was originally a steel shaft (M- 10) that I had reshafted about a year ago with a BBB lite shaft. I’m planning on trying a Graffaloy Prolite in it now – am I just setting myself up for disaster again? I’d hate to bust this shaft since it’s so expensive – can any clubmakers out there tell me if the shaft can handle a Warbird 3+ head?
Before you buy.
Response:
You can try an Innovative shaft – they have a line made specifically for bore through.(BBB/GBB). They are a really good shaft and you can expect to pay a decent dollar for one – a little more than Graffaloy, IIRC. David — RSG Roll Call http://u1.netgate.net/~kirby34/rsg/sneddond.htm – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Okay, just my particular game of golf. Yesterday, at approximately 6:30 pm, the head of my Callaway Warbird 3+ wood snapped off the shaft after striking a magnificent ball at the driving range. The head flew out into the range, coming to a rest about 75 yards away. The nice man in the clubhouse went out in the ball picker-upper to get it for me. I plan on resurrecting it. This club was originally a steel shaft (M- 10) that I had reshafted about a year ago with a BBB lite shaft. I’m planning on trying a Graffaloy Prolite in it now – am I just setting myself up for disaster again? I’d hate to bust this shaft since it’s so expensive – can any clubmakers out there tell me if the shaft can handle a Warbird 3+ head? Chris Before you buy.
Response:
Hello, You may want to check if the shaft you broke is under warranty. A lot of shafts are guaranteed not to break. www.egolfconnection.com – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – How did you get a BBB lite in it? That must have been a spare that was pulled from some other customer’s BBB? Feel free to put another graphite shaft in it, but use one with a sturdy tip. Most "low torque" graphite shafts fit that description. I don’t know if I’d use an ultralight shaft though. The bore-through design puts a lot of stress on the tip. Did the guy who installed the first graphite shaft in it bevel the bore for you? I haven’t reshafted a Callaway head myself, but I wonder if the heads intended for graphite shafts might have a different treatment where the shaft enters the head. -joseph Okay, just my particular game of golf. Yesterday, at approximately 6:30 pm, the head of my Callaway Warbird 3+ wood snapped off the shaft after striking a magnificent ball at the driving range. The head flew out into the range, coming to a rest about 75 yards away. The nice man in the clubhouse went out in the ball picker-upper to get it for me. I plan on resurrecting it. This club was originally a steel shaft (M- 10) that I had reshafted about a year ago with a BBB lite shaft. I’m planning on trying a Graffaloy Prolite in it now – am I just setting myself up for disaster again? I’d hate to bust this shaft since it’s so expensive – can any clubmakers out there tell me if the shaft can handle a Warbird 3+ head?
Response:
If you had it reshafted (or did it yourself) with a graphite shaft, you should probably be careful about the amount of epoxy you use. I’ve not yet seen it happen, but when I started building clubs, I was warned that using enough epoxy to cause it to "plug" the end of a graphite shaft will concentrate forces just above this particular point during impact, and the shaft is more likely to break. As I said, I can’t verify this, as I’ve never seen it happen, but that’s what I’ve been told.
I’m not the most experienced clubmaker in the world, but that sounds bogus to me, because as far as I know, shafting epoxy is more flexible than the graphite shaft itself. -joseph
Response:
How did you get a BBB lite in it? That must have been a spare that was pulled from some other customer’s BBB? Feel free to put another graphite shaft in it, but use one with a sturdy tip. Most "low torque" graphite shafts fit that description. I don’t know if I’d use an ultralight shaft though. The bore-through design puts a lot of stress on the tip. Did the guy who installed the first graphite shaft in it bevel the bore for you? I haven’t reshafted a Callaway head myself, but I wonder if the heads intended for graphite shafts might have a different treatment where the shaft enters the head. -joseph – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Okay, just my particular game of golf. Yesterday, at approximately 6:30 pm, the head of my Callaway Warbird 3+ wood snapped off the shaft after striking a magnificent ball at the driving range. The head flew out into the range, coming to a rest about 75 yards away. The nice man in the clubhouse went out in the ball picker-upper to get it for me. I plan on resurrecting it. This club was originally a steel shaft (M- 10) that I had reshafted about a year ago with a BBB lite shaft. I’m planning on trying a Graffaloy Prolite in it now – am I just setting myself up for disaster again? I’d hate to bust this shaft since it’s so expensive – can any clubmakers out there tell me if the shaft can handle a Warbird 3+ head?
Response:
Okay, just my particular game of golf. Yesterday, at approximately 6:30 pm, the head of my Callaway Warbird 3+ wood snapped off the shaft after striking a magnificent ball at the driving range. The head flew out into the range, coming to a rest about 75 yards away. The nice man in the clubhouse went out in the ball picker-upper to get it for me. I plan on resurrecting it. This club was originally a steel shaft (M- 10) that I had reshafted about a year ago with a BBB lite shaft. I’m planning on trying a Graffaloy Prolite in it now – am I just setting myself up for disaster again? I’d hate to bust this shaft since it’s so expensive – can any clubmakers out there tell me if the shaft can handle a Warbird 3+ head? Chris Before you buy.
Response:
If you had it reshafted (or did it yourself) with a graphite shaft, you should probably be careful about the amount of epoxy you use. I’ve not yet seen it happen, but when I started building clubs, I was warned that using enough epoxy to cause it to "plug" the end of a graphite shaft will concentrate forces just above this particular point during impact, and the shaft is more likely to break. As I said, I can’t verify this, as I’ve never seen it happen, but that’s what I’ve been told. If this doesn’t apply to your particular situation ……. never mind. May your next round be your best round. Dave Holo RSG Roll Call: http://u1.netgate.net/~kirby34/rsg/holod.htm – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Okay, just my particular game of golf. Yesterday, at approximately 6:30 pm, the head of my Callaway Warbird 3+ wood snapped off the shaft after striking a magnificent ball at the driving range. The head flew out into the range, coming to a rest about 75 yards away. The nice man in the clubhouse went out in the ball picker-upper to get it for me. I plan on resurrecting it. This club was originally a steel shaft (M- 10) that I had reshafted about a year ago with a BBB lite shaft. I’m planning on trying a Graffaloy Prolite in it now – am I just setting myself up for disaster again? I’d hate to bust this shaft since it’s so expensive – can any clubmakers out there tell me if the shaft can handle a Warbird 3+ head? Chris Before you buy.